babyhog wrote on 08/02/11 at 08:59:58:..But if you've drilled through the screw, have you wallowed around and boogered any part of the threads too? Or is the screw still protecting the threads? .
AZSGT's photo isn't clear enough to really tell, therefore we're free to offer up armchair, manly solutions!
Here's what I'd do:
1) Order a new fuel screw. If the old one is still airtight enough for the bike to run well, a new one can be made to work, albeit maybe with a little pipe thread compound or some of that silver anti-seize grease.
2) Take the carb out of the bike so you can get some good light on it, and any further tapping/drilling/picking can be done much more accurately.
3) Use a dental pick or fine needlenose pliers to dig out the remainder of the brass plug.
4) With the screw pointed down, blast out the hole with PBlaster or Seafoam DeepCreep so that any filings are washed out. Pick out any stubborn filings with a toothpick.
5) Turn the screw/hole up vertical and fill it with the same pen.oil and let it sit for a day or so.
6) Get a small easy-out and tap it in with nothing heavier than a screwdriver handle. Since it's brass you're tapping into (and little torque will be applied) you don't need an expensive easy-out. Just get a cheap one from Autozone.
7) Unscrew the old boogered screw, install your new fuel screw, tune and go ride.
If any further drilling is needed to make the easy-out bite, get a left-handed drill bit and use a drill press to make sure the hole is dead center. Even if your drilling is perfectly centered, you don't want the drill bit to bite and cram the screw all the way down. That will mess up the seat that the screw/needle beds into. So any drilling of the screw should be done counterclockwise.
Good luck.. this isn't as gripping as Serowbot's sink repair, but we still want to know what happens.
What if once the carb is off and apart, can I go through the ass end of that opening and clear everything from inside the carb instead of that tiny mucked up opening?
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