My 2007 (15,700mi on it) has developed a shake in the front end at 63mphish... It had it when I purchased the bike in May so I thought it was the tires (they were pretty rough, so I had them replaced larger than stock) the dealer said it wasnt the tires it was something to do with the bearings I think. They tightened them?or something- & the feeling like I was behind a semi(even when alone on the road)was gone.
The shake is back! How can I fix this myself??? I've but 4000 miles (half on a 2000 mi trip to NY) on it since they did what ever they did. Any help would be apprecieated.

What kind of shake?

Why larger than stock tires?

I would also ask, why larger than stock front tyre? what sort of balance weights were used when the tyre was changed? Lead wrapped round a spoke, or stick to the rim type, or something put in the tube?

Right around 60mph seems to be the magic number for an off-balance wheel shudder no matter what vehicle you're driving so make sure your wheels are true and balanced first. If you've lost a wheel weight, that will be a cause for this.

If it's a tank-slapper shake (bars feel like they're twisting back-n-forth and feels like you're gonna get thrown from the bike) that could be a million things but it usually only happens on bikes with low rake angles like sport-bikes or cafe-racers with lowered front ends and raised rears so I'm doubting it's this.

Question:

Do your handle bars sit square to the bike when you are running at speed (with your hands off the grips but hovering right over them).

Reason for this question is that I too have had the shudders at 65-70 mph which were caused by the back tire being out of alignment.  I realized it when I noted the bars weren't square to the bike (front tire was aligning to the rear tire as road forces will always force it to do and the rear tire was off kilter).

To straighten the front required me to re-align the rear tire using the adjustment marks.

I agree with the "common knowledge" that the tick marks on the swing arm are not accurate, but once you know how far your bike's offset is they are good tools after that.

A correctly adjusted rear tire results in the ability to take your hands off the handle bars and have the bike track straight without you having to lean your body to make it work.  

The handle bars should be square to the body of the bike.

Sounds like an oscillation feedback loop to me.   It has to do with the front end geometry (rake, caster, etc.) and speed.  Some bikes are worse than others.   I think the Savage front end design is pretty stable, or otherwise there would be a lot more complaints on here.   I've had bikes where you couldn't let go of the handlebars at highway speeds (your hands dampen the oscillations).  One thing that comes to mind is the steering column bearings, and/or cracks either in the frame or gussets around that area.   Also someone asked if the bike has ever been in a wreck, especially running into something.   This could definitely tweak the geometry.

PS: whatever the guy @ the dealer did it only took him about 15min. Which equals 45 min. for me lol

I gotta see if I can find the invoice... but Im pretty sure it just had a labor charge, no details