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› Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
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Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How? (Read 375 times)
SALB
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #15 -
11/15/12 at 16:13:39
Would weather caulk like they use for windows and gutters work?
I know its rated to take UV and usually works with plastic.
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rfw2003
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Yantis, TX
Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #16 -
11/15/12 at 16:34:10
verslagen1 wrote
on 11/15/12 at 15:16:11:
well don't coat the wires with that epoxy, I think most are conductive.
Since when verslagen? Most epoxies is basically just a plastic. Epoxies have been used for years for potting electronics to seal them from moisture and vibration.
I have used most kinds of off the shelf 2 part epoxies for sealing electronics through the years without any issues at all. Remember we are talking about epoxy and not something like JB weld or that steel putty or any metallic containing adhesives. Just a plain ordinary clear UV resistant epoxy.
R.F.
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1996 Savage, Corbin Seat, K&N filter, Slip Streamer Enterprise II windshield, LED bullet signals, Cat's eye LED tail light Ryca reverse cone long muffler
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verslagen1
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #17 -
11/15/12 at 17:08:54
rfw2003 wrote
on 11/15/12 at 16:34:10:
verslagen1 wrote
on 11/15/12 at 15:16:11:
well don't coat the wires with that epoxy, I think most are conductive.
Since when verslagen? Most epoxies is basically just a plastic. Epoxies have been used for years for potting electronics to seal them from moisture and vibration.
I have used most kinds of off the shelf 2 part epoxies for sealing electronics through the years without any issues at all. Remember we are talking about epoxy and not something like JB weld or that steel putty or any metallic containing adhesives. Just a plain ordinary clear UV resistant epoxy.
R.F.
I've have a bad experience, so I'm overly cautious about such things.
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Gyrobob
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #18 -
11/15/12 at 17:34:28
T-88 aircraft epoxy is really tough stuff, sticks to just about any roughened surface, and never gets brittle (stays flexible). I've used it for years and have never seen it ever get brittle or deteriorate at all. I used it on the Double RYCA build, and I have used it in many places on the gyrocopters I build.
-- It sets up slowly.
--- The good news is you have a lot of time to phart around with the joint.
--- The bad news is you'd better not be in a hurry. It takes a few hours to get firm, and a day to get hard and usable. It keeps getting stronger for a few more days.
-- It won't shrink.
-- It will hold up to temporary gas spills, but it is not suitable for use on gas tanks or other situations that have continual exposure to gas.
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/T-88-c27.htm
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Serowbot
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #19 -
11/15/12 at 17:37:01
I set about 6ft of my wiring harness on fire,.. when one prong of an LED bulb vibrated loose and contacted a bad thing...
...(I was sitting at a traffic light and noticed a funny smell)... (then, smoke billowing from under my seat)...
...
...
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Ludicrous Speed !... ...
...
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Digger
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #20 -
11/15/12 at 18:47:52
SALB wrote
on 11/15/12 at 16:13:39:
Would weather caulk like they use for windows and gutters work?
I know its rated to take UV and usually works with plastic.
SA,
That's a possibility!
Thanks!
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Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
www.astronautbiker.com
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Digger
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Ya gotta be tough to
ride singles!
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #21 -
11/15/12 at 18:49:02
Gyrobob wrote
on 11/15/12 at 17:34:28:
T-88 aircraft epoxy is really tough stuff, sticks to just about any roughened surface, and never gets brittle (stays flexible). I've used it for years and have never seen it ever get brittle or deteriorate at all. I used it on the Double RYCA build, and I have used it in many places on the gyrocopters I build.
-- It sets up slowly.
--- The good news is you have a lot of time to phart around with the joint.
--- The bad news is you'd better not be in a hurry. It takes a few hours to get firm, and a day to get hard and usable. It keeps getting stronger for a few more days.
-- It won't shrink.
-- It will hold up to temporary gas spills, but it is not suitable for use on gas tanks or other situations that have continual exposure to gas.
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/T-88-c27.htm
Gy,
Now we're cookin' with gas!
I can get this stuff locally, too. Will think on it! Looks like it has problems with UV resistance, however.
Back to top
Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
www.astronautbiker.com
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rfw2003
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Posts: 1108
Yantis, TX
Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #22 -
11/15/12 at 21:08:01
Most of the epoxies I tend to fall back to are the air hardening type used for fiber glassing. The 2 main places I buy online are from fiberglast.com and
http://www.uscomposites.com/
Just make sure you get the type that is specified for air hardening and not layering or it will never harden up on you. The layering epoxies are intended for use in vacuum bagging type techniques.
A google search that will help you out greatly is to search for a potting epoxy. You will come up with lots of options out there. Ranging from Urethane based systems to real epoxy systems that will cure from a gel like texture to a rock hard like texture. The biggest benefit of the softer gel cured ones is that it's easier to remove the potting from your electronics should you ever have to service them, where as if you use the hard cure epoxies your better off just doing a total rebuild should something fail.
I have potted with epoxies this using the standard fiber glassing epoxies on projects from low voltage/low current all the way up to high voltage/high current projects and have had no shorts in the potted areas. In a pinch I have also used the exterior grade 2 part epoxies from the local hobby shops and home supply stores such as Lowe's and Home depot and have had similar results. Just make sure you use the epoxy and not the polyester resins for doing your potting. While I'm fairly sure the polyester resins will work I've just never used them and can't vouch for how they may react with plastics. If you do the search for potting epoxies you will come across alot of them that are certified for use by NASA which should tell you something right there on how well epoxies do for insulating and protecting electronic circuits in the most extreme of circumstances.
R.F.
Back to top
1996 Savage, Corbin Seat, K&N filter, Slip Streamer Enterprise II windshield, LED bullet signals, Cat's eye LED tail light Ryca reverse cone long muffler
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Serowbot
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OK.... so what's the
speed of dark?
Posts: 28651
Tucson Az
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #23 -
11/15/12 at 21:47:58
Don't ya' love that smell of epoxy schmelting in the morning?...
...
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Ludicrous Speed !... ...
...
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Cavi Mike
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #24 -
11/16/12 at 01:54:47
So many options. Easily removable? Rubber cement. Semi-permanent? Caulk or RTV. Permanent? Liquid Nails, Epoxy, hobby cement - the list is almost endless.
P.S.
Liquid Nails is slightly flexible when dry so if there needs to be some give that won't rip free like RTV or caulk or every other silicone based sealant, that would be a good choice.
Back to top
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Gyrobob
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #25 -
11/16/12 at 06:21:36
Digger wrote
on 11/15/12 at 18:49:02:
Gyrobob wrote
on 11/15/12 at 17:34:28:
T-88 aircraft epoxy is really tough stuff, sticks to just about any roughened surface, and never gets brittle (stays flexible). I've used it for years and have never seen it ever get brittle or deteriorate at all. I used it on the Double RYCA build, and I have used it in many places on the gyrocopters I build.
-- It sets up slowly.
--- The good news is you have a lot of time to phart around with the joint.
--- The bad news is you'd better not be in a hurry. It takes a few hours to get firm, and a day to get hard and usable. It keeps getting stronger for a few more days.
-- It won't shrink.
-- It will hold up to temporary gas spills, but it is not suitable for use on gas tanks or other situations that have continual exposure to gas.
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/T-88-c27.htm
Gy,
Now we're cookin' with gas!
I can get this stuff locally, too. Will think on it! Looks like it has problems with UV resistance, however.
UV would be an issue if the whole joint were exposed. 95% of your joint is hidden. If you are concerned about that last 5%, put a thin layer of touchup paint, or black RTV, or even nail polish over it.
Back to top
If you think there's good in everyone, you haven't met everyone.
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justin_o_guy2
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What happened?
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #26 -
11/16/12 at 07:05:28
If weight is no matter, or if you could slip another piece of pipe inside to fill most of the void, then drill a hole on each end & pump it full of silicone.
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The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke.
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Digger
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2005 No Login
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Ya gotta be tough to
ride singles!
Posts: 1604
Colorado Springs, CO
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Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #27 -
11/16/12 at 08:15:09
rfw2003 wrote
on 11/15/12 at 21:08:01:
Most of the epoxies I tend to fall back to are the air hardening type used for fiber glassing. The 2 main places I buy online are from fiberglast.com and
http://www.uscomposites.com/
Just make sure you get the type that is specified for air hardening and not layering or it will never harden up on you. The layering epoxies are intended for use in vacuum bagging type techniques.
A google search that will help you out greatly is to search for a potting epoxy. You will come up with lots of options out there. Ranging from Urethane based systems to real epoxy systems that will cure from a gel like texture to a rock hard like texture. The biggest benefit of the softer gel cured ones is that it's easier to remove the potting from your electronics should you ever have to service them, where as if you use the hard cure epoxies your better off just doing a total rebuild should something fail.
I have potted with epoxies this using the standard fiber glassing epoxies on projects from low voltage/low current all the way up to high voltage/high current projects and have had no shorts in the potted areas. In a pinch I have also used the exterior grade 2 part epoxies from the local hobby shops and home supply stores such as Lowe's and Home depot and have had similar results. Just make sure you use the epoxy and not the polyester resins for doing your potting. While I'm fairly sure the polyester resins will work I've just never used them and can't vouch for how they may react with plastics. If you do the search for potting epoxies you will come across alot of them that are certified for use by NASA which should tell you something right there on how well epoxies do for insulating and protecting electronic circuits in the most extreme of circumstances.
R.F.
rf,
Good stuff....thanks!
Back to top
Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
www.astronautbiker.com
IP Logged
Digger
Serious Thumper
2005 No Login
Offline
Ya gotta be tough to
ride singles!
Posts: 1604
Colorado Springs, CO
Gender:
Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #28 -
11/16/12 at 08:17:12
Cavi Mike wrote
on 11/16/12 at 01:54:47:
So many options. Easily removable? Rubber cement. Semi-permanent? Caulk or RTV. Permanent? Liquid Nails, Epoxy, hobby cement - the list is almost endless.
P.S.
Liquid Nails is slightly flexible when dry so if there needs to be some give that won't rip free like RTV or caulk or every other silicone based sealant, that would be a good choice.
Thanks, Cavi.
I'm thinkin' about going with Marine Goop, thinned with some toluene (if I can find it). I've already got the Marine Goop.....
Back to top
Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
www.astronautbiker.com
IP Logged
Digger
Serious Thumper
2005 No Login
Offline
Ya gotta be tough to
ride singles!
Posts: 1604
Colorado Springs, CO
Gender:
Re: Need To Weatherproof An LED Mount - But How?
Reply #29 -
11/16/12 at 08:18:02
Gyrobob wrote
on 11/16/12 at 06:21:36:
Digger wrote
on 11/15/12 at 18:49:02:
Gyrobob wrote
on 11/15/12 at 17:34:28:
T-88 aircraft epoxy is really tough stuff, sticks to just about any roughened surface, and never gets brittle (stays flexible). I've used it for years and have never seen it ever get brittle or deteriorate at all. I used it on the Double RYCA build, and I have used it in many places on the gyrocopters I build.
-- It sets up slowly.
--- The good news is you have a lot of time to phart around with the joint.
--- The bad news is you'd better not be in a hurry. It takes a few hours to get firm, and a day to get hard and usable. It keeps getting stronger for a few more days.
-- It won't shrink.
-- It will hold up to temporary gas spills, but it is not suitable for use on gas tanks or other situations that have continual exposure to gas.
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/T-88-c27.htm
Gy,
Now we're cookin' with gas!
I can get this stuff locally, too. Will think on it! Looks like it has problems with UV resistance, however.
UV would be an issue if the whole joint were exposed. 95% of your joint is hidden. If you are concerned about that last 5%, put a thin layer of touchup paint, or black RTV, or even nail polish over it.
Great point....you are absolutely right!
Back to top
Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
www.astronautbiker.com
IP Logged
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