I have my safety test coming up and have already failed about a week ago because they wanted me to get up to 25/30 kmh then emergency stop then tight right and do it again ( MAYBE 30/35 feet inbetween ) any thoughts of how to get up to speed in this time with enought room to stop?

Accelerate alittle harder and don't be afraid of that front brake.  It provides the majority of your stopping power.

25/30 kmh... that's only 15 mph  that'd be winding it out in 1st shift up into 2nd and give it a good twist.

don't bother with the rear brake, let engine braking do it.
get a handful of front brake and don't launch yourself  
grab the clutch before she stalls and drop her into 1st and go.

practice, practice, practice.

Thanks guys a main problem though is that it does not accelerate that fast hahahha hits a dead spot then goes hard at 20 my main problem is that i can't get to that speed in the small distance given. You guys know of anything that can increase throttle response? And 360 good thing you didn't change your "state" and if so there's medication for that haha

Sounds like ya need to do a little maintenance on your bike then, or is this a provided bike that you are being tested on?

BUT, not saying your wrong sorry if that was disrespectful. vers. said sea foam and do i just run a whole tank through??? What do you think about this information i found.                                                     Getting back to your Savage 650,  here's how we can specifically cure its problem. We need to richen those two areas of the curburetion curve that are factory set on the ridiculous side of leanness. Remove the diaphragm slide from the carburetor and look down inside its bore. Two small screws hold a plate over the slide needle.
Removing the plate, you'll see a small, white plastic spacer with a hole through it sitting on top of the needle. Throw that spacer away and reinstall the plate. A spring under the needle clip will now push the needle up to the plate occupying the space vacated by the white spacer. The distance that the needle has been 'lifted' is the thickness of the discarded spacer - and that's ideal. With the needle raised, more fuel will flow by it, meeting the actual needs of midrange running.
We can also fatten up the low end of your bike's carburetor by turning out the low-speed mixture screw. To gain access to this screw, you'll need to drill out the brass plug pressed in over it and yank it out with a sheet-metal screw attached to a slide hammer. You'll find that plug up high on the right side of the carb about where the mouth enters the carburetor. Usually Suzuki applies a splash of white paint over the brass plug so that it's immediately noticeable. With the engine warmed up and idling, turn the mixture screw out incrementally until you achieve the highest idle. There will be no doubt in your mind that you're making progress because the idle will come up and sound stronger. At this point, turn the idle adjuster knob out and bring the idle back down to a leisurely gait.
Just these two, relatively simple adjustments will not only eliminate the backfire, they will make an amazing improvement in throttle response and driveability.

yeah i have a couple buddys with rockets but never took the time to even mess around on em' so maybe that'll help good call problem is. im gunna try the "seafoam" not to sure procedure on how to do it, basically injector cleaner for FI vehicles right?

Seafoam not rocket science, just run the specified amount (or more) thru it and hope for the best.Did you try pulling the choke 1 notch,.....give yo  somewhat of an idea if its running lean for sure.
Whatever, don't go modding the carb for a problem that wasn't always there. If there is a prob w/ the carb that wasn't there before,, it needs cleaning, not modifying !