Get a piece of clear tubing that will fit snugly on the bleeder. Put the other end in something like your half empty brake fluid bottle so air won't get sucked into the caliper.

Get an open end wrench the size of the bleeder.

Get something like a velcro strap to hold the brake lever against the grip.

Pour brake fluid in the master cylinder with the bleeder closed.

Pump the brake lever a couple of times and strap it down.

Open the bleeder for about a second, then close it.

Pump the brake lever a couple of times and strap it down.

Open the bleeder for about a second, then close it.

Pump the brake lever a couple of times and strap it down.

This repetitive stuff is easier if one person tends the bleeder and another works the lever, though you need to keep your actions coordinated. The trick is to never open the bleeder without the lever being held down.

All the time, watch the brake fluid coming out of the bleeder. (You might need to add fluid to the master cylinder as you go.) When you stop getting air bubbles and the lever won't compress anymore, you're done. Top off the fluid in the master cylinder to the proper level and install the cover.

Sometimes, if the brake still won't feel firm, you might need to tap on the caliper to dislodge bubbles.

- - - - - - -

Oops, okay, this assumes your system is already empty because, like me, you've disassembled everything, soaked and cleaned it, replaced the piston seals in the caliper, put on a braided stainless steel line, yadda yadda yadda.

Use the "open beer" technique.

Level handlebars,
remove cap, don't let it drip,
wipe up and clean anywhere it does. (removes paint)
put closed end wrench on bleeder, crack open, then close.
put tube on bleeder and other end in jar.
open bleeder
then go get a beer come back and watch the fluid drain into the jar.
before it starts sucking air, refill, then keep full.  try to remember not to put beer in the master.
when you've drained about a half pint of fluid, close the bleeder and check the lever.  if it feels good then you're done.  if not the usual bleeding technique applies.

Thanks everyone!  I did it and it worked great.  What I did was keep adding fluid to the master and pumping it through until everything was clear.  When I bought the brake fluid I also got a clear hose with a check valve on it that attaches to the bleeder nipple for a few bucks.

if you sucked it dry, it's hard getting it started again.

You don't have to change brake fluid I've had 2 bikes over 20 years and never change the fluid,Look how long cars goes without changing fluid.

verslagen1 wrote on 01/09/11 at 00:21:45:




Its not necessary to suck every drop out. Just saves effort, & a little fluid.

Indeed gravity bleeding is the easiest way. I've done it on cars for 23 years. As long as you remember to keep topping off the master, and provided you didn't have any air in the system to start with, it is failsafe. I usually give the lever a few pumps and crack the bleeder right at the end, to be sure. And it's not needed to pump the foot brake at all, as the rears are totally mechanical. All the fluid is for the fronts.