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splicing wires (Read 417 times)
BobR
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splicing wires
07/16/11 at 05:26:27
 
Years ago I put stereos in my cars and lights in the van (and carpet and bed and cupboards etc). I cut the insulation off the end of the wires, twisted the wires together and wrapped it with electrical tape. I want to add lights to my Savage and suspect my old method will not last being open to the elements. Any suggestions as to where and how to splice properly?
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #1 - 07/16/11 at 05:31:04
 
solder then rubber elect tape then shrink tube

crimp splices liquid brush on elect tape



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Re: splicing wires
Reply #2 - 07/16/11 at 06:00:59
 
Is that an either or?? If I want to splice in to the back brake light, do I join it where it goes into the brake light or cut the wire a few inches from the light or the other end where it goes to the switch? Pretty sure I could do it but I want to do it right the first time.
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #3 - 07/16/11 at 09:14:47
 
Easiest to use crimp connectors, then brush or dip into WM liquid tape.

But if you're wanting cosmedic perfection, connect it inside lite if possible. Not really right or wrong either way.
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #4 - 07/16/11 at 11:09:08
 
thumperclone wrote on 07/16/11 at 05:31:04:
solder then rubber elect tape then shrink tube

crimp splices liquid brush on elect tape




I don't like crimps if they will be subject to the elements because they are dissimilar metals and oxidization can occur. When I inline splice I solder and use adhesive type shrink tube. When I splice more than two wires together I use the adhesive shrink tube and also dip it in liquid electrical tape. Then it's completely waterproof.
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #5 - 07/16/11 at 13:40:18
 
ul listed crimps are compatable with cu.cu.al.al,&cu.al splices as long as they are stranded conductors..
some come with a wp dielectric grease which should be used on al wire
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #6 - 07/16/11 at 14:18:14
 
thumperclone wrote on 07/16/11 at 13:40:18:
ul listed crimps are compatable with cu.cu.al.al,&cu.al splices as long as they are stranded conductors..
some come with a wp dielectric grease which should be used on al wire

Sorry but no one will ever convince me that any crimp is better than solder.
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #7 - 07/17/11 at 05:49:33
 
arteacher wrote on 07/16/11 at 14:18:14:
thumperclone wrote on 07/16/11 at 13:40:18:
ul listed crimps are compatable with cu.cu.al.al,&cu.al splices as long as they are stranded conductors..
some come with a wp dielectric grease which should be used on al wire

Sorry but no one will ever convince me that any crimp is better than solder.


Sorry, arteacher, but you are holding on to your feelings, rather than facts.  You must be a liberal.   oooops,... sorry,... I digressed.   Embarrassed

In aviation, the preferred method is crimping.  With the proper stuff, dissimilar metal corrosion is not a factor, the fatigue resistance is greater, and it requires less work/craftsmanship to make the joint.

I will admit, the guy who buys his stuff from Big Lots or from some Chinese vendor on ebay, will not only have crappy stuff that will corrode eventually, it will also fatigue, and probably won't hold the crimp properly anyway.

Soldering, though, requires some skill, and more equipment.  It is easy to get cold joints, too much solder, incorrect flux, ruined insolation, etc.  It is cheaper, though,.. and done properly, has a tidier look to it.

With either method, heat shrink tubing is a good idea.  With soldered joints, I put on a layer of electrical tape, then heat shrink over that, specifically to restrict the motion at the joint for fatigue resistance.

Now with all this going back and forth over which is better, either is fine, as long as you do it properly,.... so there is no reason to get our panties all wadded up over the issue.

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Re: splicing wires
Reply #8 - 07/17/11 at 06:03:35
 
I used to be a solder fanatic in my younger days, but I,......myself have never had a crimp fail, even on my boat trailers in salt water for many years.
In my senior years now, simplicity has taken priority, especially when most times the KISS method will outperform the complicated.
And ever since I used WMs liquid tape a few years ago, I'm kind of  a crimp and L tape fanitic Shocked
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #9 - 07/17/11 at 06:21:49
 
Routy wrote on 07/17/11 at 06:03:35:
I used to be a solder fanatic in my younger days, but I,......myself have never had a crimp fail, even on my boat trailers in salt water for many years.
In my senior years now, simplicity has taken priority, especially when most times the KISS method will outperform the complicated.
And ever since I used WMs liquid tape a few years ago, I'm kind of  a crimp and L tape fanitic Shocked  



Zackly.

Here's a thought,..... assuming two guys have all the stuff in front of them ready to splice a couple of wires, how long will it take the crimper to do the splice compared to the solderer?
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #10 - 07/17/11 at 06:31:14
 
Gyrobob wrote on 07/17/11 at 05:49:33:
arteacher wrote on 07/16/11 at 14:18:14:
thumperclone wrote on 07/16/11 at 13:40:18:
ul listed crimps are compatable with cu.cu.al.al,&cu.al splices as long as they are stranded conductors..
some come with a wp dielectric grease which should be used on al wire

Sorry but no one will ever convince me that any crimp is better than solder.


Sorry, arteacher, but you are holding on to your feelings, rather than facts.  You must be a liberal.   oooops,... sorry,... I digressed.   Embarrassed

In aviation, the preferred method is crimping.  With the proper stuff, dissimilar metal corrosion is not a factor, the fatigue resistance is greater, and it requires less work/craftsmanship to make the joint.

I will admit, the guy who buys his stuff from Big Lots or from some Chinese vendor on ebay, will not only have crappy stuff that will corrode eventually, it will also fatigue, and probably won't hold the crimp properly anyway.

Soldering, though, requires some skill, and more equipment.  It is easy to get cold joints, too much solder, incorrect flux, ruined insolation, etc.  It is cheaper, though,.. and done properly, has a tidier look to it.

With either method, heat shrink tubing is a good idea.  With soldered joints, I put on a layer of electrical tape, then heat shrink over that, specifically to restrict the motion at the joint for fatigue resistance.

Now with all this going back and forth over which is better, either is fine, as long as you do it properly,.... so there is no reason to get our panties all wadded up over the issue.


My panties are not wadded up. I speak from experience. I have been an electronics hobbyist for years, and worked installing automotive electronics as well. In my experience properly done solder joints do not fail, and properly done crimps do, especially in corrosive environments. I will agree that crimps are useful if and only if you can't solder for one reason or another. And you have to be very careful with dialectic grease, as it can travel and cause shorts, and has a finite lifespan (dries out eventually). And a properly done crimp has a slightly higher resistance than a properly done solder joint, which is more important in low voltage high current apps. Why do you think that it is suggested that you unplug and replug connectors every so often?
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #11 - 07/17/11 at 06:45:25
 
Laying on the bench, I can splice a wire with a crimp( no heat shrink) in no more than 15 seconds. With heat shrink, add 20 to 25.
Solder, everything on the bench & ready to go, I can do that in about 30 secs.  & that includes stripping the wires & cutting the heat shrink to fit.
BUt,, when workin on a bike, the odds of finding a splice that can be made on the bench go WAY down.. so, it would take longer & I would probably not get to use the same soldering equipment I was thinking of in the above instance, so, Id have to wait for the gas powered soldering iron tip to heat up or drag out a cord. On the bench I remove the soldering tip & just use the little blue flame,
& I do have the real, electricians wire strippers, not just those flat things that have the crimpers built in,, & I sure like them. Wish I woulda spent that $$$ years ago.

Ill use crimps or solder, depends on the location & application,
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Re: splicing wires
Reply #12 - 07/17/11 at 07:49:04
 
Isn't it strange that there is not a non printed electrical panel in the world that has 1 drop of solder in it,........yet every connection in it is a crimp,.....w/ I'd bet a 9999999999999.9 % non failure rate.

In the automotive field,...before all printed circuits, you will not find 1 drop of solder behind an instrument panel, but there is thousands of non fail crimp connections. I don't think its the price of solder, because its all soldered printed circuits nowdays. And I don't think its the labor either, because thats a toss up....as has been said.

Oh, BTW, there is a big difference between a slip connection, than a crimp connection. The slip plug on printed circuits are proned to corrosion after 10 to 20 yrs,......and then only if exposed to outside elements.
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« Last Edit: 07/17/11 at 21:04:01 by Routy »  

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Re: splicing wires
Reply #13 - 07/17/11 at 11:27:04
 
Arteacher said, "My panties are not wadded up."  No one said they were.  My only point about wadded up panties was that crimp or solder, it makes very little diff, there is no point arguing about it,....  to each his own,....  whatever lights your candle,... etc.   Sorry you interpreted it as an insult.

He also said, "In my experience properly done solder joints do not fail, and properly done crimps do, especially in corrosive environments."   I would submit that the crimp joints to which you refer were not properly done.  

He also said, "I will agree that crimps are useful if and only if you can't solder for one reason or another."   No one asked you to agree with this.  That would be silly.  It would be like asking you to agree that listening to Beethoven at 90db damages your ears less than listening to Stevie Ray Vaughan at 70db.

He also said, "...you have to be very careful with dialectic grease, as it can travel and cause shorts, and has a finite lifespan (dries out eventually)."  Another silly point because we don't use grease on crimped joints.  Connectors,... maybe,.. but not joints.  Also, I am perplexed by your use of the term "dialectic" which means logical argumentation,... a term seldom applied to grease.  Perhaps you meant "dielectric" which refers to a material that will not conduct electricity.  (if it is dielectric, how could it cause a short?)

He also said, "And a properly done crimp has a slightly higher resistance than a properly done solder joint..."  Not true.

He also said, "..it is suggested that you unplug and replug connectors every so often?"  Irrelevant.  Apples and oranges.  Connectors and joints.  Are you suggesting we crimp and uncrimp the joints every so often?


Smiley  Wink  Cheesy  Grin  Roll Eyes

(please note all the smileys above,... they are put there to indicate I was tongue-in-cheek with most of the response.  Irreverance, not sarcasm,..)
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« Last Edit: 07/17/11 at 13:51:24 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: splicing wires
Reply #14 - 07/17/11 at 12:38:41
 
Sorry Gyro- I forgot myself and had the tenacity to disagree with you again. Embarrassed
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