Your mechanic is "shotgunning" the front brake issue unnecessarily. That rotor isn't shot unless you let the pads wear slam completely out and the rotor is heavily scored by rubbing against the steel backing pad for a period of time. You can look straight parallel to the rotor and you can actually see if you have pad material left -- if so order some cheap pads and do it yourself.
The rotor by itself is over $100 -- generally speaking rotors last through 3-4 sets of pads before even becoming worn to Suzuki's very conservative specs.
Ebay or EBC front pads (either kind) cost about $30 and you clean the old surface up on the rotor with some hand applied sandpaper to remove the old glazing. EBC or Ebay kevlar pads will stop your noise issue.
Mechanic is closer on the rear brakes -- they last 4 times longer than the fronts do and all you have to do to them is remove the dust whenever you have to put on a new tire.
Age cracked tires
that hold air reliably are real world "good to go" to wear out the rest of their contact rubber. Remember, the inner tube is what holds the air on our bikes, not the tire itself.
Mechanic may be spoofing you a bit on the tire thing, but then again "tire mfgs recommend replacing age checked sidewall tires". Now this is true enough, but one wonders if they aren't serving themselves a bit by that recommendation on a tube based tire ....
(it does make good sense on a tubeless tire, BTW)
We do have a black box which is a preset thing, we do not have a programmable "computer" that can be Power Commandered like a sports bike can.
To imply he can "adjust" your computer is completely fraudulent .... and NO he can't "tune your bike" unless he just sticks you for a spark plug you didn't need as well.
Everything electronic is preset and NONADJUSTABLE as far as tuning goes.
Now, as far the peacock thing -- click modify on that post and as the owner of that post you can go in and fix it. Then you can delete your last one as unnecessary and nobody will be the wiser ....
Lord knows I typo enough stuff to know how to do that little trick, I've been known to go back and find stuff I screwed up a day or so later and I'll go back in and fix it ....
Watch Verslagen's last post and he'll show you how to fix a typo
-- he's on his phone again, you can tell.
Really, get your bike back away from that proctologist mechanic and start working on it yourself !!!!.......... or if he's already into your bike for hundreds of dollars, at least get him to give you a cigarette and an "HIV clean certificate" after he's finished having his fun with you. 
Absofockinglutely insist on getting all of your old parts back -- I want them as there isn't anything much wrong with them !!!!
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