swap it out  


but really I don't know  

I found this upgrade for the DR650......it would be great if the part would work in our bikes as well.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/suzuki-dr650/250-watt-stator/


I checked the parts list for a 2007 DR650 and LS650 and the part numbers for the rotor and stator are different......but that doesn't prove that the parts are not interchangeable.

I think I know why the DR and the LS have different part numbers - The DR has the ignition charge winding in the stator because they're kick-start and don't require a battery. The LS ignition runs off the battery. You could prolly run the DR stator in the LS but not vice-versa.

Here is an article that explains how to rewind your stator......but it is written for the DR650 and not clear if this is an upgrade or just a rebuild.  Does more windings mean more amperage....or more voltage......or both?  For every 10% increase in windings do you get more voltage....or more amps?  At some point you will run out of room to wind unless you use smaller wire......then you run the risk of having wire that is too small.

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorrewind.htm

Dave wrote on 09/19/12 at 06:44:05:


More windings say more voltage. Thicker wire means more amperage.
I just inspected a destroyed stator and made following measurements.
The stator is wound with 1mm enamelled copper wire, this equals AWG 18 quite good (=1.0236mm) and each of the "teeth" has 45 windings.

Assuming you want more electrical power for additional load (heated grips and jacket) you best should go both ways: Thicker wire and some more windings. As much as you can get on.

But the space for the windings is very limited. AWG 17 may work but then it will be an artwork to get on 45 windings on all of the "teeth". Each layer will then carry only 11 windings instead of 13 as before.
Even with the economiest and perfect rewinding work (which is not easy and means some good training in that matter) you will fill a bit more than four layers (before: 3 1/2 layers) and each layer is thicker. I assume, there's very little or at least no space for more windings then.

Taking the same wire (AWG18) and putting on more windings may work, but the effort could be only marginal because you do two things at one time: Adding more ohmic losses (longer wire) and adding some tenth of a Volt under load. Considering all effects, that could be the way one should try

The stator is wound in "Y" pattern, so a change to a "Delta" pattern does not make sense at all, because you would need much more rpm to get the same voltage. Remember old techniques for three-phase electric motors. They sometimes have  a switch to start with "Y"-pattern (low rpm, more thrust) and then to switch to "Delta" for high rpm in use.

Another way (very theoretical!) could be the permanent magnets in the rotor. There are only 12 and they do not have much power.
Changing that system to 24 magnets N52 and make the gap between stator and rotor as small as possible. But... no chance without further research and a garage full of finest machinery.

My opinion on that subject at all: Save your electric power as much as you can (led's instead of bulbs) and savingful use of heated gear...

Quote:



BRILLIANT!!!!!    

arteacher wrote on 09/20/12 at 08:56:01:


No thanks.  There's not enough room on this bike as it is without loading on more heavy bulky stuff.

I think I'll concentrate on using the least amount of power possible for each function:
-- HID headlight  (35 watts instead of 60 or so for the stock H4)
-- LED running light (maybe 5 or 10 watts) instead of the headlight during the day
-- LED everything else
-- Keep the vest and handgrips on low settings mostly.