you can change gear ratios with chains...

I should also add that my belt used to squeak but I aligned the rear wheel and it stopped...I once put some parafin wax on it...that also stopped it.
I'll take the belt over a chain just because there is no need for me to change out my gear ratios and there is basically zero maintenance involved.

When I replaced my rear tire I had it slightly out of alignment and it squeaked like crazy on my first test run. Propped it back up and realigned it a little more and haven't heard from it since. Just yesterday I started hearing my front brake squeak though. Will have to jump on that one and swap out the pads with the new ones I have sitting on the shelf.

I've got almost 30,000 miles on the original chain and sprockets on my Bandit. With care chains can last a long time. I installed a Loobman manual chain oiler (http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/) after the first 500 miles when it became obvious to me that lubing was a core. Cost about $30.

Forgive me because I'm fairly new to riding, but with the easy to change gears of the chain driven you can adjust your power band the way you want right? For more low end excel or top end speed?  I don't have any squeek on my bike except when it rains but it goes away after a couple minutes. I like how low maintanence the belt is too. Maybe it's just me but it seems like the only good reason to switch to a belt would be if your going to put some major performance mods like a new cam and carb right?

I believe a shaft drive is by far the least efficient of any drive.

The belts can squeak, but chains tend to be noisy, too. In theory, a broken chain can be repaired alongside the road, if you have the parts and tools to do the job. But I have seen a broken engine case caused by a broken chain, and stories exist about rear wheels locking up caused by a broken or derailed chain.

Changing ratios is easier with chain drive because sprockets with different numbers of teeth are easier to get than different pulleys. But if you make much of a change the chain ends up too long or too short and has to be modified. Front sprocket changes are often limited by either swing arm clearance(chain drags on the swingarm) or engine case clearance, so you can't really go much bigger or smaller.

Shaft drives require maintenance, too. Usually there is a spline joint at the rear wheel, and it requires moly grease whenever the rear wheel is removed and replaced. I seem to remember reading about some bikes that failed in the Iron Butt Rally because those splines wore to the point that the drive spun in the wheel. I can't be sure, but the ST1100 comes to mind. And of course, the lube in the final drive needs to be changed every so often.