SuzukiSavage.com - The Belt Guardian

elitemunkeycrew Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 137 Sierra Vista, Az Gender:	The Belt Guardian 07/15/12 at 16:31:17 Question in on the video. I appreciate any advice. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNy3djArUjs&feature=youtu.be
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Greg Serious Thumper Offline Molon Labe Posts: 1251 Southeast PA, uSA Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #1 - 07/15/12 at 16:43:37 I hope it's fine like that. Mine is the same and has been for a while!
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rfw2003 Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 1108 Yantis, TX	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #2 - 07/15/12 at 16:44:05 Myself I would put another washer in there or one that was alittle thicker then what you used. But if there is no movement in the shock it should be o.k. but it wouldn't hurt to have enough spacers in there to stop the bolt from turning. R.F.
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arteacher Serious Thumper Offline Ride as if your naked and invisable! Posts: 2581 London ontario Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #3 - 07/15/12 at 16:54:51 Won't hurt anything the way it is.
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verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28886 L.A. California Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #4 - 07/15/12 at 17:10:51 Was the ID of the washer small enough to engage the shock bolt?
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clearush Senior Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 261 Deer Park,TX Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #5 - 07/15/12 at 18:21:22 I didn't even bother with the washer. If you add a washer and tighten it down for no movement, you will most likely bind up your shock movement. That bolt is a pivot point for the shock even though its not much, there is some rotation around the bolt when the swing arm moves and compresses the shock.
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Oldfeller--FSO Serious Thumper ModSquad Offline Hobby is now "concentrated neuropany" Posts: 12673 Fayetteville, NC Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #6 - 07/16/12 at 04:32:59 You are clamping up on a hard steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing of the shock. The sleeve can slip (by design) inside the rubber shock bushing. Reason for this is given in the post above, the shock must rotate part of a degree every time it compresses.
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RanDaMan Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 149 Massachusetts Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #7 - 07/16/12 at 05:44:44 I just removed the belt guard on my bike too. Only I didnt compensate for the lost space of the belt gaurd and over tightend that acorn nut i think its siezed on there now! it'll hold but when i go to take it off in the future i might have to sawsall that bolt off!
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elitemunkeycrew Full Member Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 137 Sierra Vista, Az Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #8 - 07/16/12 at 07:21:24 verslagen1 wrote on 07/15/12 at 17:10:51: Was the ID of the washer small enough to engage the shock bolt? The inside diameter was a little snug I didn't have to force it on.
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elitemunkeycrew

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Re: The Belt Guardian
Reply #9 - 07/16/12 at 07:25:53

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 07/16/12 at 04:32:59:

You are clamping up on a hard steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing of the shock.

The sleeve can slip (by design) inside the rubber shock bushing.

Reason for this is given in the post above, the shock must rotate part of a degree every time it compresses.

Should I throw on some lock tight? 26 lbs torque just doesn't seem that much to me.

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elitemunkeycrew

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Re: The Belt Guardian
Reply #10 - 07/16/12 at 08:23:42

Follow Up Question:

I'm new to using torque specs, when reading the chart below on the right side under foot pounds there are two numbers.

ITEM N-m | ft-lb
Shock
absorber mounting nuts 20.0 30.0 | 14.7 22.1

Which one do I apply when torquing a bolt? The way I figured is 14.7 would be the low end and 22.1 would be the high end and as long as you torqued somewhere in that range you're good. Is my thinking all wrong?

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renegade1 Full Member Offline SAVAGE Posts: 212 Abbotsford B.C. Gender:	Re: The Belt Guardian Reply #11 - 07/16/12 at 14:03:59 call me dumb but i just took the guard off and left it. havnt had any problems... yet haha
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360k+

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Re: The Belt Guardian
Reply #12 - 07/16/12 at 19:28:42

I'm wondering if the bolt length is meant to bottom out inside the acorn nut, in this case? If so, further tightening won't make any difference because the resistance isn't coming from the captured parts (rubber, sleeve, washers, etc.), it's coming from the cap on the acorn hitting the bolt. This would allow radial movement of the shock mount, yet keep the bolt & nut from loosening (and coming off). The only problem is the bolt length would be somewhat critical to allow this to work.

In fact, some of you might already be saying this???

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justin_o_guy2

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Re: The Belt Guardian
Reply #13 - 07/16/12 at 21:05:33

Just because someone writes a torque spec for every nut & bolt on something doesnt mean youve got to worry about it,, Its a NUT on a Bolt, get it tight, dont twist it off,, its not gonna fly off & fling the bike in a ditch, Torque matters on some things,, granted,, but common sense will get a guy thru most things, Feel,, youll know when its tite, or youll learn to .

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Digger

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Re: The Belt Guardian
Reply #14 - 08/03/12 at 19:14:45

360k+ wrote on 07/16/12 at 19:28:42:

...... This would allow radial movement of the shock mount, yet keep the bolt & nut from loosening (and coming off).....

I'm thinkin' that it would not take much radial movement down there to create a problem, the least of which would be a clunk during any appreciable shock movement.

There's three ways the bottom shock mount can move wrt that bolt: axially, radially, and circumferentially. Perhaps you were referring to circumferential movement.

To answer the OP's question, if there is no clunking from that bolt, I think that you're OK. I'd keep an eye on it, though.

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