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tank removal (Read 134 times)
wombat
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tank removal
05/08/11 at 11:40:26
 
I'm new to this bike, so pardon my ignorance, but do you really have to remove the petcock to take the tank off?! How is this done without swimming in gas? Siphon first and then let the substantial amount that is always left just flood out? This can't be right? Or is it? Any tricks? Any other quirks to getting the tank away from the frame?

Dave
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Russ130
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Re: tank removal
Reply #1 - 05/08/11 at 11:44:41
 
no you just have to pull it towards the back and left of the bike it will come but can be a real pia
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Re: tank removal
Reply #2 - 05/08/11 at 11:48:55
 

No, you take it off the first time the hard way, struggling to find an alignment that will let it move up and out off the rubber mount pins without scratching your frame up a bunch with the stock petcock.

Or you can drain the gas and pull the stock petcock off first which allows you to take it off without struggling.  And yes, the gas is a mess.

Then you eventually replace the stock petcock with a Raptor and don't have any issues from then on.


(Recommended:  Replace stock vac actuated petcock with Raptor to avoid future issues with a whole host of conflicting this and that symptoms that seem to be carb or electrical related but are not.)

ease of use is simply a side benefit
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Re: tank removal
Reply #3 - 05/08/11 at 12:34:57
 
Russ130 wrote on 05/08/11 at 11:44:41:
no you just have to pull it towards the back and left of the bike it will come but can be a real pia

Pull the rear up and to the left, wiggle the rear left and right pushing the front backward, you'll feel it get loose, then lift, set it on top of the frame and disconnect the electrical.
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Re: tank removal
Reply #4 - 05/08/11 at 12:51:32
 
Verslagen1's got it!  It's a pregnant dog the first couple times then you get used to it. Wink
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Re: tank removal
Reply #5 - 05/08/11 at 12:52:50
 
Lol, pregnant dog, yup thats exactly what I typed! Grin
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My ride is a 2005 LS650, customized with ISO grips, cone air filter, stage 1 jets, Jardine exhaust, solo seat, AM turn sigs, and a catseye tail light. Next year, custom paint job (hopefully)!
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Re: tank removal
Reply #6 - 05/08/11 at 13:51:54
 
Put some PAM or similar cooking oil spray on the front mounts before reassembly. Makes it a whole lot easier to wrestle back into place. Pad the gas valve with a rag, easy to scratch the frame paint coming off or going back on.

When you get fed up with the stock arrangment swap the gas valve or swap the tank. There are a couple aircooled GS tanks that physically fit, two or 3 ATC tanks can be adapted to work, but you have to drill your frame for the front through bolt. Frisco "high" mount Sporty tanks can be made to work but are a bit long for the frame's stubby backbone (which is square by the way).

Lube the speedo cable while everything is apart unless your bike has the oil leak at the speedo connection. Some of these things will suck oil up the speedo cable on their own. Mine did it from day one. Since mine is now a speedo delete, the case hole is a crank vent. Slowed the bike's other oil leaks significantly.
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Re: tank removal
Reply #7 - 05/08/11 at 19:27:38
 
Unhook the gas line from the carb and put it into a gas can. Turn to prime. I remove my gas cap to make sure it flows better. Set the can on a block or whatever makes it work. I grab some Shoe Goo or any plastc holding trim glue whatever to secure the donuts to the frame pegs for easier tank installment.
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Re: tank removal
Reply #8 - 05/08/11 at 21:05:54
 
I couldn't get my tank off w/o removing the petcock.
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Re: tank removal
Reply #9 - 05/09/11 at 09:05:21
 
Hmmm, I just gave the tail of the tank a good thump to the left with the palm of my hand, then lifted. The rubber biscuits on the front mounts were dried out, though, so it wasn't a struggle.
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