I PM'd Lancer about some specifics yesterday about this but then I had a realization today: If I'm this clueless, perhaps others in the future will be as clueless so I may as well post this so it's here for reference.

I bought the vm36 from Lancer. I opted for the UFO upgrade.

According to:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1271444201
and another post I saw by Lancer in the past I need to solder up the pilot jet.

The best idea I could come up with was dropping a bead in there and heating it up with a MAPP torch. I don't think my soldering iron has the guts to melt it through the wall of the jet. I don't know if that's the best way to get this done or if anyone who has been around the block has a better suggestion?

Later on he says:
LANCER wrote on 04/17/10 at 02:58:08:

So this means I just swap out the needle jets and tune with the screw as necessary? Sounds easy enough...


--Steve

I just did this myself.

I had a spare #30 pilot (came with the carb). Held the pilot (softly) in vice grips, heated up the top of the jet, and dropped a good bit of solder on to the top. I kept the soldering iron on the top of the jet for another 30-45 seconds and let gravity work the solder down into the jet. Then I used some solder wick to soak up a bit of the solder up top and then used a file, screwdriver, and a dremel to clean up the screwdriver slot on top of the jet.

Your iron probably does have the guts to do it, it'll just take a few seconds to heat everything up to temperature. My iron is a $10 cheapo and it worked just fine.

I have a VM38, so my experience *might* be different, but the soldered jet was too lean for me. I went to a #10, which was too rich, so I drilled an air bleed hole in my needle jet, which is where I'm at now, trying to get that hole sized right with the air mix screw.

Ugh, third post... I keep thinking of more info you might like to know.

With the soldered pilot jet in, at 1/4 throttle the bike would... hiccup. or sputter... I don't know how you would describe it, but it would feel like it skipped firing one or two revolutions and then pickup just fine.

Going to a #10 jet and drilling the air bleed hole cured that right up. MUCH better now.

But again, I'm on a VM38, so that might not apply to you. I'd advise listening to your air mixture screw. less than half a turn out -- too lean, go up one pilot jet size; more than 2.5 turns out (or 3) -- too rich, go down one pilot jet size. keep in mind that turning the air screw out means more air, so if you need to turn it out 2.5 turns that means that to compensate an overly rich pilot jet, you are introducing more air to the mixture.

http://www.mikunioz.com/download.htm has the VM super tuning manual, which might help a bit.

Paraquat wrote on 07/27/12 at 09:12:59:



The only issue I have with that is that my pilot jets had bleed holes. This means that the solder has to get a lot deeper into the jet to prevent fuel flow than if I want from the top. Of course, I could be confusing the function of the bleed holes. The way I see it, the bleed holes let in more fuel, so you'd have to solder all of them closed. Where as I only soldered the top hole, where the fuel is sucked in from.

Like I said, I could be wrong, but that is what I thought of. Dripping solder down from the mushroom tip of the jet is probably a better idea, as long as you did it to cover all of the bleed holes, which would mean the solder was coming out of the "top" flat part with the screw channel in it.

::shrug::
many ways to skin a cat (where did that saying come from anyways?!).

As long as the jet is "plugged" you'll achieve the desired affect.

^That looks like you have a bit of a personal problem with your manly bits.

Main jet shouldn't have anything to do with idling. I guess with the UFO idle is all determined by needle position? Not sure about that...

Get her to fire up and warmed up a little using the choke/throttle and then back off the throttle with the choke off until the bike is at lower revs (900-1300) area and take note of how the bike sounds/smells. overly rich conditions will be fairly obvious (it'll smell/sound like the choke is on), but I'm guessing you are too lean. Turn the air screw all the way in and try that. Otherwise you might have to buy a #10 pilot jet and drill an air bleed hole in the needle jet.

That sucks about the burns. Burns hurt. Might be a good excuse to have your girlfriend break out the lotion though  

I've lit myself on fire twice because of my bikes. Once I was using carb cleaner in a utility sink, and then decided to check the floats for holes by holding them over a candle (covered in soap, so bubbles would form where pinholes were) and even though the sink was dry, i got a nice fireball. The second time I had gas on my pants/hands and was testing spark plugs on a bike. Found out the spark plugs worked real quick.

Hey man,
I can't help you at all with your carb questions... I was reading this out of curiosity and hoping to enlighten my own little brains a bit.

But I did want to say that as much as it must have really sucked to set yourself on fire, I'm very glad it wasn't worse. It actually sounds like you handled it really well, and kept a bad night from becoming a complete tragedy. Good Job!

And I hope you get your carb sorted out soon...
Cheers!

Ok. So I get home, amped up to try out the 185 jet, add some fuel, choke on, bike fires up, falls on it's face. I go to start the bike again and fuel is puking out of the overflow. Infact, fuel is puking out of the overflow about as fast as I can fill it.
I let it drain down.
I try to fire it up to see if anything was in the bowl. It visibly back fires out the carb. I don't catch on fire this time because I took necessary precautions and safe guards.
I add fuel and again it dumps out almost as fast as I can put it in.
I don't get it. I'm about to just throw the stock carb on just so I can ride.

EDIT: Been reading. I've heard needle, I've heard seat spring, I've heard floats, I've heard it's time for a rebuild
Going to check the book and then float levels.

EDIT x2: Took the bowl off. "Inspected" everything. Put it back together. It doesn't puke out anymore. It won't fire up without the choke, once running I can get one rev before it falls on it's face again. I'm beginning to suspect I might need the .010 pilot jet as noted above.

Edit x3:

On my stock carb:
#4 has been removed
#10 there says 230
#11 says 45

From my Dynojet kit:
#18 says 144
and my needle is on the 4th slot

I'm not sure about #17 but it doesn't look like it's giving up without a fight. With my factory carb I can idle and rev.

From this thread:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1173814414

Quote:


Edit x4: I found my Dynojet box. I can't believe it was that easy.
There is a screw and drill bit (I assume it was from drilling out the brass plug), 2 stickers, and brand new in the bags 138, 140, 142, 144 (bag is empty. this jet is in my carb), 146 jets. There is a dirty, old, discolored jet I assume is the stock one I saved because I'm a packrat. It says 145.
There is also a small washer in there I now realize was probably supposed to replace the white spacer but never made it in.

Edit x5: With the stock carb, all settings mentioned above, the bike fired right up. It just idled and rev'd  for about 20 minutes. With the adjustment screw all the way screwed in (clockwise for lean) the bike was idling around 12.7 to 13.2 The bike actually felt between ~3/4-1 turn out of the adjustment screw which kept my idle AFRs between 12.7 and 13.2 and dropping to 10.9 when I crack the throttle about halfway. Still a bit rich for my tastes.

I put my dynojet 142 jet in the bike. Brought the screw all the way in. The wideband started acting up and was saying I was idling between 16-17.7 with a throttle blip bringing it down to high 14's. Figured I'd give that one a try to so I can say I rode the bike.
Went down the street and the bike stalled at the first stop sign. Popped and crackled on decel. I think it was better with the Dynojet 144. IF I were keeping this carb I'd say bigger jets all around.

Now my task is to use this page:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1104263751
to translate what works into what jets to install in the VM36. I don't get it. Statistically even the blind squirrel should've found a nut.


--Steve