The right rear bolt hole is also an oil passageway, and because of that if the bolt is not able to be tightened down so the washer on the bolt can make the seal at the top it will leak oil.  
I had some stripped threads on mine after the dealership did some work on the bike.  It sort of worked for a while but over time became more and more loose and leaked more.  I finally tried finding a bolt slightly longer; even ground the head cover down a little around the hole to let the bolt go down more and catch a fresh thread or two so it could hold tight enough.  That worked fairly well for a little while but still seeped some oil, and eventually pulled those threads out.  
I ended up drilling and installing steel thread inserts  in that hole and others when I had the engine apart.
Some folks have just replaced the stock bolt with a longer threaded stud so it could go down into the deeper threads and get a good hold, put a fresh "sealing" washer on it and lock washer and a nut.  The last time I heard anyone discuss that solution they seemed to be happy with the result.
It is the quickest and easiest solution so I would give that a try first.

Just be sure you have the "sealing" washer on there when you install the bolt or stud.  I think I used a nylon washer for a while because that was what I had on hand at the time and it worked ok for me.  I'm not sure of the material makeup of the stock washer, it just needs to be able to seal the oil when everything is torqued down.

That bolt is 130mm long
sometimes a new bolt of the same length will work.
and if you intend to tap it deeper... remember that bolt is 130mm long and you'll need to extend your tap.
that washer is rubber coated, once you get the bolt to take hold, you can coat the washer with rtv to seal it if the rubber on it is no good.
as far as finding the next place to leak... sounds like he's a pessimist  

Thanks for the laugh serowbot!!

So no one objects to re-threading just the few centimeters on the valve cover? I do realize that this is a lazy ass way of doing it, but the Kawasaki dealer wants to charge me 1-150 to re-thread it the proper way (removing the head, etc etc) which I find quite ridiculous.  I'm a college boy with a budget as such, forgive me for being cheap..  

You might be able to get a heli-coil installed in there without removing the head......

Yea, the shrimp in the Gulf feel the same way.,

if nothing else works, at least ya'll got a whole lot of laughs out of me    thanks justin

as far as the leak, it appears to be solved for now. when i arrived at class this evening i noticed a strange sound tho. Like oil slushing around in the engine even after the engine is off?