As several people have pointed out, it sounds like you have a bad battery. Doesn't matter if it is brand new (as I have found out much to my annoyance).

If you're trying to start a MC with a bad battery, you are just wasting time. Get a known good battery and try to start it. If then it doesn't start, then start troubleshooting before you drain the battery. Don't try so many starts that you drain the battery before charging it back up.

okay, I can safely rule out the battery. Hooking up the car battery it did exactly the same thing.

My suroundings where quieter this time and I noticed that I can hear the starter engaging and then when I release the switch it lets go. It's as if the starter simply doesn't have the torque to spin the gears over. which leads me to think compression.

Anyone have any other thoughts?

Are you sure that the 86 is supposed to have that? I just pulled up the microfiche and I don't see any washers on there. More importantly, there wasn't one there when I pulled it apart. Though that doesn't mean that there wasn't one there before I bought the bike.

edit: I pulled up the fiche for a 2002 and that guy has a few different bits in the starter clutch. guess that came in with the torque limiter?

FYI 86 that my B-i-L has was able to be started by applying a battery charger on start mode directly to the starter lug. Not recommended but that is how the seller got it started to prove that it would run prior to completing the sale. So in my experience compression will not prevent a working starter from cranking the engine. When you did the bump start you did jump on the seat before popping the clutch I hope, otherwise the back tire will slide for sure.

Can you turn the engine over with a socket on the bolt under the inspection cover on the LH (Alternator) side. It goes the same direction as the rear wheel, not the way the Clymer manual would have you try. Even with the spark plug in you should be able to turn the engine over easily with a 3/8 drive standard socket handle. It will be lumpy as it goes over compression and the alternator magnets attract and repel, but must be free to turn!

NOTE!!! This following test only applies if you can get the starter motor to spin the engine. Remember I said that a starter is close to a dead short to ground when it isn't spinning. It has brass brushes and a copper armature and windings so has very little measurable resistance (ohms) to current flow.

Do you know how to use your DVOM to do voltage drop testing? If so check both the insulated and ground circuits while the starter is spinning the engine. You night need some extra hands to do this. If you don't know how, here is a quick and dirty explanation. Instead of just checking for applied voltage, VD testing helps to isolate the voltage loss. The meter leads are put in parallel with the circuit to be tested and the circuit energized or put into operation. The reading on the meter will be the voltage difference between the beginning and end of that part of the circuit. So + on the battery + and - on the starter motor stud. Crank and see what you get. Then + on the starter motor case ground and - on the battery -. Should see less than 0.5 V on the insulated side (maximum would be 1.0 V including the solenoid contacts)  and 0.1 or 0.2 V on the ground side. This will find wires that have broken stands in them where an ohms test or applied voltage will not. Come back with questions if the test doesn't make sense. Generally we look for less than 0.05 V per connection or wire section. When you include the 2 contacts in the solenoid and the hold in winding that is why we allow more VD in that side. Ideally we want almost the all available voltage from the battery to drop across the motor, not in the circuits or controls. !! AGAIN, it has to spin the engine over to do the above tests.  Happy measuring and let us know what you find. Max

PS I'd still be leary of the condition of the battery and have it load tested by a parts store or battery shop. It really needs to have at least 12.6 volts open circuit when it is fully charged and not less than about 10 V when cranking, the electronic ignition doesn't like to work at less than 10V applied. Also low state of chrage, or a bad battery will lower the spin speed upping the amps as the counter EMF is less.

Probably more than you ever wanted to know about starter systems. It is the old auto teacher in me slipping out. max

greenmonster wrote on 12/06/10 at 21:08:19:

I think you're right about that.
I'd check the engine, take off the timing port a turn it with 17mm socket.

Hey how many miles?

I hope it's not your cam chain.

won't start


Usually preceded by sudden stop


maybe a loud noise


sometimes chain scraping, most often tapping by the oil filter cover.

Well, at least it's been looked at...

and doesn't look like this...