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bolt extraction, (Read 320 times)
splash07
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bolt extraction,
07/04/12 at 14:13:18
 
So, I twisted off the rear most bolt that holds on the sprocket cover. Then I drilled it out, and tried using a screw sxtractor to get it out, even sprayed some PB blaster on it. The screw esctractor twisted off flush with the case.....aweseome. Help!!!!!!!!!!!


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rfw2003
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #1 - 07/04/12 at 14:18:27
 
I feel your pain,  Don't have any advise to give ya since it broke off flush.  So far I've been lucky that when I had an extractor break off I was able to get ahold of it with vise grips.  Those things are pretty much impossible to drill. You can try a left hand twist drill bit, but as I said, they are almost impossible to drill.

R.F.
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #2 - 07/04/12 at 15:23:15
 
If you have access to a welder, preferably a mig, & it is broken off flush, you might be able to weld a nut to it. It's pretty much a 2 person job, someone to hold the nut against it with pliers or vice grips while the other does the welding. Usually the heat from welding will help break the bolt loose & it will come right out. Smiley

I've used this technique to get broken exhaust bolts out of car cylinder heads, both cast iron & aluminum. It has worked in places so tight there was no room to drill. Cool

This is the kind of crap I have to deal with all the time. Sad Shocked
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #3 - 07/04/12 at 15:25:36
 
What he said. They're hard as Hell and will not like to drill.


--Steve
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #4 - 07/04/12 at 15:32:56
 
Yep, you up sh!t creek, you've lost your paddle, and the dingy has sprung a leak.  go for the professional help as said above if you really want it fixed like new.  otherwise, time to find out if 3 are really necessary.   Huh
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splash07
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #5 - 07/04/12 at 15:42:50
 
what the hell, it will twist off but wont drill? guess I am going to see if I can get by with two. We shall see.
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #6 - 07/04/12 at 15:51:06
 
splash07 wrote on 07/04/12 at 15:42:50:
what the hell, it will twist off but wont drill? guess I am going to see if I can get by with two. We shall see.

they're super hard, that makes them super brittle.
when ever you use them, use a 2 handled handle and don't bend them.
you might try a carbide drill.
And the other thought, can you drill from the back side?
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splash07
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #7 - 07/04/12 at 16:13:23
 
Cant drill from the back without removing the engine. I am afraid that even with a carbide bit it will slip and drill into the soft aluminum instead. I think I am going to have to live witrh this one.
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #8 - 07/04/12 at 16:19:34
 
It's situations like this one of those little Harbor Freight migs comes in handy. With flux core wire you can take the shield off & get right in tight spots like welding a nut to a stud. Cool
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What happened?

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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #9 - 07/04/12 at 16:52:27
 
JUst how did you come to be in such a spot? Best to study how you got here now, its obvious somethng went wrong. Avoiding it in the future would be good, No?
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #10 - 07/04/12 at 22:45:12
 
Not sayin' it would work,... but, I'd dremel or hacksaw a slot, across the bolt and the pedestal... then, use an impact wrench with a common bit to try to remove...  if that failed... grind away enough of the pedestal to get a bite on the bolt with vise grips and pull the bolt... Then add a washer or two to install the new bolt...
... but.. I can't use a welder for sheeitt... so my ideas are limited.... Grin...
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #11 - 07/04/12 at 23:13:14
 
Yup, welder is needed here. I would try the nut method but I suggest a wire-feed(mig or flux-core) welder over a tig. You'll never get any heat on that trying to reach through the hole of a nut with a tig.
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splash07
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #12 - 07/05/12 at 07:58:27
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 07/04/12 at 16:52:27:
JUst how did you come to be in such a spot? Best to study how you got here now, its obvious somethng went wrong. Avoiding it in the future would be good, No?


Yes, prevention is the best maintenance, however, I have no idea how I got in this situation. I was actually trying to remove the bolt when it broke, so I guess I put it in too tight to begin with.


So I might try the slot idea, if i could get a slot started then I might be able to at least get the extractor out then I can finish drilling out the bolt and re-tap the hole for a new bolt, maybe will have to go a size up. I am pretty bad at welding and really dont want to spend a bunch of money on tools I will never really use.  If the slot idea does not work then I am going to live with it until the next time the motor gets pulled then just take it to a machine shop and let a "real" mechanic fix her up.
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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #13 - 07/05/12 at 09:17:41
 
Many years ago some old millwrights showed me a trick to remove broken bolts, taps etc. which still works quite well.  You get a small cold chisel and either use the corner or grind it fit the situation.  You then find an irregularity in the broken bolt or whatever near the outside edge where the point of the chisel will dig in.  You then gently and carefully start tapping the chisel with a small ball peen hammer in a counter-clockwise direction and if you are lucky and skilled you can rotate the thing out of there , one little tap at a time, far enough to get a grip on it and remove it the rest of the way.

I've done it or seen it done several hundred times on bolts and taps that were broken off flush.  It works amazingly well once you get the hang of it.  You will need good light and maybe some reading glasses if you can't see the broken surface in good detail.  Sometimes the chisel will cut out the place it dug into, before that happens switch to a small straight punch or regrind  the chisel.
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justin_o_guy2
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What happened?

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Re: bolt extraction,
Reply #14 - 07/05/12 at 10:05:41
 
Looks to me like the drill was off center & the Eze OUt in in the threads. Its not coming out.
IF that thing is in the threads at all, if the peaks & valleys of the interlocked threads had the drill invade them at all & that eze out is in there at all, its not turning,,Since its in aluminum, you cantheat it up, What you can do is grind it down & have someone weld a nut on it. Then youd have female threads to run into.

Eze outs are not well named & often take a bad situation & make it worse,

Removing a broken bolt requires technique, & developing that technique is painful. The Eze out isnt the first thing to go for. & before a drill gets put on the dutchman, the surface has to be readied. A centerpunch, OHHH to the CENTER is crucial. This is the basis for succeeding. Off center drilling on a dutchman is the first step to failure,

Avoiding this problem is much easier than fixing it. Antisieze is your friend. Remember these bolts arent the finest & overtightening has negative results..The technique, how the ratchet or wrench is held, what you feel for, is learned thru trial & error. Its not impossible to learn if someone will try to describe it. I think Ive described it well a few times & frankly, Im tired of typing it, maybe someone will drag it up or maybe no one thot it was worth reading,,  
I feel pretty confident that my technique is good, because I remember twisting things off years ago.& since its been so many years since I had one bite me, Ive got to believe Ive changed, So, either threaded things have all improved, or I already wrecked all the weak stuff, OR, Ive learned to work with threaded connectors without causing problems,,Im gonna say the years of experience have taught me how to feel for a thread coming tight or getting ready to let go,
One thing is certain, blindly cranking on a bolt & not paying attention to every bit of feedback its giving you will bite you in the butt,,

All that said, anyone can encounter a weak casting or lousy bolt & get bit, theres no guarantee that paying attention will save yer butt every time, but not paying attention will get ya one day.. fer sure..
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