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Adding fog lights (Read 314 times)
thumperclone
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #15 - 12/01/10 at 19:39:49
 
feelinjunky wrote on 12/01/10 at 09:25:50:
thumperclone wrote on 11/30/10 at 22:43:17:
had a pair of 35 W mr 11 white driving lights from jc whitless..
draw on the system was too much with the 3 amp(36watt) draw from my sound system..
replaced the bulbs with some leds that fit and have no issues..
the 35 w lamps didnt do much cept draw from the charging system..
the leds are a blue er color and are more apparent to the on coming cagers than the halogens..
my want was to be more visual to those turning left across my path..not lite up the road..i did that with a sylvania H4 bulb.
my led volt meter tells me im good to go at 1k rpm..
BUT at wot am discharging a bit...


Well the draw from your sound system depends on volume. At low volume, it's probably only a couple of watts. But more importantly, I have a question:

Your 55watt headlight and two 35 watt driving lights was too much for your electrical system??


i have an led voltmeter on the master cyl 2 green lights is best charge was only getting one with the 35wtters and the amp which is 3 anps = 36 watts..with the leds no prob..
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verslagen1
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Re: Mini-battery install
Reply #16 - 11/30/10 at 20:53:32
 
have you thought about the headlight cutout relay mod?
or just adding a switch to turn it off while cranking?
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Re: Mini-battery install
Reply #17 - 12/01/10 at 08:58:30
 

And another thought it --- is your decompression solenoid properly adjusted?


Question:   there is a timer on the decomp solenoid -- what happens on a slow stubborn crank job if it goes past the timer period?
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feelinjunky
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Re: Mini-battery install
Reply #18 - 12/01/10 at 09:36:54
 
verslagen1 wrote on 11/30/10 at 20:53:32:
have you thought about the headlight cutout relay mod?
or just adding a switch to turn it off while cranking?


I did that when I installed my 55watt HID light. Problem with HIDs is that they draw 2x their rated power for the first few seconds when they are initially turned on. I have a switch where the hazard switch would normally be on a newer version of our bikes. On a cold a** day, it's still difficult to start, never on one or two tries.

There's a timer on the starting system? I had no idea. All I know is that on a cold day, from dead cold start, she cranks slower than normal, speeds up cranking only a little, regardless of choke position (1/2, 3/4, full), and continues cranking if I keep it up for ~5 seconds. If I get lucky, it'll catch on the 4th or 5th try and I have to get even luckier to keep her running...

Edit: idk if this helps, but if I keep my hand on the button to start her up, she'll crank forever until I let go. Idk if it's supposed to stop. Still trying to figure out what the timer is for..
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Re: Mini-battery install
Reply #19 - 12/01/10 at 11:38:56
 
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 12/01/10 at 08:58:30:
Question:   there is a timer on the decomp solenoid -- what happens on a slow stubborn crank job if it goes past the timer period?

Answer:  The timer releases the decomp solenoid after about a half second regardless of engine speed.  When starting, my tack says 300 rpm, that's 5 rev's per second.  So normally the decomp releases after 2 and a half cycles.  You really only need to release the 1st compression stroke to get it to a speed where it won't stop on compression.  I've noticed that if it's takes a long time for it to start, that if you loosen the decomp adjustment it will start faster.  Of course if it stalls on you, it needs to be a little tighter.  

Also,  my '96 with stock jetting (145) would need a little twist of the throttle to start.  Couldn't do that with the '88 (155)  went down one jet size (152) and now I can.  Also the '88 hates to be started with any 'choke' even on a cold morning.
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Re: Mini-battery install
Reply #20 - 12/01/10 at 18:51:19
 
verslagen1 wrote on 12/01/10 at 11:38:56:
The timer releases the decomp solenoid after about a half second regardless of engine speed.  When starting, my tack says 300 rpm, that's 5 rev's per second.  So normally the decomp releases after 2 and a half cycles.  You really only need to release the 1st compression stroke to get it to a speed where it won't stop on compression.  I've noticed that if it's takes a long time for it to start, that if you loosen the decomp adjustment it will start faster.  Of course if it stalls on you, it needs to be a little tighter.  

Also,  my '96 with stock jetting (145) would need a little twist of the throttle to start.  Couldn't do that with the '88 (155)  went down one jet size (152) and now I can.  Also the '88 hates to be started with any 'choke' even on a cold morning.


Thanks for the info. Interesting, I've gotta look into this, but I have a few other projects lined up before this one...valve adjustment, hard krome, intake, rejet, fog lights...yea...one thing at a time. I'll do the adjusting when it gets cold. Right now, starting is pretty good.
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #21 - 12/04/10 at 12:21:26
 
There's a replacement stator available up in canada, rmstator on fleabay.
I'd give them a call about the spec's for our stator and if a high power version exists.
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #22 - 12/04/10 at 13:33:44
 
verslagen1 wrote on 12/04/10 at 12:21:26:
There's a replacement stator available up in canada, rmstator on fleabay.
I'd give them a call about the spec's for our stator and if a high power version exists.


I'll look into that and post results here.
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #23 - 12/04/10 at 22:04:35
 
http://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycles/suzuki/s_40/stator/stator_for__s_40_/2...

There's the link for those who are interested. these are the guys that I picked up my voltage regulator from. Super nice to deal with.
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #24 - 12/05/10 at 04:26:19
 
greenmonster wrote on 12/04/10 at 22:04:35:
http://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycles/suzuki/s_40/stator/stator_for__s_40_/2...

There's the link for those who are interested. these are the guys that I picked up my voltage regulator from. Super nice to deal with.


Says 20% more output that OE, so 252 watts, as opposed to 210 watts. Not bat, but price is a little steep. The cost of saving 42 watts by replacing all lights with leds is less than half the price of that, so not worth it imho.
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #25 - 12/05/10 at 09:23:05
 
True enough. However, I'm going to have to replace my stator sooner or later so I figure I may as well pick up the extra 20%. Unless someone can show me a substantially cheaper one somewhere. In Canada rmstator will ship for free so that takes a slice off the total cost for me.
I'm thinking that with the extra juice and swapping lights to lower the draw I may have enough power to do some fun stuff with it.
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #26 - 12/05/10 at 11:48:35
 
Use a relay with the lights and add a capacitor to the charging system, it will help with a low amp alternator. And the fuse size has nothing to do with the charging system out put....its to keep you from frying the wires. Just like in your house, 200 amps of power, but typically a 250-300 amp panel. Some receptionist are rated for 15 amps, some up top 40 amps. You never wanna over heat the wires. Relays, capacitors, heavier gauge wires always help the charging system. 18ga wires will work fine as battery cables, but they won't last long and won't carry much current as demand builds.......
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Re: Adding fog lights
Reply #27 - 12/05/10 at 12:44:24
 
plugging into a receptionist is normally considered sexual harassment.   Cool
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