Very much doubt it... unless the JB had some amount of ridge to bite into, and if you had the ridge, you could do better to snag it with a screwdriver of some kind...

I think the screwdriver idea is worth a shot,you may have better luck getting some bite using a torqs (star shaped) screwdriver.if you can't find one that's a perfect fit grind it down to a taper until it fits in the hole (I'd guess you prob need a T15 or T20 size).if you have a harbor freight store nearby buy the screwdriver there so you don't feel so bad about grinding it down.most extractors will just spread the brass out tighter in the bore as you turn,and if it should break off inside then you're really in for some hair pulling as it's near impossible to drill through the extractor.  

ralfyguy wrote on 08/01/11 at 16:12:17:




I can shape a bit, Im just not following your description,, Can you be clear? You talking about the angle from center to edge of the bit? Or how much relief follows the cutting edge?

The screw is useless now anyway, so drill it deeper with a small drill.

Here’s a pic of the screw extractor set I bought from Sears decades ago.  The small extractor on the right uses a 1/16” drill (shown far right) for the hole it needs to grab on to a misbehaving screw.  You may still have enough metal left to go a little deeper with a 1/16” drill.

You don’t need much torque,… all you need is enough purchase for the screw extractor to grab on to the thing.

Good luck.

I have a question (read that as female asking a dumb mecahnical question lol) and I'm not even sure how to phrase it.  But if you've drilled through the screw, have you wallowed around and boogered any part of the threads too?  Or is the screw still protecting the threads?  I guess I'm wondering even if you get the screw out, is the hole too far gone for a replacement screw.

babyhog wrote on 08/02/11 at 08:59:58:

AZSGT's photo isn't clear enough to really tell, therefore we're free to offer up armchair, manly solutions!  

Here's what I'd do:
 
1) Order a new fuel screw.  If the old one is still airtight enough for the bike to run well, a new one can be made to work, albeit maybe with a little pipe thread compound or some of that silver anti-seize grease.

2) Take the carb out of the bike so you can get some good light on it, and any further tapping/drilling/picking can be done much more accurately.

3) Use a dental pick or fine needlenose pliers to dig out the remainder of the brass plug.

4) With the screw pointed down, blast out the hole with PBlaster or Seafoam DeepCreep so that any filings are washed out.  Pick out any stubborn filings with a toothpick.

5) Turn the screw/hole up vertical and fill it with the same pen.oil and let it sit for a day or so.

6) Get a small easy-out and tap it in with nothing heavier than a screwdriver handle.  Since it's brass you're tapping into (and little torque will be applied) you don't need an expensive easy-out.  Just get a cheap one from Autozone.

7) Unscrew the old boogered screw, install your new fuel screw, tune and go ride.

If any further drilling is needed to make the easy-out bite, get a left-handed drill bit and use a drill press to make sure the hole is dead center.  Even if your drilling is perfectly centered, you don't want the drill bit to bite and cram the screw all the way down.  That will mess up the seat that the screw/needle beds into.  So any drilling of the screw should be done counterclockwise.

Good luck.. this isn't as gripping as Serowbot's sink repair, but we still want to know what happens.

as Boule'tard said,"If any further drilling is needed to make the easy-out bite, get a left-handed drill bit ..."

Excellent idea.



Now,... where did I put those??,....