I've searched to no avail--here's a silly question. What keeps the worn out adjuster from flying apart in pieces when I take the bolt out? Or better yet, what's the secret to collapsing the dam thing--I had a c-clamp on it and couldn't budge it. Apparently I need one of them there Verslagen mods--or is that the Slavy mod?? I'm confused. And I had the dam thing replaced last summer with the "new improved design" from the dealer. It's right at 18mm now--not even 3000 miles after new. It's beginning to look like I may not be doing much riding next summer--Yes, money is a big issue, and old Betsy needs LOTS of work.

OK, how does one trip the ratchet and hold away from teeth? (I'm just trying to get the old one off the bike without putting my 1 good eye out, or have it shoot out the garage door and 1/2 way down the alley)

I rotated mine 180 degrees so smooth side was out (ratchet skittering on smooth steel), got everything assembled and pushed everything in and seated the bolt a thread or two just as a trial run with the ratchet not getting in the way of things.  

Checked everything out good while my fingers rested seeing that the all the motions worked right, etc.

Took a big drill bit that was used to drill the holes and put the butt end of it into the free hole and pulled back with my whole hand while undoing the bolt.  Then used my limited finger strength time to rotate the piece in the full cocked position and got the big drill bit back in the hole.  That gave me full hand strength to hold it all back while I got the small bolt back in place.

There is a little tiny bit of smooth at the fully depressed position that allows you to rotate the piece from smooth side to ratchet teeth engaged.

Your fingers can't hold it back for more than 15-10 seconds before your fingers give out.  You need mechanical aids and an attack plan to get it done.





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here is where I wrote down how to do it all.    Merry Christmas and good luck to you as you work on your bike.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256079122

See that yeller tab on the bottom, when you buy a brand new adjuster it's stuck in there to keep it from flying out.  Right next to it is a pawl, use your thumb and push the bottom in and it'll release the plunger and you can push it back in against a spring.

Now to take it off ain't no big deal, just keep your hand on it and let it expand slowly when the bolt is free.

It's obvious you newb's still don't understand what this thing does.
All the adjuster does is maintain chain tension.  Buying a new one don't magically make the chain shorter.  If you fix it before the adjuster gets over extended and wears an oblong hole that allows the plunger to wobble.  You can keep using the same one forever.  You have to replace the chain and guides to get the plunger back in.

The dealer who put that in for you, stole your money.

OK, I'm gonna go pull the bolt and let 'er fly, like the newb I am. Then I'm gonna rip the rest of the upper 1/2 apart. Maybe I'll rip the bottom apart too, so's I kin lern how to do this shite. When I have a pile o' parts staring at me this coming April, I'll put the bucketful up for sale, and go buy a Vespa.

I only had them put the new one in because it wasn't costing me anything, since it was tore apart anyways when they screwed up the clutch job. I'm only looking into it now because mileage says to. I never thought it would be a miracle fix, but I don't have the cash for a new chain, front and rear brakes, 2 tires, air and gas filters, new carb, etc., etc., etc..  OK?

Remember to stuff a rag or two inside all those little rabbit holes leading down to the sump area -- if you don't a clip or a bolt will run down one of those rabbit holes just as sure as baby bunnies have bunny fuzz.

The spring is not hard to push in by hand, it just can get away from you if you're not watching it.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1180206459