When you put the new lines on, or when your lines are completely empty, it'll be hard to get the fluid to flow.  Don't panic.
Loosen the top and bottom banjo and bleeder valve, then pump it or use a vacuum bleeder and just loosen the bleeder.
Once started, it'll practically flow by itself.

I made a bleed tool for doing truck brakes by myself without a pump partner that works for any hydrolic system. Really easy n cheap to make.
To change a hose: Get an old soda bottle 12 oz or bigger. 20 oz is perfect for a bike. One fuel line or similer tube that fits snugly over the bleed screw. And some string n shop rags. The tube fits over the bleed screw and should be cut two inches past where it hits the floor when attached to the bleeder. Put the hose in the soda bottle.
Open the bleeder... but just enough to bleed. If you go out to far air gets sucked in later on. Its best to apply a little pressure to the lever and open til it flows without restriction under lever pressure into the bottle.
Pump the brake until the resivour is empty. Then Squeeze caliper to spend all the old fluid. Open resivour to varify its empty and remove any forign material.
Remove brake line. Replace breakline.
Very important...Replace old spent fluid in bottle with new so tube is submerged a few inches in ...new dot4... Dispose of old fluid by capping bottle. Use a new clean bottle if possible. Fill resivour w new fluid. ...dot 4... and Pump brake slowely.
Heres why clean fluid in the bottle is vital ... At first youll see bubbles. Each time you expell air it returns the fluid you put in the soda bottle. Keep the resi full.  
Pump till bubbles stop.
Close bleeder...
best bleed ever. Cant be beat!
Note: use the string to keep the bottle upright by hanging it from the bars.
the shop rags will come in handy when you dont use the string.
This works on any vehicle without help.
Good luck!
Enjoy

not sure if they make them in the right size for the savage but check out speedbleeders.. they make bleeding the brakes effortless and you can do it by yourself. i changed to them on my truck and wow i wish i had done it earlier

il67bp wrote on 02/17/12 at 19:11:17:

I picked one up cheap at Harbor Freight and it works just fine but you have to be careful because they can suck it out FAST and you'll just be pulling air.

You guys make this harder than it has to be.

Put a clear hose long enough to reach the master cylinder on the slightly opened bleeder screw. Hold the loose end of the hose in the m/c reservoir under the fluid level & squeeze the brake lever until you have a solid stream of fluid in the hose. Do not let the free end come out of the fluid while you're doing this. Once there are no bubbles in the hose, close the bleeder & using a rag remove your bleeder hose, first at m/c, then at bleeder. If you do this right, you won't have a mess to clean up & you will have the firmest brake ever.

Works every time for me.....  

I have to agree with RidgeRunner, bleeding the brakes is not that hard. I didn't have a long enough piece of hose to run it back to the master cylinder like he suggested, but I had about a 2' section of hose that I used pointing it up letting it fill with fluid while forcing out the bubbles.

So, now I have my new SS brake line installed and bled. When I pulled the caliper, I saw how worn the pads were and was thankful I had already purchased a pair of new pads. Those were TOAST!!! And I don't think they were the original ones either (bike has a little over 8,000 miles)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions