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› another "no start" thread...
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another "no start" thread... (Read 304 times)
chad levert
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #15 -
10/09/12 at 13:55:11
clicking sound? sounds like a bad solenoid
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Charon
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #16 -
10/09/12 at 19:44:56
The "clicking" does indeed come from the solenoid, but not because it is bad. When the start button is pressed, power is supplied (after a short delay from the decomp system) to the starter solenoid (which is really a relay switch). This "clicks" as it pulls in to supply power to the starter. The weak battery cannot deliver enough current and its voltage drops. The low voltage causes the solenoid to drop out, which you hear as another click. Now the starter is disconnected, the battery voltage rises, and the solenoid clicks again. The cycle repeats until you give up, or the battery does.
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Eschew obfuscation.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #17 -
10/09/12 at 19:46:01
Charon wrote
on 10/09/12 at 19:44:56:
The "clicking" does indeed come from the solenoid, but not because it is bad. When the start button is pressed, power is supplied (after a short delay from the decomp system) to the starter solenoid (which is really a relay switch). This "clicks" as it pulls in to supply power to the starter. The weak battery cannot deliver enough current and its voltage drops. The low voltage causes the solenoid to drop out, which you hear as another click. Now the starter is disconnected, the battery voltage rises, and the solenoid clicks again. The cycle repeats until you give up, or the battery does.
Keee Rekkt..
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The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke.
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javajunkie
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #18 -
10/10/12 at 03:40:16
@HondaLavis, I'm gonna go with the spec AGM and keep the box...for now anyway
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Dave
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #19 -
10/10/12 at 09:46:13
justin_o_guy2 wrote
on 10/09/12 at 19:46:01:
Charon wrote
on 10/09/12 at 19:44:56:
The "clicking" does indeed come from the solenoid, but not because it is bad. When the start button is pressed, power is supplied (after a short delay from the decomp system) to the starter solenoid (which is really a relay switch). This "clicks" as it pulls in to supply power to the starter. The weak battery cannot deliver enough current and its voltage drops. The low voltage causes the solenoid to drop out, which you hear as another click. Now the starter is disconnected, the battery voltage rises, and the solenoid clicks again. The cycle repeats until you give up, or the battery does.
Keee Rekkt..
+1......Everything the OP has posted looks like the battery is the culprit and it is time for a new battery. If you want to test something, you could attach the existing battery to a good battery as a jumper and see if the bike starts and runs normally. Jumping to the starter won't tell you if the solenoid and safety switches are working - so you would have to connect to the existing battery with some decent sized wires.....normal jumper cables are too big to get attached to the battery and wires.
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javajunkie
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #20 -
10/14/12 at 03:45:17
New AGM battery in and now I get a single click.. I'm going to test to see if the starter is working then the solenoid after I get home from work... Thanks for the valuable info!!!
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #21 -
10/14/12 at 06:43:04
IDK if you are supposed to charge them before use.
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HondaLavis
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #22 -
10/14/12 at 10:57:43
Abosrbed Glass Mat batteries come pre-charged. It wouldn't hurt anything to throw it on a charger, but one of the major advantages of an AGM is that it retains it's charges much better than traditional lead-acid batteries. Conduct a voltage check to be thorough. Your starter and solenoid worked before; that would leave the battery as the biggest suspect - despite it being new - since it was the most recent change.
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"When you're good, one is all you need."
I guess that means I'm no good anymore; I've got 4 more cylinders! '08 Yamaha FJR1300 and still '01 Savage
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Charon
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #23 -
10/14/12 at 16:48:54
You should ALWAYS charge a new battery before you install it. AGM batteries may hold a charge longer, but they are still lead-acid batteries and you should charge them before you install them. Some claim that initial charge is the most important charge the battery ever gets, and claim that without it the battery will never fully charge, and will not last as long.
AGM and any other pre-charged batteries are NOT put on a charger and carefully watched before they are shipped. They are assembled with the chemicals of a fairly-fully charged battery and shipped out. Odds are they are no more than 3/4 charged when they leave the assembly plant. The manufacturers figure all the new battery has to do is start whatever vehicle in which it is installed, and the vehicle's charging system will take care of the rest.
AGM batteries are sold as "pre-charged," but all other lead-acid batteries are also pre-charged. When you buy an inexpensive flooded-cell battery, and add the acid, the battery will have at least a half-charge, and likely more. That's because it was assembled with the proper chemicals on its plates to have an initial charge.
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«
Last Edit: 10/14/12 at 20:07:24 by Charon
»
Eschew obfuscation.
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javajunkie
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Re: another "no start" thread...
Reply #24 -
10/21/12 at 20:03:58
Charged the new battery, voltage of 12.78... Put it back in the bike and still get the same click.
Pulled the starter to test it, I just ran wires from the battery to the starter...the pos wire started to glow, I don't know if that has anything to do with it... I am going to pull the side cover back off just to see if anything is binding up
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