Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 09/22/12 at 08:10:46:


Oldfeller,
same question...and based on the picture I posted on page 1 of my lever and the marks, I read this and think my lever is sorta resting on the high side. Note the top image is at rest, but s noted, is with light pressure to take out the slack.

Overall it shifts fine and I don't feel any slippage or anything or hear anything to indicate it is not right, but just overly cautious because I don't want to have something rubbing and potentially setting me up for an issue. I had it services at 600 miles and the tech said he adjusted the handle for free play and didn't indicate anything was out of whack.

Would it be making any noises or providing any physical characteristics that I could pick up on if it were not adjusted properly?  Note: I have never been inside the tranny and don't intend to unless it is mission critical.

Thanks!

misterbbq wrote on 09/22/12 at 07:00:39:


I've yet to see anyone prove why changing a multi-grade oil when the engine is hot is better than when cold - or even a single grade.

Multi-grade oils thin out as they cool off so they flow better during cold starts - less wear on the top of the engine. Also, the oil has fully drained from the top of the motor while it was cooling off, ensuring you don't contaminate your fresh oil with the crap that's been suspended in the new oil.

I always drain mine cold.

I change mine cold. It's thinner when it's cold.

SaVaGeEaRL wrote on 09/22/12 at 19:10:15:


No it isn't.   Those numbers in the oil weight, like 10w40 are defined by the SAE tests on how the oil pours at low and high temperatures.  

Translated, they say the oil does pour quicker hot than cold.

I have done the freezer test on T-6 and while it doesn't change nearly as much as old dino oils did, but it is a little bit thicker pouring at -10 degrees F than it is at room temperature.  The temp/viscosity change is there for full synthetic T-6, just not nearly as much as the old dino 10w40 oils used to have.

Do it yourself if you want to .... we all got us a freezer at home and we can time how long it takes to pour out a fixed amount like a test tube full.

Now, at room temperature vs engine warm, the drain rate difference is still there, but not nearly as pronounced.

And yes, you can drain your oil successfully at room temperature.  The few extra seconds it takes to drain isn't so much time as to be all that noticeable.  Your drip time to zero drops will be greater though.

I think the old saw about "drain your oil hot" came from dino oils back in the age of sludge, when you wanted to melt as much of the sludge as much as you could so more of it could get out of the little drain hole and into the drain pan.

Modern oils don't form sludge (at least my T-6 has never formed any).

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Here is some visual data on oil thickening at lower temperatures and room temperature.

One other point is that when the oil sits for a while any particulate matter suspended in it settles out. A cold engine will have had time for any particles of metal, soot, or silica (sand) to settle to the bottom of the sump, where it might remain when the cold oil is drained. If the engine has been recently run, the oil has been "stirred up" and most of the particulates will not have had time to settle out. True, the filter is supposed to catch this stuff, and the oil additive package is supposed to keep particles in suspension, but neither is always 100% effective.