SimonTuffGuy wrote on 06/03/12 at 16:50:52:You need to loosen the bleeder screw on caliper itself... If you've never done it before, find someone to help you... These are your BRAKES and you need them to work correctly.
The process is... Attach a hose (I used aquarium hose from the local pet shop) to the nipple of the bleeder on the caliper. Loosen the bleeder screw, with the reservoir filled (I always put the cap/lid back on, didn't screw it, but laid on top - I also propped the bike up so that master cylinder was level), pump the clutch lever 4 to 5 times, hold the lever in and tighten the bleeder screw... Let out on the clutch cable. Loosen the screw, pump 4 to 5 times, tighten the screw, let out on the clutch. Repeat this until you have a full stream of brake fluid coming out of the tube with NO BUBBLES... Remember to keep the reservoir filled, as you'll be draining it when bleeding. I had to add fluid 4 or 5 times during my bleeding.
Things to keep in mind... Do not close the bleeder screw with the clutch lever OUT... And do not open it with the clutch lever pulled in.
Again... If you don't know what you're doing... Get someone that does to help you. These are things that you don't want to fail when you need them.
Not trying to be funny... pretty sure one needs to replace "brake" where you see "clutch" in these instructions.
I was able to drain my MC and bleed the entire system, with very little problem. Some ramblings that may be helpful:
In the process, you must:
fill the master cylinder
completely replace the cover and tighten down
open the bleeder, only a little
squessze and hold the brake lever
fully close the bleeder
release the brake lever
That is one cycle...
when the system is full of air you will only get air
as the brake fluid is forced down it will start to "spit"
as all the air is removed you will get a steady stream
This took me at least 30 minutes to do alone with no specialty items. I had to refill the MC about 5 times.