when the tensioner reaches 19mm, it's the chain that needs replacing.  and if you do it now, there'll be no damage to the tensioner and you can still use it.

but here's the kicker... measure the chain stretch and you'll see you're still well within spec.  which is why the "slavy" was created, to get all the life out of the chain.

At 22mm, you have to replace the chain, so you got 3mm to do something.  about a 1000 miles per mm, give or take 3mm's.  

I think I understand the spacer mod more now.  Not completely, because I have not done it and then rode with it.  But I think the wisest thing to do is replace with washers that way I can go back to stock if it doesn't like it.

If only I had a verslavy at hand...I would be cruising the back roads tomorrow eating bugs.  Nahh...who am I kidding I am just a newb that doesn't know what its like to be a real biker...lol.  

I like the bike, really I do, and I am so glad I did all of this today.  I feel a lot better about my machine and look forward to many more years of pleasure and use out of it.  I am still curious on the issue with the chain and adjuster though.

Get one of these (or weld up and drill your old one) and install it ASAP.

Quit worrying about your chain --- your old cam chain has LOTS and LOTS of life left in it.   Your chain isn't your pressing issue, not by a long long shot.

Don't wait too durn long to Slavvy it as you are only 1-2mm away from a "spit the spring into the running gears" crunch event.   If you scragg out your bike by being slack now you'll never forgive yourself.

Get/make yourself a Slavvy unit (or a Verslavvy if you decide to get his improved version) and put that sucker in place ASAP.

oh yea, I am definitely doing something with it.  I just thought that verslagen was alluding to the idea that I was going to have to replace my cam chain when it gets out to the stock 23mm.  I was just being confused in my head and wanted to set the record straight.

It is funny how things happen.  If someone does not believe that EVERY thing happens for a reason then they are sadly mistaken.  If I would not have had that blonde moment that caused the potential ooppsie then I would still be riding the bike right now.

I had no intentions of looking inside until this fall/winter.  It had 8500 miles when I got it and it seemed as though the consensus was that at around 10,000 mile it is a wise idea to check things out regardless.  I am at over 9000 miles now, and figured I would wait till I was not riding as much in the fall/winter(its hard to carry a stick and string on the back of a bike).

By then I would have put on another 1000 miles or so.  Would I have had the spring in the running gears moment?  Who knows.  It definitely looks like it could have ratcheted out another couple in that time.  We will never know because it will be fixed before I ride again.  I consider myself as being one that gets watched over a lot, I don't plan on pushing things too far.

Here is where I would agree with others that I found while trying to diagnose my situation, and it wouldn't be a bad thing to always tell new comers to do, and that is to just look at the darn adjuster if you get a used bike.  It seriously did not take that long to do.  Maybe 1 1/2 hours tops?  I have no idea why I toyed with the idea so long.

I am hoping that I can pick up some money quickly so I can go ahead with the verslavvy.  I think for now I will go ahead and weld a tab on and drill it.  Being a soul provider for a wife and three kids these days takes a lot from a guy, thats the reason I had to settle for the s40 instead of the harley...JUST KIDDING!!!  That was just too much of an opportune moment to waste.

I am adapt at welding, but not milling and I like the idea that verslagen came up with.  I finished up the night with a complete clean and white spacer mod.  I went down to .075, 2/3 of what it was.  That carb was dirty dirty.  I was spraying carb cleaner in holes and brown/black stuff would pour out the other side.  I am really surprised it ran as well as it did.  Just a testament to the simplicity of these machines, I am starting to really like it.  But anytime you get your hands dirty with someone you are bound to get attached.

nathanhooper wrote on 08/28/10 at 10:22:31:



http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1183865819/1#1

Well I pulled the tensioner off last night.  I think I bent the circlip, unless it is supposed to look like this?


The tensioner body looks well enough, I think I caught it before it could get too wollerd out.



Here is a thought though on maybe another solution to the mod on the tensioner.  There is a .026" difference in height on the tensioner 'piston'.  The difference is between the height of the groove ridges and the overall piston diameter.

Rough drawing, I had a little fun with 'paint' this morning, I forgot the picture of the piston at home.  But I think you can get the idea from this drawing.
So the ratcheting device on the tensioner comes back this far when it is moving over the normal 'groves'...it was hard to get a picture of the exact moment the ratchet reaches the top of the ridge on the groove, but after a couple of tries I was able to capture it.


Here is a picture of when it is sitting inside the grooves.

And this far when the piston has reached the end of normal travel and is capable of coming out.


I did not measure that difference in distance, but I am going to assume that it is .026".  So my thoughts are if someone could put a "pin" of some sort in there allowing the ratchet device to only come back to the point of allowing travel over the 'groves' and not allowing it to come back to the point of allowing the piston to come out.

I tried it with sticking a small screwdriver tip behind the ratchet and it did not allow the piston to come out.  Now I know that this is a lot more tedious machining than cutting a slot and drilling the piston for a pin, but I just thought I would share my idea and see if anyone has thoughts on it.

Maybe drilling and taping a set screw that could be adjusted?

Good, bad?  I got too looking, and what if you came in from the opposite side of the hole the spring for the ratchet sits in.  Then what you are in essence doing is using the spring as a stop itself.

Downsides to doing this?  I am NOT a engineer, so I cannot say I have the foresight to see the relationship of machined surfaces and how they interact with each other.

BurnPgh wrote on 08/27/10 at 23:02:27:


Nope. I meant the head gasket. I've pretty much resigned myself to a seepy head cover. Not bad. Just a bit right above the spark plug. I have, however, never had my head gasket seep or leak. The head cover could be head cover bolts not being tight enough or crappy rtv seal but if the head gaskets leaking there not much else it could be but loose head bolts or a worn gasket.  But again, though a gasket may be worn (maybe the PO reused it after a disassembly) I don't know that it could "blow" and leak profusely with such low oil prssure as our bike has. Leak, yes, seep....count on it...blow? Eh...