My friend's BMW R100RS is a 93 model he got from a seller in Canada. The speedo display is in Kilometers. It has the mono-shock rear suspension and handles MUCH better than my old 1975 R90 did.

[I will not modify the header becauce I am afraid I will loose bottom end power? THats meaning with this bike. Want high revs? Buy a 600R.. ]


If you go too big then you may run the risk of losing performance which is why experts advise not go go bigger than 1.5 for the Savage. I have done it and I assure you their is no loss of bottom or top end power.On the contrary actually.

I wanted mine to be the same size as the outer stock header but I was told by the manufacturer the same thing about losing performance. It is important not to go larger than 1.5 . The smallest increase from 1.5 can impact on performance.

paulmarshall wrote on 08/18/13 at 12:59:42:

Are these the right parts?
Do I need the plates and springs or just the springs?
http://www.barnettclutches.com/940/suzuki/0/0/1987-suzuki-ls-650f.html

Paul Marshall....those are the correct parts for the Savage clutch and are the ones I am using.

Note that there are two different part numbers for the Kevlar friction plates.

One has a larger inside diameter and this is the one that fits over the clutch wave washer. The other 5 have a smaller inside diameter.

Here is a link to the clutch diagram for you:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oem-parts/suzuki/1997/ls650p-savage-v/clutch

The wave washer is part #10 in the diagram.

I have done several of these Barnett clutches and have NEVER replaced the OEM steel clutch drive plates.

I use a rubber sanding block with 320 grit sandpaper and rough up the surface just a little bit.

This is necessary because these plates get polished very smooth during normal operation and were most likely slipping a bit even if you didn't notice any clutch slippage with the OEM clutch.

BE CAREFUL...don't overdo it with the sandpaper...use a light touch when sanding with the block...you do not want to remove any material from the steel plate surface just rough it up a little bit until it no longer is shiny..the rough surface will give your new Kevlar clutch plates something to grab on to.

I did this on my own 97mm Super Thumper and it does NOT slip no matter how hard I try and I did try just to make sure I could re-use the OEM steel drive plates without any slippage issues.

I have over 1,000 miles on the new clutch and so far still no slippage with the re-used OEM drive plates with this big 97mm motor.

The only time I would recommend replacing the steel plates is if they are worn so thin they are out of spec.

I don't have the specs available while I am writing this reply...maybe someone has them and can post them for us

I am currently out of stock on them but will have some more of these Barnett clutches in stock at the end of September.

I am still hoping Lancer will got those Big Bore exhaust pipes made so we can try them out.

Thanks Super Thumper.
I am kicking myself because I had the clutch replaced a couple of months ago with a OEM clutch with 10% stronger springs.This was before I decided to put the 97mm in.Of course now it slips in top when I open the throttle. I feel abit stupid as I wasted money but in saying that the steel plates will be like new.(Should I still sand paper them?)
I wonder if Dave is experiencing clutch issues with his mods.

Dave wrote on 08/19/13 at 12:50:59:

Thats interesting. Would the difference between the 95mm and the 97mm be enough to push the clutch over its limit?