After some low-productivity times, the production line for Double-RYCA build is probably going to get moving again.  The next order of business is the electrical system.  I have all the plugs and wires identified, labeled, and in their approximate positions.

For a 2002 Savage being RYCA-ized, is there something tidy to do with these items?
-- Decompression solenoid controller
-- Side stand relay -- take it off?
-- Side stand diode -- remove it?  leave it wired in?
-- Side stand switch -- remove it? jump the terminals in the connector?

My understanding is that for most RYCA builds, these things just stay on the bike and are taped off and hidden. (Sbaugz gave me that info) 

Wouldn't it be tidier, though, if they could be removed, and the wiring "adjusted" somewhat so their removal would allow normal operation of the rest of the electrical system.

I half way considered using one of the hugely simplified home-built wiring systems archived here, but that would take a lot longer and with my luck I'd have to spend days sorting it out after installing it.

Anyway, if any of you have ideas about how to tidy things up electrically, without a large increase in time required, I'd like to know about them.

Thanks.

Savage_Rob wrote on 01/25/12 at 09:41:40:


I had that thought,too, but I'm at the point where I just want to be done with this.  Building a new simplified wiring harness would take a few evenings at least, and then I'd have to troubleshoot it after installation which would add some more time.

Gyrobob wrote on 01/25/12 at 10:41:40:


True.  It's something I probably won't do until I do a full stripdown for repaint, etc. and rebuild it with new wiring... or if the existing were to be damaged enough that it would take a significant amount of time to repair.  Right now, just regular maintenance for the most part.

Yaz, oh but do remember youll need to get it oot carefully, dear.

I've wired a lot of bikes and it's better to remove what you don't need rather than starting from scratch.  

I answered your queston about the sidestand circuit in your other post, which you might have missed. To repeat:  

You can remove the sidestand switch and join the two wires to make a constant ground.

Or, you can then get rid of those two wires and the sidestand relay, as they are no longer needed. At the relay connect the wires going to the #3 (orange/blue) and #4 (orange) terminals. Remove the unused wires going to the #1 (green) and #2 (orange) terminals.  

Next you can remove the sidestand diode. It is part of the sidestand ignition-lock-out (or “interlock”) system which is no longer functional as you’ve removed the sidestand switch. Connect the wire that goes to the neutral switch (blue) to the wire going to the neutral indicator light (not sure of color). The third wire (orange?) is part of the sidestand switch/relay circuit and can be eliminated.  



Gyrobob wrote on 01/25/12 at 09:21:58:

RYCA surmises this proposed mod to remove the decomp controller will work.  Are they right?

I'm going to go ahead and make this mod.  No one has pointed out any potential problems.

I received a couple of PMs saying it would work.  RYCA said they see nothing wrong with it.  Dave even suggested I take out all the wiring to and from the decomp controller,... sounds like an even better (though more work) solution.

The least amount of work would seem to be just unplugging the big lump of decomp controller and inserting a jumper in the plug.

I just temporarily wired up the power and starter circuits to do a preliminary check.  The ignition and lights are not hooked up.

I clamped the clutch lever to the pulled in position.

I jumped the sidestand relay connectors in the green plug that used to hook up to the sidestand switch.

When I turned the ignition sw to "on" you can hear a tiny click.  Then when I push the starter button, the starter engages and starts to turn the motor over.  I engaged the starter button for less than a second each time, just to verify the starter is trying to turn the motor over, which it is.

Now, what puzzles me is why the jumper in the sidestand switch plug has no effect.  The starter tries to crank the motor whether or not the sidestand plug is jumped.  I would have thought connecting the blkW wire to the Gr wire going to the sidestand switch plug would have made a difference.  The starter motor engages with those wired connected or separated.

What gives?