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"Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War (Read 2072 times)
Oldfeller
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"Mileage/Total Cost per Mile" Tire War
07/15/12 at 18:33:55
 

Read down, this is now a Rear Tire Mileage and Total Cost per Mile comparison between the major brands of rear tires that we use on the Savage.


 
Went to the Dragon with over half of my tread depth remaining, had to come back a day early due to a totally bald rear tire.

Watched it evaporate, day by day (it was very noticeable).

Modern superbike tires suck, they have to be soooo soft and grippy just to hold them 100 hp bikes on the road that they evaporate too durn easy, even on a puny 30 hp Savage.

Went on a search for longer lasting hard rubber (sipe construction) rear tire, think I may have found one that gets pretty close to the size envelope of the Dunlop Cruise Max tire that was on it before.   Had to go all the way to Japan/South Korea to get one .....  hard rubber rear tires are a rare item these days.

The price I paid was a bit of an issue, especially with all the $$ you have to pay to get a tire shipped these days.   The Dunlop on the right was a $114 dollar tire that cost $16 to ship (that's over $60 a year I paid to run that sorry evaporating son of a gun Dunlop tire ....)




What do you guys think?



Grin     feel free, we haven't had a good tire war in ages .....

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« Last Edit: 07/26/12 at 03:26:04 by Oldfeller »  

Stock silver 2002 ls650 with small saddle bags. Looks like Granny's old worn out bike, nothing special to it at all.
(all mods except BIG piston and carb change have been done, but do not show)
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Greg
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #1 - 07/15/12 at 18:46:26
 
I would be curious to hear how it performs in various conditions. I found that long lasting tires for my Jeep had poor performance on wet pavement.
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #2 - 07/15/12 at 18:49:18
 

A 165/80-90 car tire fits on the stock rim and into the frame without rubbing?

On my bike it does ....  your bike, probably would rub several places.


And what was the tire you evaporated?

Dunlop Cruise Max 140/90-15     90 series tires have higher profiles than 80 series tires do so the height comes out within a half inch of each other new (Nexen is taller and wider)
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #3 - 07/15/12 at 18:50:04
 
What, a Nankang 135-15 aircooled VW tire isn't good enough for ya... oh, wait, the Savage makes more power than a 1200cc VW...  Grin    can't find the 135/80-15 Nankangs any more -- world has changed and V dub tires are scarce any more -- got to get a tire intended for a Mini Cooper or a TR6

I've got a couple Dunlops for mine or I'd be going the same basic route, car tire. 1/2 the cost, 10X the tire life.

No worse than the old Firestone, Acme or Carlisle lightning bolt motorcycle tires.Talk about some hard rubber.
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« Last Edit: 07/22/12 at 05:48:28 by Oldfeller »  

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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #4 - 07/15/12 at 18:53:34
 
Greg wrote on 07/15/12 at 18:46:26:
I would be curious to hear how it performs in various conditions. I found that long lasting tires for my Jeep had poor performance on wet pavement.

I had a Michelin tire set on my car I bought new in 1993. They were fine on dry roads, but abysmal in the wet. You could slide the car in the wet like it was on snow. I sold the car in 1998 with 60% thread left on them. I am not joking. The car had 125,000km on it then.
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #5 - 07/15/12 at 18:56:47
 
WD wrote on 07/15/12 at 18:50:04:
What, a Nankang 135-15 aircooled VW tire isn't good enough for ya... oh, wait, the Savage makes more power than a 1200cc VW...  Grin

I've got a couple Dunlops for mine or I'd be going the same basic route, car tire. 1/2 the cost, 10X the tire life.

No worse than the old Firestone, Acme or Carlisle lightning bolt motorcycle tires.Talk about some hard rubber.


A VW has 34HP with 1200cc, but way better traction. The Savage is light and that torque it produces always produces slip you are not even aware of all the time. That is were your rubber goes missing.
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #6 - 07/15/12 at 19:04:30
 
 
What?    A Savage can be hard on tires?    Bunch of grayheads pokying around in the mountains isn't gonna hurt a well built tire any ....

Wink

Seriously, we do slip the rear tires on acceleration out of the corners and we ouchie them good with the brakes going in too.    Road heat was a factor, high 99-100 degree road temps even up in the mountains that week.
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Stock silver 2002 ls650 with small saddle bags. Looks like Granny's old worn out bike, nothing special to it at all.
(all mods except BIG piston and carb change have been done, but do not show)
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #7 - 07/15/12 at 19:26:47
 
I got that Dunlop K555 on the rear since about almost 6,000 miles and it has about 40% left. I like twisting the throttle and I use ALL the tire, not just the middle, if you know what I mean. So that isn't that bad. The stock IRC is simply GONE after 2,500 miles of my style riding. It isn't worth a darn. Same with the stock brake pads. GONE in no time, and 40 bux a set. The Kevlar pads from ebay are on since over 3,000 miles and show hardly any wear, AND are friendly to the rotor too.
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #8 - 07/15/12 at 22:37:05
 
of you dont tell us how many miles.
metzler 880s imo

On the Dunlop?  2 dragon runs and some in town stuff, less than 5000 miles total on that particular tire.   Most of that was running around town and the road miles to and from the Dragon and less than a thousand miles running the curves.

Have you priced a Metzler 880 in 140/90-15 lately?   $161 plus shipping ???   It would have to last a long long long time to get your purchase price back.
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« Last Edit: 07/16/12 at 02:19:01 by Oldfeller »  

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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #9 - 07/16/12 at 07:03:42
 
 
Let's see what we can do about those excessively thick and long tubeless sealing surfaces that all tubless tires seem to come with today.   They do get in the way when mounting a tire on an old style simple tube rim like the Savage uses.

High bead seating pressures are caused by this excess "tubeless" rubber sealing surface that you aren't going to be using anyway.  

High seating pressures are DANGEROUS.   (don't ask me how I know this)  
You can break a steel wire tire bead if the seating pressures get over 60 psi and the bead gets hung up and gets kinked over the edge of the rim.

And lookie, finally something useful to do with the electric turkey slicer other than sit in a drawer for years at a time.

A couple of drops of oil between the blades periodically (rubber is tougher than turkey after all) and don't slice for more than 5 mins at a lick, then stop for 15 mins to give the little motor some cool down time.   Whole job takes 20 minutes of run time, so you can afford not to overheat the little electric knife by giving it a break every 5 mins. of cut time.

Then take the knife blades apart and wash it up real good and put it away for next Thanksgiving.


"Honey, this turkey tastes funny .... sorta like rubber."

"What are these little black flecks in the meat?"



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« Last Edit: 07/22/12 at 05:39:07 by Oldfeller »  

DSCF0041.JPG

Stock silver 2002 ls650 with small saddle bags. Looks like Granny's old worn out bike, nothing special to it at all.
(all mods except BIG piston and carb change have been done, but do not show)
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #10 - 07/16/12 at 07:08:45
 

How do you know where to slice?

Look at the tire you just took off -- the bead conforms to the Savage rim exactly after being clamped up by pressure all that long.

Measure the Savage rim conformed old tire and see where that distance comes on your new tire.   I was lucky to have a little seam line that was at just the right spot, so for me turkey trimming away all the fat was easy.

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DSCF0042.JPG

Stock silver 2002 ls650 with small saddle bags. Looks like Granny's old worn out bike, nothing special to it at all.
(all mods except BIG piston and carb change have been done, but do not show)
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #11 - 07/16/12 at 09:46:14
 
i got front and rear for $215.54 from CruiserCustomizing.com when they were runing a sale + free shipping
9k and counting
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #12 - 07/16/12 at 12:52:34
 
 
Good man, catch the good stuff on sale and go fer it.

My current full set (I bought a front tire also, but that was shipped in) with tax and shipping cost me $55.64+$46.98+$6.98 = $109.60

Since you bought the very fine Metzler quality tire you can spot me the measly 9,000 break in miles you got on your set and I'll spot you the extra $110 in cost that you paid out of pocket for the tires -- now that we are more or less even with each other we can have us a little mileage war over what remains.   We'll race the rear tires because we all know fronts outlast the rears at about 2 to 1 ratio so the rears will always "tell the tale" on brand durability a lot quicker.

Sound fair to you?

If we both live long enough to wear out our current set, the first one to replace a rear tire buys the beer.

This of course provides only one "out" for the bet -- tire death due to misadventure (tube failure, road hazard slice, etc) over which nobody has any control.

Anybody else got a freshly installed rear tire that you want to get into the betting pool with?   Gotta have some pride in your tire brand and faith in the mileage, enough to put a six pack at risk?

We'll make the reporting rules simple, to get into the betting pool you report your odometer mileage and current tread depth and what you really paid total for the rear tire (include the shipping & mounting please).  Then each year you measure your tread depth and report your odometer mileage.  

I'll whup up a spreadsheet that gives miles per thousandth worn off and cost per thousandth worn off.  It will even predict "miles to zero tread depth" which will be pretty meatball but kinda fun to watch progress.  

This method allows somebody with an already started rear tire to participate evenly with no penalty as we can say it is a "least cost per mile over life of the tire" kind of tire race.

Sound like your kind of Tire War?

Ya got some Pride in what you ride?
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« Last Edit: 07/22/12 at 05:50:21 by Oldfeller »  

Stock silver 2002 ls650 with small saddle bags. Looks like Granny's old worn out bike, nothing special to it at all.
(all mods except BIG piston and carb change have been done, but do not show)
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #13 - 07/16/12 at 13:27:48
 
I just put one of those dunlop rear tires on about 500 miles ago. stock size 140/90/15 I think its the 404
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Oldfeller
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Re: Hard Rubber Rear Tire War
Reply #14 - 07/16/12 at 13:34:44
 
 
Stay off the Dragon in the summer peak heat and you'll do OK with the Dunlop -- what is your shipped and mounted total tire cost, tread depth (measure center of tire by the valve stem and not on a wear bar pls) and your odometer mileage right now.


Where are our Perelli 66 lovers?   (they say they love them, anyway)


Shinko boys, you have a chance here as the low initial cost gets factored against miles that you get out of it -- you may get fewer miles than the high price spread but I bet your cost per mile is very competitive.

Note: this is why we ask for shipped and mounted cost -- folks who don't have to put one on as often as a Shinko or a Maxxis have to do they get an appropriate bonus for that cost savings.


Hey, this might turn into a pretty useful brand comparison tool if we can work it right.
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« Last Edit: 07/16/12 at 15:18:36 by Oldfeller »  

Stock silver 2002 ls650 with small saddle bags. Looks like Granny's old worn out bike, nothing special to it at all.
(all mods except BIG piston and carb change have been done, but do not show)
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