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Rubber Side Down!
› this is definitely not a good sign....
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this is definitely not a good sign.... (Read 533 times)
k9500winmag
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #15 -
02/20/12 at 18:40:53
If possible find a shop that will bore it out instead of pressing or beating the old sleeve out. Boring it will slowly cut away the old one until it becomes so thin it either falls apart or you machine to original size. Pressing it out can ruin the original size of the hole by taking some surrounding metal with it, then the new one doesnt fit as tightly as it should.
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sillydilly
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #16 -
02/20/12 at 21:17:49
I wonder if one of the local bike shops here would know how to do this or where to successfully do this. in all honesty if this is going to be an expensive fix I'd almost just run the prick on a cheap fix as it was doing fine before
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Serowbot
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #17 -
02/20/12 at 21:33:02
Sorry Silly,... but it won't last long without a proper fix...
I think $50 to $100 might do it,.. plus the work of pulling the head...
It would be worth it to me...
Serow
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sillydilly
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #18 -
02/20/12 at 23:08:51
heads already pulled and dcleaned up nicely.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #19 -
02/21/12 at 00:09:01
This isnt a DIY thing unless youre an experienced & well equipped kinda guy, The $$$ to get it done right is low compared to the $$$ you could spend getting it fixed after trying to do it yourself, especially if you buy a reamer,
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sillydilly
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #20 -
02/21/12 at 13:55:03
im waiting for a call back from an automotive shop known for doing that stuff. this is starting to look like a lot of money. may as well start looking for a new head, but if I do that then a new engine, or I should just find an entire parts bike....
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Retread
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #21 -
02/23/12 at 07:23:39
Used to do it all the time.. Had an oven in my old shop, just heat up the head to about 300', then squirt a little cold water down the guide, they almost fall out.. Have your new guides ready to drop in, sometimes they take a little tap.. Reaming the new guides takes just one pass, take your new valve to the local parts store, they will fix you up with a ream.. Put new valves in with your new guides, don't forget to lap em... But the easy way is to order the new guides/valves and take it to the local engine machine shop, NAPA usually has one on site.. Probably be around fifty bucks..
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sillydilly
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #22 -
02/25/12 at 10:36:20
ive got it sent off to the auto shop for a quote, they dont know if they have that size of reamer or not.
new valves??? what do they cost and whats the benefit vs leaving them or replacing them?
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Retread
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #23 -
02/25/12 at 14:55:07
Around $80 for new valves, $50 for new guides.. Parts..
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #24 -
02/26/12 at 04:53:55
Ive watched mechanics do the valves on a car. They dont just replace every valve, they look at them & ditch the ones that need replaced, the valves in your bike are used, but I have a hard time believing theyre all ruined,,
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MMRanch
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #25 -
02/26/12 at 20:06:37
I was thinking of , like retread said : alumum head will swell up more than steel valve guide when heated , then shrink the valve guide with a few ounces of cold water , followed by a light blow from a heavy hamer and a good fitting punch
The old one should just fall out and while the heads hot , quickly pop the new one in with a light blow from a LIGHT FIBER hammer.
Thats if it were mine , however I have a well equipted Tractor-Shop.
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Retread
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #26 -
02/26/12 at 20:48:14
Just a squirt.. Once the heated head is removed from the oven (use Ma's oven mitt) just have a squirt can (like oil squirt can) filled with cold water, a punch just slightly larger than the valve stem. Have your new guide at ready, quick squirt down the center of the old guide, and a light tap.. Most of the time they fly right out, you can usually just insert the new guide and give it a light tap to seat it.. Let the head cool naturally, I have done it many times.. A little more work on the sixteen valve engines, can only do four at a time between heat ups...
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #27 -
02/26/12 at 21:09:43
The old one should just fall out and while the heads hot , quickly pop the new one in with a light blow from a LIGHT FIBER hammer.
Or, bypass the oven completely, & just give it a shot with your Light Saber.
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sillydilly
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #28 -
02/27/12 at 12:28:39
then whats with all this reaming and alignment talk? how come a few of you are against doing it yourself, while others believe its a piece of cake?
Anyway, it's sent off the auto shop for a quote. if it's too much, I can hopefully by the head from LANCER. if all else fails, I have my old powdercoating oven to heat the prick up and try it myself.
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Savage_Rob
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Re: this is definitely not a good sign....
Reply #29 -
02/27/12 at 20:14:45
Retread's idea actually makes sense to me too, even being an amateur myself. Get the whole thing hot, then cause the guide to contract by cooling it quickly, at least enough to free it. If it doesn't work, no harm... go with one of your alternate plans.
I know that's kinda how you set the float level in my Amal carb, though I don't need to get it as hot. You immerse the float bowl in boiling water for a bit, remove it and tap the brass float needle seat in the desired direction using a brass rod.
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