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Oil changing question (Read 979 times)
Oldfeller--FSO
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #60 - 09/08/12 at 14:37:31
 

Oh, Bill -- if this were true I'd have been trimming all your stuff for years now instead of playing along with you.

Sadly, I don't see any good party or canidate this year, so I will vote for the party that has more of a history of DOING some of what they promise to do.

(problem is I can't seem to remember any party who actually did that in the last 20 years or so    Undecided )

Grin

If Uno can find some data to back up his wild statements on "removing manufacturers deposits" then he can certainly plop it down for Charon to rip apart.   I always found that exercise to be worthwhile as it made me think better next time.   Dig a little harder,   do a little better.


=================


Perhaps Bill and Uno can go find us some other oils to add to our approved oil list?  

That would be useful.

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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #61 - 09/08/12 at 15:10:15
 
Klotz,Amsoil,Mobil 1, all have premium motorcycle oil,Theres at least 30 more premium motorcycle oils.Put than on your list.Charon wants everyone to proved something,He has never proved anything or disapproved anything.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #62 - 09/08/12 at 15:35:23
 
 
Bill, we have a $12 per quart oil price ceiling which takes out all your golden foil wrapped over priced oils.

If you had been paying attention, you would know that the MA2 standards change took out almost all of the high priced spreads, they COMPLIED and became useless to us Savagers.   Yup, even Royal Purple.  

Amisol is still useful, but it is simply too expensive.

Your Klotz motorcycle bottles joined the useless MA2 crew, with the MX motocross Klotz being the only one still found to be useful.   But at $14.95 a quart (up to $27 a quart in some places according to Bill) the Klotz motocross  isn't listed as it is too too expensive.

So far, we haven't found much out there in premium motorcycle oil land.

One super duper oil that rang true on its specs & data and is reasonably priced through Amazon by the case ($10 a quart on sale, $11 normal) is Redline Motorcycle, the new sexy red headed oil.   Redline is on the list as it meets all the criteria.

(2x overkill on the ZDDP too, which is 2,500 ppm,    Cheesy   1,000 ppm better than the very best Klotz MX oil)

So yes, we will list a premium plus oil if it meets the Recommended Listing criteria.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #63 - 09/08/12 at 15:36:40
 
bill67 wrote on 09/08/12 at 15:10:15:
Klotz,Amsoil,Mobil 1, all have premium motorcycle oil,Theres at least 30 more premium motorcycle oils.Put than on your list.Charon wants everyone to proved something,He has never proved anything or disapproved anything.

My bike never ran better and stronger than since I switched to T6. It has almost 18,000 miles on it and runs like a stuck pig. Before I had "dedicated" Motorcycle oils from Valvoline, Lucas and Mobil1. My bike ran good with those, but the engine never ran as smooth and powerful as it does now with T6. You'd assume that with that mileage now it should be getting weaker and consume more oil and stuff, but the opposite is the case. The valves train on my bike is darn near as quiet as if it had hydraulic lifters. And that even though I put the hammer down a lot with high rpm. If T6 wasn't good for that motor at all, I should have blown it to pieces some several thousand miles ago. There is a difference between abusing a motor and driving it hard. Even now with 5W-40 T6, the bike uses approximately a 1/4 pint of oil in about 1,500 miles. It may be a little more in 100+ degree heat in summer when flogging it down the superslab. Again, if T6 would be no good for that motor when driven like that, it should be dead by now. BTW I run this stuff for more than 5,000 miles now and have checked the valve clearance twice in the meantime and it was still at 0.004 all the way around. So what should be wrong with using T6???
I don't give a rat's behind whether T6 is called a "Motorcycle Oil" or not, I just care for what it does, period.  My bike is living proof that T6 works a charm in the Savage, and I am not the only one.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #64 - 09/08/12 at 15:45:40
 
It your bike run what you want,I will run the best in mine.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #65 - 09/08/12 at 15:54:13
 
bill67 wrote on 09/08/12 at 15:45:40:
It your bike run what you want,I will run the best in mine.

There you go, finally. Grin
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #66 - 09/08/12 at 16:05:50
 
I've never told any one what to run,I just tell you I run the best not the cheapest.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #67 - 09/08/12 at 16:22:39
 
bill67 wrote on 09/08/12 at 16:05:50:
I've never told any one what to run,I just tell you I run the best not the cheapest.

I'm glad for you.  Smiley
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #68 - 09/08/12 at 16:41:42
 

Just went through Uno's Amisol pdf -- interesting stuff with only one flaw, it is old data and all the oils in it have been reformulated in the last few months, so all the rankings are sorta moot right now.

And yes, I agree with Charon that the tests were selected  to make Amisol look "maximum good" (along with the oils that were selected to be tested).   I especially liked the fact they didn't bother to test synthetics against synthetics but threw in a bunch of dino's for the fun of it.

Wink


Here is another example of Amisol's comparison of their full synthetic against the old Rotella T to make Amisol look good.    What I found interesting is that all the oils stayed in grade and Amisol had to fuel dilute them by 2% and then run the shear test TWICE  to get the Rotella to go down to the edge of grade.

I bring the point up because (according to BITOG) the new MA2 standard allows the new MA2 rated bike oils to go out of grade with only ONE test run and NO fuel dilution.

(this sucks, btw).

http://www.synzilla.com/testimonials/Amsoil_vs_Shell_Rotella_T_5w-40_Syntheti...

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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #69 - 09/08/12 at 16:53:26
 
I looked at that,thats Amsoil diesel,the s40s not a diesel so that doesn't mean anything.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #70 - 09/08/12 at 17:07:17
 
 
You are right Bill, it is a much more strenuous test than any gasoline engine oil should have to pass.

And our new MA2 gasoline engine bike oils aren't required to do even one test pass on the normal old wimpy nozzle test and stay in grade, they can drop out of grade after only one little bitty weak-arsed gasoline engine oil shear test.

But then folks will remember that Rotella could do the nastier version (the Amisol shear test) twice over and that was after it was intentionally cut with 2% diesel oil and it still hung in there and stayed in grade.  

Exceptional shear performance when viewed from a Savage perspective, right?


Folks can get tidbits of good data out of Amisol's skewed snake oil testing if they look down deeper and think a bit.

Smiley

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« Last Edit: 09/08/12 at 19:30:35 by Oldfeller--FSO »  

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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #71 - 09/08/12 at 17:42:33
 
I just browsed through that AMSOIL pdf, too. I noted that it was from 2009, which is likely well before the latest catalytic-converter-driven reformulations. I also noted the absence of Rotella - either version -  and the absence of Klotz. Rotella's absence I can understand, because I believe Rotella was only JASO MA rated after the AMSOIL test, and thus would not have been promoted as a motorcycle oil by Shell. I have to guess that Klotz was either not noticed by the buyers, or was considered to be such a niche product (meaning almost insignificant sales) as to be ignored.  In any case we have no data comparing either product with the tested oils.

The other thing I noticed was AMSOIL's statement that there was little correlation between the amount of ZDP and the results of the wear tests. I am not too sure how to interpret that. Perhaps neither the ball-bearing wear test nor the gear wear test correlate well to the wear in flat-tappet systems. Perhaps ZDP is not the only important factor.

To be fair, I would expect a test funded by an oil maker to be so set up as to favor that maker's oil. At the same time, the only way I can see to skew these test results is by weighting the test scores to get favorable results. In this case they appear to have weighted each factor equally, so price carries the same weight as wear. Without doing a lot more research than I feel like doing, I will trust that they conducted their tests in accordance with industry standards.
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Eschew obfuscation.

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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #72 - 09/08/12 at 19:02:47
 
 
If it was the four ball test you were referring to, it likes higher viscosity and film strength for "better results".   It is a hydrodynamic test, mocking a plain bearing con rod under severe loads.

As I think I understand it, the four balls go into continuous contact under a variable (but increasing) load until the film strength collapses at some known point.  Since the balls are in continous contact, ZDDP has no chance to replace its boundary layer and as such does worst in this test than in others.  

ZDDP for example works best on tappets, which are occasionally loaded to film failure with time to recover between the load induced failures.  This is barrier film activity and really has no test rig other than lots & lots of miles inside an in-use engine.

Since you get to pick the 4 ball loading top point, you can stop the loading increase at a level where your Amisol does well and the others start to fail.   You simply avoid testing oils that have a higher yeild point than your oil does and you don't mention the test you are using commonly gets used in testing heavy gear oils and that the rotational loading you are using are ridiculously high compared to anything oil inside a roller bearing Savage crank assembly will ever see.

Above inferences sourced from BITOG's information on 4 ball testing.    Note that simple old Shaffers dino does well on this test, more so than most synthetics.   Why, I haven't got a clue.    Note that BITOG refers to it as a "snake oil test", once again the why isn't completely known.   Thick viscosity additives (Lucas, STP) like this test as they do very well on it, showing a clear before and after difference.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm

Now, apart from Amisol's "snake oil" 4 ball testing, this is the way the oil industry tests shear down in the real tests that get published by them.

The shear stability of an oil is measured by using both ASTM test methods D445 and D5275. First, the viscosity of an engine oil is measured. Then, the oil is exposed to severe shearing conditions by repeatedly pumping it through a specially-sized diesel fuel injection nozzle at high pressure. After shearing the oil, its viscosity is measured again. The percentage of viscosity lost is determined by comparing the second viscosity measurement with the original viscosity measurement.

Wink

I find these differences in test methods to be educational, don't you?
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #73 - 09/09/12 at 06:34:38
 
Looks like we touched a nerve,...[/Gyrobob]

Oh, contraire.  I think if you look at all the info and effort that has been expended – I struck a nerve.  I have provided two links that inform us that excessive TBN scrubs the cylinder walls leading to problems.  OF parades out his dog and pony show out about antique V8s having this exact problem of over cleaning, and what are we talking about?  An antique motor that is very akin to those old V8s.

When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.

source: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engi...

In a gas engine, diesel oil's greater concentration of detergent, or scrubbing agent, can remove manufacturer's deposits on the cylinder wall that help seal the combustion gases

source: http://www.ehow.com/about_6386085_difference-diesel-engine-motor-oil_.html


Charon, I believe the  manufacturer's deposits they are talking about are like Nikasil and other coatings like SCEM (Suzuki Composite Electro-chemical Material).  While our big single doesn’t have those kind of deposits it does have natural combustion deposits that help with the seal between the rings and the cylinder wall and wear.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil

I have tried to refrained from attacking anyone in this post.  However, OF has called me a sock, which he knows is not true – IP is logged – and his convoluted reasons for butchering my posts because he thinks I am a sock is a grievous abuse of power and an attempt to censor opinions that do not jive with his Rotella colored glasses.  I have contributed with posts in the tech/doc/ref thread on brass plug removal.  I am only interested in my 650 savage’s well being.  I’m sorry, OF, you are a great asset to this site, and please except my apology for causing you extra work.  But it is my opinion that high TBN is detrimental to our antique engines.
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Re: Oil changing question
Reply #74 - 09/09/12 at 07:04:23
 
Reading that stuff would make a guy wonder.. I guess then there would be only one way to really know. If someone has enough ( & what IS enough?) miles on one, running Rotella, And there are no compression, oil consumption, blowby type problems,,then could we safely say Rotella works fine?
If anyone needs to know, its me, cuz, Ive got 2 motorcycles, 2 lawmowers, & a pickup I cant afford to injure.
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