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35 degrees work for anyone? (Read 144 times)
bess227
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35 degrees work for anyone?
06/21/12 at 06:13:37
 
I bet Serow would love some cooler temps about now.

I am actually looking at switching to a 35 degree drag bar on my 07. anyone here running one. I think it would keep the style of the stock look but put my hands in a better position.

my other thought was to go to a low rise clubman and use the stock risers.

any input good or bad is appreciated.

safe ridin.

Scott
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15 miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway. 07 S40, Black, stock, Slipstreamer shield, Saddleman bags, Routy FC's, Sissy Bar.....love this bike.
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #1 - 06/21/12 at 08:05:04
 
35'?..  Brrrr!...

Not sure of the angle of mine, but probably close.  Need about 3 to 4" riser to clear tank...
Bar length and clampdown angle, will make a difference as well... I like some downturn on the bar ends...

My throttle switches just barely clear the gas cap...
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bill67
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #2 - 06/21/12 at 08:12:34
 
Some times mine angles up and some times down 4 inch riser would help. Smiley
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william h krumpen
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bess227
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #3 - 06/21/12 at 09:32:38
 
thanks guys,

i am thinking this may be the way i go.
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15 miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway. 07 S40, Black, stock, Slipstreamer shield, Saddleman bags, Routy FC's, Sissy Bar.....love this bike.
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #4 - 06/21/12 at 09:36:21
 
My stock 2009 uses 5.5 in risers with a 27 in drag bar (no rise) with 30 deg bends around a 6 inch center.   I just bought a 29 inch similar bar with 35 deg (eyeballing with a protractor) bends around an 8 inch center.  I have not installed it yet tho because I am researching various anti-vibration techniques.   I had a heck of a time finding plain bars that had no rise, dimples, holes, or knurls, but finally found the new bar at Leatherup.com for $50 incl shipping.  Here's a picture showing stock bar.   Again, the new one is similar but 2 in wider with a 2 in wider center.   I am also considering going to shorter risers.

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Hinchman11
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #5 - 06/21/12 at 09:58:36
 
If you are looking to get new risers I would be interested in buying your stock risers and possibly bar also. I have stock buck horns and I am looking to buy risers and a drag bar.
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OK.... so what's the
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #6 - 06/21/12 at 10:10:11
 
360,... I put some spray in, expanding foam insulation,(sold for home wall outlet insulation)... in mine...
It is said to reduce harmonic oscillations without adding weight...
Very messy job though....
It expanded, all over the place... Grin...

Can't say if it did anything or not.... didn't try the bar hollow...
... but the theory sounded good...
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arteacher
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #7 - 06/21/12 at 10:51:51
 
Filled mine with lead shot. Worked pretty good.
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OK.... so what's the
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #8 - 06/21/12 at 11:02:01
 
arteacher wrote on 06/21/12 at 10:51:51:
Filled mine with lead shot. Worked pretty good.

30lb bars?... Huh...
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bess227
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #9 - 06/21/12 at 11:06:46
 
Serow

Us redneck deer hunters do that to our climbing treestands to dampen the noise. it definitely works for that. i feel sure that sound waves probably have less energy than motion waves.
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15 miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway. 07 S40, Black, stock, Slipstreamer shield, Saddleman bags, Routy FC's, Sissy Bar.....love this bike.
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bess227
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #10 - 06/21/12 at 11:09:11
 
360+

thanks for the pic. i have a stock 07 riser and drag bar now. i am just a couple of inches away from where i want to be.

flanders 35 degree bar is supposedly a couple inches wider and the bend looks a lot more aggressive than my stock bar.

would love to see a pic of yours when you get the 35 mounted up.

thanks for sharing.
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15 miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway. 07 S40, Black, stock, Slipstreamer shield, Saddleman bags, Routy FC's, Sissy Bar.....love this bike.
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #11 - 06/21/12 at 11:51:50
 
Serowbot wrote on 06/21/12 at 10:10:11:
360,... I put some spray in, expanding foam insulation,(sold for home wall outlet insulation)... in mine...
It is said to reduce harmonic oscillations without adding weight...
Very messy job though....
It expanded, all over the place... Grin...

Can't say if it did anything or not.... didn't try the bar hollow...
... but the theory sounded good...


LOL, I know.   I've used that stuff before and it's like attack of son of flubber or something.

I've been doing some research and found that various "fillers" don't suppress as much as they move the resonant frequency up or down the scale.  Completely empty, the bars are like a bell with a natural resonance (in fact they ring if you hang them up and hit them with a wrench).  If their natural ring or any harmonic is close to the bike's vibration at a given rpm, then you will get a combining amplification factor.  In any case, if I could just rid the primary vibration at hiway speeds of 60..70mph (rpm?) then I'd be semi-pleased.

I've looked at various things like mixing lead shot with silicon gorp, or inserting hollow lead round stock with a bolt thru it to expand and pull it tight inside the tubing.  There are also several companies who make "tuned mass dampers" that vibrate at the same frequency, but opposite phase (i.e., counter vibrate).

I even came up with a design with a microcontroller that reduces oscillations dynamically at any rpm using counter vibration feedback.   The problem is you have to drill a hole in your bars and run 12V inside, and the gadget also wears out eventually.
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Savage_Rob
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #12 - 06/21/12 at 16:18:45
 
arteacher wrote on 06/21/12 at 10:51:51:
Filled mine with lead shot. Worked pretty good.

I was told that would work.  I filled mine with BB's and used a bit of epoxy in each end.  Workin' well for me.
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Re: 35 degrees work for anyone?
Reply #13 - 06/21/12 at 17:56:11
 
I looked at BBs and loose shot.  One thing I read about it tho, is if you are using weight to move the resonance lower (heavier = lower), then you want the weight anchored solidly to the bar itself.   Otherwise the bar will still vibrate separately from the loosely bound material inside.   Think of a ping pong ball with a steely inside.  If the steely is left loose, you can still shake the ball reasonably easy, but if the steely is glued to the inside it makes it harder to shake the ball, because the total mass being shaken increases.  I dunno, a lot of this is theory anyway???
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