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Start problem on a Ryca Kit (Read 168 times)

zoeman YaBB Newbies Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 12 Oxford, PA Gender:	Start problem on a Ryca Kit 07/07/11 at 20:09:41 I finished the wiring on my Ryca Kit and everything is operational except for starting the engine. I can hear a clicking sound (solenoid?) but the engine won't turn over. Battery is showing 12.4 volts under load. I did have the side cases off to polish them. Any ideas?
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Gyrobob Serious Thumper Offline Posers ain't motorcyclists Posts: 2571 Newnan, GA Gender:	Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit Reply #1 - 07/07/11 at 20:24:55 Is the wiring on your solenoid attached thusly?
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zoeman YaBB Newbies Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 12 Oxford, PA Gender:	Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit Reply #2 - 07/08/11 at 05:07:03 Thanks for the help and I will check that this evening!
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runrun Junior Member Offline Thump thump Posts: 77 Erie, CO	Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit Reply #3 - 07/13/11 at 08:13:38 is the clicking sound you hear just one or two clicks or does it keep going? if you only get one or two clicks, that might be one or both of your 20 amp fuses blowing. that's what i'm trying to sort out now. no changes except the ryca mods to the wiring, but now the fuses blow when the ignition switch is turned to "on"
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Bubba

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Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit
Reply #4 - 07/13/11 at 08:54:23

I'm guessing that when you had the side covers off you put the washer that goes on the thrust gear in the wrong spot. That causes the gear to bind against the side cover on the left side of the bike.

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/CRANKCASE_COVER/MakeID/2/Make/Su...

The part is #2

This seems to be a common problem since the washer just drops out of the case when you remove the cover...PITA

'06 lt Blue, Dyna Power pipe, air screw 2 1/4 turns, 52.5 pilot w/ bleed holes, 150 Main, 2/3 spacer, Pirelli MT66 tires, Raptor petcock, 412-4006 Progressive shocks

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zoeman

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Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit
Reply #5 - 07/13/11 at 19:45:32

Thanks for the heads up on the washer! I will take the case off and check that also! We did run a ground wire from the engine to the relocated ground wire and that solved the electrical gremlins - the erratic neutral light and the solenoid issue. Also found the battery was dropping to 7 volts under load. Ordered a new battery and will continue to trouble shoot.

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zoeman YaBB Newbies Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 12 Oxford, PA Gender:	Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit Reply #6 - 07/13/11 at 20:50:38 Bubba, thanks for the heads up on the washer ... removed the side cover and you were correct - no washer. Another problem solved and thank you very much!
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Bubba Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 956 Denver, CO Gender:	Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit Reply #7 - 07/14/11 at 06:22:21 Glad it worked out. It sounded like the same problem I had on a 500 dollar CL basket case...
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sbaugz

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Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit
Reply #8 - 07/14/11 at 08:22:33

runrun wrote on 07/13/11 at 08:13:38:

is the clicking sound you hear just one or two clicks or does it keep going? if you only get one or two clicks, that might be one or both of your 20 amp fuses blowing.

that's what i'm trying to sort out now. no changes except the ryca mods to the wiring, but now the fuses blow when the ignition switch is turned to "on"

I had the same problem with fuses blowing. Check your connectors in the wiring harness. There are two sets Of connectors that are interchangeable . I had mine connected wrong and fuses blew each time I turned on ignition. I swapped the connections and problem solved.

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runrun

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Re: Start problem on a Ryca Kit
Reply #9 - 07/15/11 at 02:08:26

sbaugz, my starting problem seems to have been caused by the way the rectifier/regulator is mounted to the battery box.

i read a post somewhere here about starting problems after relocating the r/r due to the fact that in the new location it's not as isolated from the metal that it's mounted to as it was in the original rear fender location.

my understanding is that with a solid state component like the r/r, the outer case, in order to act as a heat sink for stuff inside, is "live" and so will ground if improperly mounted.

anyway, as soon as i unmounted the r/r from the battery box, no more blown fuses, engine turns over, and all the lights etc. work. i'm planning to remount the r/r using super velcro, like the cdi box.

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