Most composition gaskets such as you described require no sealers. Ones that do usually include specific directions on which product to use or include that product with the gasket. Even most of the all metal multi-layer gaskets available now use no sealer.

I think you would be safe installing it as is, with no sealer. Hard to say for sure without seeing the gasket, though.

Does the gasket manufacturer have a website where you could check?
Or maybe a tech line number to call? That would be the only other things I can think of to find out.

HTH.

That's what we used to use on the early versions of composition head gaskets. I don't believe it would hurt to use it.

What did you mean by compression piping? Is it the silicone type (usually red) surrounding the cylinders & various passages between the block & head? Or is it the raised metal type?

Then yes, I would defintely feel comfortable using copper coat. I prefer the spray kind for head gaskets.

It's kind of funny, the man I worked for learning the mechanic trade 44 years ago prefered copper coat. Not many things stand the test of time.

He also prefered Champion spark plugs. He used to tell me "AC builds plugs for GM, Autolite for Ford, & Champion makes plugs for the rest of the world."

He liked to use what was then called "Shalers' Rislone" for engines with noisy lifters. It usually worked, too.

I think the most important thing he ever told me, and something that has served me well, was " An engine doesn't know whose name is on it, or how many cylinders it has. It will run if it has fuel,air,compression, & a spark at the right time."
So far I've worked on everything from singles all the way to a Jag V-12.

Strange how one little thing can trigger those old memories.

this is an old style beauty
iron flat head, just bolts and sparkplugs.
iron block is structural, no frame.

the bolts don't stretch, the gasket compresses
and you have to retorque it after the 1st use.

20 hp... 84 ft.lbs of torque at 1500 rpm!

While I’m certainly on expert on the flat heads, I have worked on a few. In my experience either way will work. I have used a sealer but in general I have grown to like “clean and dry” for most gaskets. Check block and head for being flat and clean the threads and watch your torques.

I saw something several years ago about county fair event where farmers would “race” their old tractors. It is amazing how slow that this engine will run. The slowest one wins by being the last one to cross the finish line without killing the engine. Kind-a-neat.

I did a bit of research on it out of curiosity, and found that if you do use a seal use copper, but from what I read it wasn't necessary... but that was just from farmers on several forums.. eh heh...  

thanks for all the advice.

what worried me the most was the wet bolt holes as this is why we're putting in a new one anyway.

the 'kid' that runs it knows it has a problem but would run it till it over heated then quit for the day.  same dumb a$$ that lost the keys too.

Yet they all go 'oh no, dad is working on the tractor again'  cause it takes him a couple of weeks to fix whatever they've busted on it or just general maintenance.

boofer, what rebuild another one?