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just finished valve adjustment questions (Read 169 times)
chickenwingsmmm
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just finished valve adjustment questions
03/13/11 at 14:57:14
 
I just hit the 600 miles mark on my new S40, time for the first service. I changed the oil and filter (amsoil and hiflofiltro), adjusted the decomp cable, and adjusted the valves. It seems like when I first got the bike there was no valvetrain noise. About 100 miles ago or so the valves started ticking. After the valve adjustment today it seems that the valves are still making a ticking sound. I know some valvetrain noise is nothing to worry about, but when I first got the bike it was silent. I (tryed) to set the valves at 4 thou, but my feeler gauge would barely fit although I think I'm pretty close to my clearance. My quesiton is does everyone's bike have valve noise, or am I still not set right.
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #1 - 03/13/11 at 16:43:14
 
Depends on your definition of noise,.. I can hear them, if I listen, ...and more so if the engine is hot.
... but they don't sound like someone playing drums on my engine case...

How To: Adjust your Valves... in the Tech section


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« Last Edit: 03/15/11 at 07:33:07 by verslagen1 »  

Ludicrous Speed !... ... Huh...
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #2 - 03/15/11 at 06:26:08
 
quesiton is does everyone's bike have valve noise, or
----------------------------------------------------------------
Yep, when my engine is hot, its kinda noisy, but is normal I'm sure.

Oil weight heavy enough ?
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Rich
'07 S40 Blvd stocker, except drilled OEM exhaust and white spacer mod...1/2 (.055)
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #3 - 03/15/11 at 13:22:16
 
   A question and a suggestion.  Question is a little off topic but since you have a new bike and presumably an owners manual that came with it what does it say about torquing the head at 1000 km or 600 miles?  The older manuals said to re-torque it but you didn't mention it so I am curious if they still recommend that?

   Adjusting valves on any engine using a lock nut is a little tedious becasue the adjustment can move a little when you tighten the nut and if you don't tighten the nut properly it can loosen up later.  If the noise bothers you, and that is understandable with a new bike, you should go back in and check again with a feeler for you own peace of mind.
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2005 S40, Intruder shocks, Dyna, 52.5/150, 3 washers, 2 turns, modified seat, Raptor
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #4 - 03/15/11 at 13:58:22
 
Most common issue with readjusting the valves is either following clymers instructions and turning the crankshaft the wrong way (always turn it the same way the wheels go forward) and setting TDC to the wrong one.  Take both caps off, turn the engine, watch for the intake valves (closest to carb) to open then close, then pay attention to the marking on the crankshaft, about 3/4's turn and they'll be lined up on TDC.
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #5 - 03/16/11 at 01:30:45
 
I agree! The manual is wrong! that just might be your problem for sure!
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #6 - 03/16/11 at 09:11:19
 
The manual does suggest you retourqe the head at 600 miles (along with the decomp cable and several other things). however my tourqe wrench only goes down to 30 lbs and the clymer suggests the spec be about 26 lbs I think. I thought with a low compression low rpm engine it wasn't extremely important. I realized the manual wanted you to turn the engine over the wrong way and didn't follow that part of instructions, however I am positive I'm at tdc. I'm running motorcycle specific 10w40 oil, so that isn't an issue. The noise is pretty faint, nonexistant on start up so I'm gonna just ride I think. Thanks guys
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Re: just finished valve adjustment questions
Reply #7 - 03/16/11 at 09:50:35
 
Ive got 20,000 on mine. Never touched a head bolt. No leakeee..
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