definitely will do.  I will post my findings to that one thread that ver started.  I have been spending some time printing off posts, but inevitably I am probably going to be on this weekend asking questions. I got to thinking, it would be funny if I took the cover off and there sat one of verslagens tensioner's.  Hey ver, you ever sold a tensioner to southern MO or northwest AR?

Started in on the check up.  Pulled the seat first, then drained the fuel tank, took the petc0ck off, undid the spedo and put duct tape over both ends, took the tank off, took beauty covers off, took the side covers off the air intake.  Going to give her a good wash tomorrow to limit the amount of dirt around the area.

I have a question on the air filter.  What does a stock one look like in good condition?  This one seemed to be extremely dirty, but it could be the filter material color.  It is very tan.  I am going to clean it, but I wanted to take a picture first, but I do not have the camera with me right now.  I have not done anything yet that really warrants a picture.  I will be taking plenty tomorrow.  

It didn't take me long to come this far.  30 mins maybe?  I plan on doing the valves is why I took the tank off.   What would you guys consider a good reason to re-torque the head bolts?

So after all of this, I was sitting on the naked bike and decided I might as well try the test justin thought of.  So I unscrewed the rear guide pin, and barely backed it out till I could make out the machined surface.  After doing that it all came back to me what I did on Monday night after changing the oil.  Unless I am brain dead there is no way I took that pin out more than 1/2" past the threads.

So I tried the test and could not come up with anything.  Oh well, I had already decided to look inside anyways.  I do not think it is off the guide though.  I was able to "wiggle" it around and can feel it pushing/pulling on something inside the hole at every angle except when I pull upwards, or maybe it was downwards...I will check again tomorrow.  But needless to say there is something "holding" to the end of it because if it were not then it would be free to move around with ease, right?  I cannot see how it wouldn't.

Tomorrow is going to be a good day.  I will learn a lot about my bike tomorrow, and feel real good about getting my fingers dirty.  Checking the tensioner, adjusting valves, and hopefully if time permits checking out the carb.  Might as well since it is going to be in the open.  Anyone have anything else they would do if they were into it as far as I will be tomorrow?

Blow the dirt from around the plug b4 you pull it. Make sure theres no water down there.

nathanhooper wrote on 08/27/10 at 19:04:16:



How lucky do you feel?

Some here report never re-torquing the head bolts.  Others here report blowing their head gaskets.

The book says to re-torque the head bolts ever 3500 miles for a low mileage bike, like yours.

Your bike.....your choice.

Happy wrenchin'!

My advise is not to do any modding at the moment. It seems you're still new and flinchy about the mechanics of the machine in its stock form. Gte it running well and ride it around a while. Get to know your canvas before you start painting. As far as you're cam chain guide oppsie, if it hasnt started making funny sounds or died yet Im pretty certain you're in the clear so quit worrying about it. Just tighten that bolt and leave it alone for now. If you've got about 10k mi Id say open the right side and see what you've got going on with the tensioner no matter what. Read up on the verslavy cam chain tensioner and if you're at the point where you need one, buy one. I recommend getting one anyway just for peace of mind. In the long run its really a waste of money NOT to get one but if your bike can wait and you want to wait, by all means wait. Just check the tensioner frequently if thats the case. While you're doing that you'll be able to tell whats up with the guide. You shouldnt be able to pull it downward. It should pivot on that bolt but you shouldnt be able to move the higher end any more than the merest smidgen, if that, but I dont think you need to worry about that.
As far as retorquing the head bolts, dont worry about it unless the head gasket starts to get seepy. With such low oil pressure as we have in these machines "blowing" a head gasket seems unlikely, and most "head gasket" leaks are actually the head oil plug leak (look it up and read)

PS - when you do start modding ( if you dont consider the verslavy a "mod")I suggest your first one be a general rejet, or at least the white spacer mod. Most people start mods with free flow intake or exhaust and in stock form this bike is on the razors edge of too lean and way too lean. A high flow air filter or free flow exhaust will only make this issue worse and is (im convinced) why my bikes valves went to crap so early. Ineclipse is having the same issues I was having until my recent top end rebuild and wouldnt you know it he's been running an open muffler with (we assume) stock jetting. (He doesnt want to open it up and find out). Read and read and read. Its all been done.

Firts thing, get it running. Then, one thing at a time, do any mods you decide you really want to do. Dont go tinkering in more than one place at a time, cuz then if it wont start or doesnt run right, you wont know where to go look.

Well that was not too bad.  Don't know why I was apprehensive about it.  All looks well.  Broke one of the rear muffler studs off.  Good thing I got a welder handy.  Looks like I will be doing the valves in a little bit. She looks good even naked huh.  My oldest boy likes to park his bike next to mine, and my littlest is not far behind him.

I could tell that it had been gotten into before, which made me feel better than no one ever looking at it.  I was highly disapointed that there was not a verslvy in there though  .  I started taking the oil filter off per instructions but then stoped because the less loose parts floating around the better right now.  So I took the exaust off, broke the stud, but it came off good none the less.

I took some pictures inside the exauhst hole, they show the valves in there.  They look very white, not sure if that is bad.  I know they are under a lot of heat.  

Here is a pic of what I saw when I opened it up
Any guesses on the distance?  
The answer is coming up.

I tried "wiggling" the guide, doesn't move more than an mm or two.  When I unscrew the top pin and wiggle it, the guide moves in conjuncture with the pin movement.  I am going to say that everything is ok with that aspect?

Here is a picture of the front guide.  Is this normal?

I also had a question on the surfaces of the clutch and cover.

Are they rubbing?

Well there it is.  If anyone would care to comment on what they see I would appriciate it.  I don't have much of an idea of what else I could be looking for while inside there.  Here are my thoughts, I am good with regards to the top pivot point on the rear guide, ooppsie avoided.  The tensioner is intact, but it is going to have to be replaced, (guessed the measurement yet?).  Chain looks alright, should I check it somehow?  I think I read about undoing the tensioner and at least seeing if you have any stiff links.  I think I am alright, but I am always open for opinions.  The inside looks very dirty, I am going to go on an oil changing spree for a while.  I changed the oil just this last monday, rode less than 200 miles and it is already pretty dirty.

Well here is the pic we have all been waiting for, not really all of us, mainly just the ones that care about this stuff.

Good timing huh?  Looks like it needs some work done.  Heres the issue.  I use this bike for daily commute.  I am confident in my welding capabilities so I am thinking I will do a tab mod to the adjuster.  That will give me piece of mind and enough time to get one from verslagen.  Bad idea?  If you want, not saying you have too, but if you want verslagen you can give me the specs for the tab.  That way when I replace it with yours, and send mine to you, it will have the tab.  Not sure if that is even something you want, but I thought I would throw it out there.  I would like to do the weld on mod just for now anyways, at 19mm I know I am not out all the way, but I would feel a whole lot better about ridding it if the mm#'s were smaller.