Wombat, My third step was not correct. The pedal / arm adjustment will not change travel only reposition as to your foot requirement.  Have Fun! Phantom

Wombat: No, step two is correct, however you are not following what I am saying. The more you move the brake cam relative to the lever forward you are decreasing the travel before brake/drum contact. If you held the brake lever at the same angle and rotated the cam with the scribe line one or two serrations counterclock wise and reconnected you would be closer to brake shoe/drum contact. This would decrease your brake pedal travel. I don't really agree with the term. but RYCA calls this preload. Remember you are looking for about a 1/4 in forward brake lever travel before the brake makes contact with the drum.  Have  fun!  Phantom

Wombat, Yes a picture is worth a thousand words. But thanks for you reassurance.  Have Fun  Phantom

Here's a thought. The more the tab on the pedal angles toward the back, rather that sticking straight up, the more the tab is moving upward rather than forward when the pedal is pressed. (It takes forward movement to pull the lever on the drum, right?) If the tab is moving upward, it takes more pedal travel to move the tab enough to engage the brake. So if the tab isn't already nearly straight up, set it so it is, then readjust the lever on the drum so it connects to the rod, which is now further forward.

Another thing effecting brake setup is the position of the axle. The brake rod is a fixed length (unless you modify it). So if the wheel/axle assembly is more forward or rearward in order to tension the belt (or chain) properly, it changes the angles of the brake actuation lever and the tab on the pedal.

I'm doing a chain conversion, so I have more options regarding axle position. Here's mine set up with the axle tick mark at the farthest reference line.





Travel in the brake actuation lever is about 3/16". The travel at the end of the pedal is about 3/4". I might need to change the angle of the pedal once I get the seat on and sit in riding position.

If I needed to move the rear wheel/axle forward, I'd have to angle the brake actuation lever more to the rear -- or shorten the rod and rethread the end. Angling the actuation lever further back makes the spring useless. But I don't think it's really necessary, because the internal brake springs are pulling on the shoes, which make the cam and lever want to snap back into place.