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wrenching 101 (Read 129 times)
Trippah
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wrenching 101
06/07/10 at 16:04:57
 
Hi folks..picked up my head at the  machine shop this day, broken header bolt complete with broken easyout both below the surface. Grin
1 year and 3 shops later, after quotes of $125-175 a shop in Springfield Ma did it for $20.  (Yes, a fellow motorcyclist) He wouldn't charge me what it cost in shop time, it was too much money.

The EDM did the job, I can now put the bike back together.  
I have little to no mechanical skill or knowledge so if you all could walk me through this, perhaps others could learn the basics also.

1)  Gonna buy a "cheap" Sears beam type torque wrench should it be a 3/4 drive like the metric socket set?  What range torque setting do I need to cover.

2)  The bolts.
A) Reuse all that I have replacing the broken exhaust header bolt or get new ones? There are quite a few for the head.
B)  Should I goop the bolts with something to either make it easy to remove them should I need to or atthe other extreme, something to make sure they doen't loosen with vibration.
((I told you, mechanics 101 Grin))

3) Last for now, can I reuse the thin gasket between the head and the cylender barrell?  Do I need any goop for this gasket?

Thanks for any help you can provide.. Tongue
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Trippah
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #1 - 06/07/10 at 16:08:58
 
As an aside..I now know where ther is a Duc Multistrada available for @12K.....it has 3000 miles on it. Oh, and a Moto Guzzi breva 1100 with 4100 for $6500. firm should any of you trusted savages have extra money to spend.  pm me if you want more info.
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #2 - 06/07/10 at 16:20:25
 
Trippah wrote on 06/07/10 at 16:04:57:
1)  Gonna buy a "cheap" Sears beam type torque wrench should it be a 3/4 drive like the metric socket set?  What range torque setting do I need to cover.


3/4" drive is awful big. Maybe you mean 3/8"?  I have had good luck with the "cheap" Northern Tool torque wrench and it is on sale for 30 bucks  Cheesy  Range is 5-80 ft*lbs which is good for most anything on the savage.
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mick
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #3 - 06/07/10 at 17:06:05
 
Trippah wrote on 06/07/10 at 16:04:57:
Hi folks..picked up my head at the  machine shop this day, broken header bolt complete with broken easyout both below the surface. Grin
1 year and 3 shops later, after quotes of $125-175 a shop in Springfield Ma did it for $20.  (Yes, a fellow motorcyclist) He wouldn't charge me what it cost in shop time, it was too much money.

The EDM did the job, I can now put the bike back together.  
I have little to no mechanical skill or knowledge so if you all could walk me through this, perhaps others could learn the basics also.

1)  Gonna buy a "cheap" Sears beam type torque wrench should it be a 3/4 drive like the metric socket set?  What range torque setting do I need to cover.

2)  The bolts.
A) Reuse all that I have replacing the broken exhaust header bolt or get new ones? There are quite a few for the head.
B)  Should I goop the bolts with something to either make it easy to remove them should I need to or atthe other extreme, something to make sure they doen't loosen with vibration.
((I told you, mechanics 101 Grin))

3) Last for now, can I reuse the thin gasket between the head and the cylender barrell?  Do I need any goop for this gasket?

Thanks for any help you can provide.. Tongue

all you really need is a shop manual,follow it to the letter and you cant go wrong.
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james may
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #4 - 06/07/10 at 19:38:42
 
yeah just follow the manual you can download it with bittorrent from piratebay.org  .  http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/3785883/Suzuki_LS_650_Savage__86_a__04_-_Serv...

and I agree the 3/4 is pretty big for a motorcycle tool.. I use a 1/4 skrewdriver socket and a 1/4 rachet to do most of the stuff on my bike it's mostly 10, 12mm bolts or smaller.. (maybe the oil drain is 14-17mm)

I am from holyoke(right next to springfield, ma) I could help ya out if your near by.. (western mass)
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #5 - 06/07/10 at 21:23:10
 
yes 3/8" drive will have a more usable range.
might even want a 1/4" drive

gasket between the cyl and head... new, dry I believe.

you can reuse the bolts, but you're going to loose some.

and I think you're supposed to use anti-seize, at least I did.

and pay attention to instructions

OF has a good run thru
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #6 - 06/07/10 at 22:35:20
 
+ 1 to Verslagen1

Get both torque wrench sizes - 1/4 and 3/8 - can be had for cheap at any autoparts store and believe it or not Sears.

Cylinder head gasket is a dry one time use gasket - get a new one and do not over torque the head bolts, or you will be doing this job again.

Get a new clutch cover gasket, and a new oil filter while your at it.

It your mileage is high, you may want to consider replacing your cam chain tensioner.  PM Verslagen1 and he will hook you up.  You will have to get a new chain thou....

Follow your Clymers manual and Savage Greg's CD if you have it, you do have it, right???

Pay attention while putting your cam chain back on, and PLEASE use some assembly lube on the cam and cam journals.  

Go easy on the permetex when putting your head cover back on, and don't forget to adjust your valves.

Use a little anti seize on your bolts, but do not over do it.

This is easy.  Just take your time.

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Trippah
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Re: wrenching 101
Reply #7 - 06/08/10 at 09:29:28
 
Thanks everyone for your helpful posts.  I have to sort out the parts and see what I've lost in the past year.  Yes i meant 3/8" drive, which most of my metric sockets are.

As the local Suzi shop is about 40 minutes away, for a few gaskets and a couple of bolts, their markip vs an online place can't be too great (can it?).  

James - Thanks for the offer - Holyoke is about 45 minutes away (i'm in the Brookfields)  so I may indeed ask for help from you.
My oldest daughter used the log Cabin for her marriage reception and I hate to think how many hours I'v spent at the Mall. Wink  
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