Warning from the Future !!! (from after the fact)
This towing your bike out of your open trunk idea isn't a very good one. As a matter of fact, it sucks big time .... The issues focus around the high center of gravity of the towed bike and the fact that going around a turn causes the bike to tilt. In the trunk position the center of gravity is so high that the bike tilts over and tries to hit the bumper when making a simple 90 degree turn.
This roll over from the trunk position is so severe the bike doesn't always manage to straighten back up all the way once the turn is over.
Lastly,
the Harbor Freight bike chock isn't tight enough on the front tire to support this roll over shite. There is room for the tire to slide over in the chock and when this happens any compression on the front forks wants to relieve itself and the result is a strong sideways binding condition between bike, car, chock and the front wheel assembly.
The front wheel assembly is what loses out in this scenario, you can/will warp your front wheel some during a turn/tilt over episode. This results in time spent spoke truing your front tire and whapping your rotor with a BFH and a block of wood to remove the run out of rotor and rim. And all this damage was done at barely moving speeds, I shudder to think of what road speeds would do to a front wheel (rip the sucker apart, most likely).
If you wish to pursue these sorts of ideas, try using Verslagen's trick of removing the front wheel and hard mounting the front axle ---
and try to keep the center of gravity as low as possible to keep the tilt monster at bay.
Idea is rated Dumb, Dubious and Dangerous .... don't do it unless you like fiddling with spokes, truing wheels etc========================================
Before I spend any real effort or $$$ money chasing down this idea, I thought I'd let the brain trust here on the list poke holes in the basic concepts (if there are holes are available to poke).
General Concept:Open your trunk on your normal family sedan all the way ....
Slip an inverted wooden "U" shaped channel over the bottom lip of the trunk ....
(bolt it down with a couple of bolts to make sure it can't jump up and go anywhere when you hit a bump, etc.)
On top of that inverted "U" firmly mount a Harbor Freight motorcycle chock ....
Now, get a buddy to help you lift the front wheel of your Savage into the chock, tie it down to the chock and the car such that the front wheel isn't going anywhere and restrain the handle bars so they can't tilt or rotate (compress the front shocks at least half way). Front wheel is restrained, handle bars are held true to the front wheel, mobile part of the front end is fixed relative to the trunk but body of the bike is completely free to rotate and tilt as road conditions require it to move.
The bike is held front wheel high at about a 35 degree angle, the oil in the sump has shifted backwards and the clutch/small pulley output shaft and associated gear clusters (which spins on large ball bearings BTW on all shafts) is under water in an oil bath. Bike is in neutral, real wheel is free spinning but will be turning the same rpm it would if ridden at the same speed it is being towed, as will the belt and small pulley.
Throw a rolled up sleeping bag over the front fender and tie down the trunk good so it won't be flopping around at highway speeds.
Make the trip up to the Dragon driving 80+ mph on the interstates sitting in complete luxury & comfort in an AC'd automobile.
Have a car up there in case we need a beer run (or a bleeder run).
So far, DON'T HIT POT HOLES, DON'T BACK UP and DON'T TURN SUPER SHARP is the only flies in the ointment I've come up with.