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Double RYCA build Mar 2019 updates (Read 17403 times)
MotoBuddha
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #135 - 10/27/11 at 11:18:51
 
Very slick solution that I will now try to rip off. But I think I'll look for a brass version of the elbow, just for looks.  Grin
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Gyrobob
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #136 - 10/27/11 at 12:15:52
 
MotoBuddha wrote on 10/27/11 at 11:18:51:
Very slick solution that I will now try to rip off. But I think I'll look for a brass version of the elbow, just for looks.  Grin


That elbow is white temporarily, I assure you.  It has a couple of coats of black engine paint in its very near future.  

One of the reasons I post so many pics is to make these ideas easily rip-off-able.  Imitation is the sincerest from of flattery, eh?







Arteacher arteacher wrote on 10/27/11 at 07:26:08:
That is a slick solution.


Thanks much.  Let's just hope it works well.




Built2last66 Built2Last wrote on 10/27/11 at 07:27:43:
I hope it rumbles right up.
 

Me too, thanks.




Boule'tardBoule’tard wrote on 10/27/11 at 08:05:44:
Gyrobob wrote on 10/27/11 at 06:54:11:

I may drill a tiny (maybe .020") hole in the white (soon to be painted black) elbow for drainage.  It's the low point.

It looks like maybe you can rotate the PCV valve counterclockwise and make the elbow snug up to the frame and no longer a low point. Even if not, I bet any dribbles of oil will just work their way through the elbow without your having to drill a hole in it.  That would also eliminate the chance of dust getting sucked into the clean side of your filter.

Great work.  I envy those welds.  


I am considering that very thing -- great minds work alike.  If I rotate stuff so the low point is in the Ford Taurus crankcase breather then I could drill the tiny hole there and put a simple one-way "valve" sitting over the hole,.. sort of like a reed valve.  The pulses in the tube would probably push out any small amounts of oil and condensation.  

Thanks much for the ideas and the comments.







Babyhogbabyhog wrote on 10/27/11 at 08:23:02:
I can't interject much on the technical side, but I must say you take some really nice, crisp, clear photos!   Smiley  Should be a great help to those in need.


I appreciate that comment a lot.  I do put a little extra effort into the pics.  I use a Sony NEX-5 set on max size and resolution, then photoshop the pics to crop them and reduce the file size.  I like photography and I, too, get a kick out of it when someone takes really good pics. Conversely,.....  Roll Eyes

On a related note, I tend to take a zillion pics during a project,.. especially during disassembly -- I have saved my a** many times by being able to go back and remind myself how something goes together.  I've even been able to help a few folks here that had that same need.





                                                   Thanks, ALL, for the comments.
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #137 - 10/29/11 at 12:33:01
 
Does the regulator/rectifier still fit on the battery box?
Gyrobob wrote on 10/27/11 at 06:54:11:
Here's one solution to the crankcase breather.  I poked a hole in the RYCA supplied K&N air filter, put in a grommet, inserted a crankcase breather (maybe fits a Taurus), and hooked it up to a shortened breather tube.


Here's the RYCA filter with a 15/16" hole put in it.  Next time it will be offcenter about 1/8" for clearance.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843976-T800600.jpg


Here are the four parts to be assembled
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843977-T800600.jpg


Sources for the parts.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843982-T800600.jpg


Grommet installed in the K&N filter.  Next time I'll use a grommet with a wider ring around the outside because the filter has a really thick coating of rubber inside the metal, maybe 5/32" thick for the metal and the rubber.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843985-T800600.jpg


Breather installed into grommet (tight fit), elbow attached to breather with a piece cut from existing breather tube.  In this pic the elbow sticks out too far, so the tube on the breather was shortened some, as was one side of the elbow.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843986-T800600.jpg


Other side of the breather assembly.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843987-T800600.jpg


Air filter and breather assembly installed.  It fits fine with NO room to spare.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843992-T800600.jpg


Left side view.  (or is that port side?)  (but what if I am facing the bike?)  Wink
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843990-T800600.jpg


View looking up.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843994-T800600.jpg


Another pic but with flash this time for diff lighting detail.
http://www.bluemelon.com/photo/42589/1843997-T800600.jpg


I may drill a tiny (maybe .020") hole in the white (soon to be painted black) elbow for drainage.  It's the low point.

I really won't know how this will all work until we start 'em up.  At least we have a token effort in place for the tree huggers, and it looks fairly tidy.  Cheap too,.. several bucks total.

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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #138 - 11/01/11 at 14:41:19
 
In response to some questions/comments about the crankcase breather mod, here are some pics showing the clearance between the breather, and the rectifier.  Also shown are the wires being able to poke up through the holes, and, in response to massive needling, the elbow's new color scheme!!!









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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #139 - 01/23/12 at 17:48:42
 
After some low-productivity times, the production line for Double-RYCA build is probably going to get moving again.  The next order of business is the electrical system.  I have all the plugs and wires identified, labeled, and in their approximate positions.

For you guys who have already blazed the RYCA electrical system trail, I have some questions.

For a 2002 Savage, what do we do with these things?
-- Decompression controller - just leave it wired up?  do we have to jump any of the terminals?
-- Decompression solenoid - this is just taken off and sold on ebay, methinks.
-- Side stand relay -- take it off?
-- Side stand diode -- remove it?  leave it wired in?
-- Side stand switch -- jump the terminals in the connector?

Thanks for any info.
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #140 - 01/24/12 at 04:08:47
 
Gyrobob wrote on 01/23/12 at 17:48:42:
After some low-productivity times, the production line for Double-RYCA build is probably going to get moving again.  The next order of business is the electrical system.  I have all the plugs and wires identified, labeled, and in their approximate positions.

For you guys who have already blazed the RYCA electrical system trail, I have some questions.

For a 2002 Savage, what do we do with these things?
-- Decompression controller - just leave it wired up?  do we have to jump any of the terminals?
-- Decompression solenoid - this is just taken off and sold on ebay, methinks.
-- Side stand relay -- take it off?
-- Side stand diode -- remove it?  leave it wired in?
-- Side stand switch -- jump the terminals in the connector?

Thanks for any info.


its been almost 10 months since I completed mine, so my memory is a little foggy. I do recall that nothing had to be "jumped" on mine.
I am pretty sure you just disconnect all the above mentioned items.

I do remember for sure that the decompression solenoid was just removed (and I sold mine on ebay). I also remember for sure that the decompression solenoid connector was just taped off (and not jumped). The kick stand wiring is where my memory isn't serving me very well. Pretty sure I didn't do anything except unplug and tape off. Someone else will chime in, I am sure.
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #141 - 01/25/12 at 06:26:54
 
Wiring, if done properly, is the most time consuming part of the build. But important if you want a good running bike.

Firts know that the the Ryca LED turn signals make the stock turn signal relay go on-and-off too fast. Replace it with a digital one. Try an “LF-1-S flat” from superbriteled.com

Regarding the Sidestand Switch:
Easiest: remove switch and join the two wires to make a constant ground.

Clean: remove sidestand relay, as it is no longer needed.
Connect the wires going to the #3 (orange/blue) and #4 (orange) terminals. Remove the unused wires going to the #1 (green) and #2 (orange) terminals.  

Cleanest: also remove the sidestand diode. It is part of the sidestand ignition-lock-out (or “interlock”) system which is no longer functional as you’ve removed the sidestand switch. Connect the wire that goes to the neutral switch (blue?) to the wire going to the neutral indicator light (not sure of color). The third wire (orange?) is part of the sidestand switch/relay circuit and can be eliminated.  

As to the decompression circuit. I can't help you. I made recesses in the bottom of my tank to accomodate the solenoid and cable, as I didn't like Ryca's foot pedal system. A quick look at the wiring diagram, however, shows that there's plenty or wires and relays to be gotten rid of.

Good luck





Gyrobob wrote on 01/23/12 at 17:48:42:
After some low-productivity times, the production line for Double-RYCA build is probably going to get moving again.  The next order of business is the electrical system.  I have all the plugs and wires identified, labeled, and in their approximate positions.

For you guys who have already blazed the RYCA electrical system trail, I have some questions.

For a 2002 Savage, what do we do with these things?
-- Decompression controller - just leave it wired up?  do we have to jump any of the terminals?
-- Decompression solenoid - this is just taken off and sold on ebay, methinks.
-- Side stand relay -- take it off?
-- Side stand diode -- remove it?  leave it wired in?
-- Side stand switch -- jump the terminals in the connector?

Thanks for any info.

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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #142 - 02/11/12 at 14:29:22
 
I'm wiring up the tach and speedo.  According to RYCA's instructions, the black wire is ground, the red wire is +12v for the light bulb, and the blue wire is +12v to power the tach, and the green wire is the voltage pulse from the coil.  

When I hooked up just the red and black wires for the tach and speedo to just test the lights inside the cases, both lights lit up, but the needle on the tach snapped all the way to the right and quivered.  That doesn't make sense to me.  

Why would the needle move from just applying 12v to the red wire?
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #143 - 02/12/12 at 12:03:29
 
I'm not sure why, but I used their tach and it did the same thing to me when I wired it. Fired the bike up and it works fine.  Not sure the reason, but it seems like a non issue.
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #144 - 02/12/12 at 13:25:19
 
scubachef wrote on 02/12/12 at 12:03:29:
I'm not sure why, but I used their tach and it did the same thing to me when I wired it. Fired the bike up and it works fine.  Not sure the reason, but it seems like a non issue.


Thanks.  I guess I feel better now, but I sure am curious as to why it slams all way the over like that.  What does the needle do during normal operation?
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #145 - 02/12/12 at 14:16:54
 
My educated guess is that there is a capacitor in the circuit to even out the pulses so the needle doesn't vibrate. The needle "slams" over until the cap charges up. I have a Baron Bullet tach and it does exactly the same thing yours does. If I shut the bike down and start it right back up the needle doesn't slam, because the cap hasn't had time to drain.
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #146 - 02/12/12 at 16:14:45
 
scubachef wrote on 02/12/12 at 12:03:29:
I'm not sure why, but I used their tach and it did the same thing to me when I wired it. Fired the bike up and it works fine.  Not sure the reason, but it seems like a non issue.

yep, what he said. mine does that too- once the bike is running, the needle settles back down to "zero"
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #147 - 02/12/12 at 17:06:57
 
Thanks, Gents, for chiming in and lowering my angst level a bit.  When I first saw that I thought I had wired something up incorrectly and fried the tach.  I couldn't imagine how I could have hurt anything since there was only 12v from the battery available, but it sure seemed weird.

I'm not using the horn 12v supply.  I moved the horns forward a bit so they clear the tank, so the original horn wiring is in use.  For the 12v supply for the instruments I am using the plug for the old instrument panel,.. tapping into the gray wire socket.
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #148 - 03/24/12 at 18:59:38
 
Did any of you see the CS-1 at the Suzuki tent during Bike Week?
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Re: Double RYCA Build
Reply #149 - 03/25/12 at 17:36:14
 
Well, hell.  I just got all the wiring in place, turned the key to on, and blew a fuse.
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