SuzukiSavage.com - Handle bar "slip".

87 savage Full Member Offline Gone riding! Posts: 249 Maine Gender:	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #15 - 08/05/12 at 14:26:13 Art teacher, is the top part of the handlebar clamp touching the bottom part when the bars are installed? If so, machine down top part of the handle bar clamp. (the flat part where the bolts come through) Take off about an 1/8" or so and you'll be able to tighten it better.
Back to top	His: 1987 LS650F stock except for 98 engine, Dyna muffler. Hers: 2008 S40 with factory bags, windshield and sissybar. IP Logged

justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #16 - 08/05/12 at 14:42:21 machine = file.. unless you have a Rowboat mill handy.
Back to top	The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke. IP Logged

87 savage Full Member Offline Gone riding! Posts: 249 Maine Gender:	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #17 - 08/05/12 at 14:46:11 Yes but machine sounds so much better.
Back to top	His: 1987 LS650F stock except for 98 engine, Dyna muffler. Hers: 2008 S40 with factory bags, windshield and sissybar. IP Logged

Boule’tard Serious Thumper ModSquad Offline Master of the Obvious Posts: 1620 Austin TX Gender:	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #18 - 08/05/12 at 14:49:08 machine also = sand = grind. Very handy to at least have a thesaurus when you don't have access to a pretentious "machine shop."
Back to top	That which can be destroyed by the truth should be. - P.C. Hodgell IP Logged

justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #19 - 08/05/12 at 15:06:04 Boule’tard wrote on 08/05/12 at 14:49:08: machine also = sand = grind. Very handy to at least have a thesaurus when you don't have access to a pretentious "machine shop." First real LOL all day./..
Back to top	The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke. IP Logged

WD

Serious Thumper
2005 No Login

Offline

Professional
"scooter
trash".

Posts: 5207
Rosemark TN
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #20 - 08/05/12 at 22:22:54

Pinning them takes all of 5 minutes. Drill 2 holes, insert 2 sheet metal screws. Use stainless steel screws or you'll never get them out. 1/2" will just get it, 3/4" work better, you need to go into the bar. If the screw head bothers you, use a piece of 1/8" stainless rod stock. File flush with the riser cap.

Never trust stock potmetal risers with high bars, they WILL let you down.

Back to top

On 2 wheels since 7/87

Black and Chrome 2003 1950s style custom

IP Logged

justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #21 - 08/05/12 at 23:49:33 Never trust stock potmetal risers with high bars, they WILL let you down. I would never have considered that. Sounds like sage advice,,
Back to top	The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke. IP Logged

elitemunkeycrew

Full Member

Offline

SuzukiSavage.com
Rocks!

Posts: 137
Sierra Vista, Az
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #22 - 08/06/12 at 09:32:25

arteacher wrote on 08/03/12 at 06:02:07:

I have a set of Builtwell Frisco's on stock risers and they move a bit when I pull on them trying to lift my rear off the seat when going over a bad bump. They do this because they are not knurled. I am tightening them up to the point that I am afraid of stripping the bolts.
Any ideas?

Did you buy the 1 inch diameter bars or 7/8 inch bars? I have 1 inch diameter Keystone bars and they work fine.

Back to top

IP Logged

arteacher

Serious Thumper

Offline

Ride as if your
naked and invisable!

Posts: 2581
London ontario
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #23 - 08/06/12 at 10:06:46

87 savage wrote on 08/05/12 at 14:26:13:

Art teacher, is the top part of the handlebar clamp touching the bottom part when the bars are installed? If so, machine down top part of the handle bar clamp. (the flat part where the bolts come through) Take off about an 1/8" or so and you'll be able to tighten it better.

Not touching.

Did you buy the 1 inch diameter bars or 7/8 inch bars? I have 1 inch diameter Keystone bars and they work fine.

1"

Back to top

white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt

IP Logged

arteacher

Serious Thumper

Offline

Ride as if your
naked and invisable!

Posts: 2581
London ontario
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #24 - 08/06/12 at 10:12:11

WD wrote on 08/05/12 at 22:22:54:

Pinning them takes all of 5 minutes. Drill 2 holes, insert 2 sheet metal screws. Use stainless steel screws or you'll never get them out. 1/2" will just get it, 3/4" work better, you need to go into the bar. If the screw head bothers you, use a piece of 1/8" stainless rod stock. File flush with the riser cap.

Never trust stock potmetal risers with high bars, they WILL let you down.

Thanks WD, for sure that would work, but I don't want to loose the ability to adjust them, if necessary.

Back to top

white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt

IP Logged

bill67 Serious Thumper Offline old tired Posts: 8517 genoa city wisconsin Gender:	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #25 - 08/06/12 at 10:47:44 Why couldn't you smear some super glue on both parts and let it dry good,Then it might be rough enough to get it from twisting.Theres also spray adhesives, done the same way might work.
Back to top	william h krumpen IP Logged

verslagen1

YaBB Moderator
ModSquad

Offline

Where there's a
will, I want to be
in it.

Posts: 28886
L.A. California
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #26 - 08/06/12 at 11:06:40

Here's an idea for you...

You can get set screws in several types of points.
Common is a cup point.
What you what is cone point, at least initially.

Second, drill and tap the bar clamp, but do so off to the side, not centered.

This will allow you to flip the cap, readjust the bar and lock it in to new clean position.

I'd also go high on one side and low on the other so that you can also switch caps from one side to the other and bite into new territory.

When you're happy, there's another type called dog point, pull the cone points and replace the cone points and drill the bars at that setting.

Back to top

Versey's Place
Tech Section Index

IP Logged

Dave

YaBB Moderator
ModSquad

Offline

SuzukiSavage.com
Rocks!

Posts: 18099
Camp Springs, Kentucky
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #27 - 08/06/12 at 15:55:41

Try the epoxy method I suggested a week ago......it won't cost much and is totally reversible.

Get the bars where you want them, then put a piece of tape on the bars and clamps and mark it so you can align it. Then take off the caps and clean the bars and clamps with a little bit of solvent to get any grease off. Mix up a small amount of JB Weld and put a small strip in the top and bottom of the clamps, put on the bars and uppers clamps and tighten them down....wipe up anything that oozes out of the clamps. Then pull off the tape and wait 24 hours before you try it.
Some have also suggested Lock Tite......it may work as well.

Give this a try.....in will take less time to try this than it has to post the thread or read the replies.

Back to top

Someday I will be old......But not today!

IP Logged

arteacher

Serious Thumper

Offline

Ride as if your
naked and invisable!

Posts: 2581
London ontario
Gender: male

Re: Handle bar "slip".
Reply #28 - 08/10/12 at 14:51:34

elitemunkeycrew wrote on 08/06/12 at 09:32:25:

arteacher wrote on 08/03/12 at 06:02:07:

I have a set of Builtwell Frisco's on stock risers and they move a bit when I pull on them trying to lift my rear off the seat when going over a bad bump. They do this because they are not knurled. I am tightening them up to the point that I am afraid of stripping the bolts.
Any ideas?

Did you buy the 1 inch diameter bars or 7/8 inch bars? I have 1 inch diameter Keystone bars and they work fine.

Do you happen to have a pick of your bike with the keystones?

Back to top

white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt

IP Logged

brucey YaBB Newbies Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 48 Massachusetts Gender:	Re: Handle bar "slip". Reply #29 - 08/10/12 at 15:22:23 I have the biltwell keystones on my bike as well, I also got the biltwell slimline risers and the bars do not move at all. Its another $99 but they are great risers.
Back to top	IP Logged