Some post-build issues:
1. I don't have the carburetion just right yet. We are a sea level using a 155 main/55 pilot. We had the air/fuel mixture screw at 2 full turns out from seating. Too rich. We are trying just over 1 full turn out now. Ryan told me today he is using 152.5/52.5 at sea level in LA and it's running strong.

2. The socket head bolt on the top left of the rear set bracket is making light contact with the drive belt edge. I purchased a button head bolt of the same size and will try that.

3. The thumbscrews that attach the side covers are small and the access for the two top ones is tight. The one on the top left side would not stay tightened and now has vibrated away and is lost. I am working on a different way of attaching the left side cover. I believe I will use the kit glue to attach a small bracket to the inside top left of it and run zip ties through it and around the frame. Another idea is velcro tape. Ryan said he uses Loctite on them and tightens them with pliers.

4. The kit muffler is loud. We took it apart and replaced the packing with high quality Moose Racing packing. That helped a little. We will be fitting a stainless steel crumb cup (1.5" diameter) to the outlet end of the baffle. This is reported elsewhere as being effective for the EMGO reverse cone shorty muffler (Google 'crumb cup mod emgo muffler'). I had a state patrol man right behind me the other evening. I was ever so careful with the throttle. He did not bother me, but I was worried.

5. I've drained the carb bowl twice. There was quite of bit of sediment from the tank modifications.

BuckRYCA wrote on 06/22/11 at 12:31:04:


This would affect your jetting, no?

Yes, MotoBuddha, the crumb cup mod may affect the jetting and that will have to be taken into account, but it's also reported to increase torque with the EMGO shorty muffler.

For the side covers, the problem is the upper thumbscrews. Access is tight. I was thinking of using the remainder of the kit glue - either to attach a small bracket to the inside of the upper corner of the cover through which I would thread a zip-tie and fasten to the frame. Or to attach velcro tape to the backside of the side cover.

Gyrobob: I've got an in-line fuel filter in addition to my Raptor petcock filter. The sediment that's finding its way to the carburetor bowl is ultra fine. It may clog a paper filter element.

Also another issue I forgot to mention:  During our build we found that the kit-supplied 1/2″ machine screws (RM-0042, #8-32 x 1/2″) were too short to engage the rubber insulated rivet nuts (RM-0036). This required a visit to Lowes to purchase #8-32 x 3/4″ machine screws which did the trick.

Since my tank rusted a little on the inside between the time I stripped it and the time I got it back, I'm going to de-rust it and epoxy coat the inside. I'm thinking that should take care of whatever might be inside.

BuckRYCA wrote on 06/22/11 at 12:31:04:


I picked up a crumb cup today.



I suppose the usual way to install it is down in the end of the baffle, like this:



(Like my little screw drawings?) When it's like this, the holes on the side of the crumb cup are pretty much up against the inner wall of the baffle, so not much air is flowing through the side holes. This would be the quietest way to do it.

But if you want a little more flow/noise, I'm thinking you could flip the cup around, like this:



What I'd really like to figure out, though, is a way to mount it in the end of the cone so it would stay in place but, when the mood strikes, it could be easily removed without taking off the cone.