Klotz was not the first synthetic 4 stroke oil, Mobil 1 predates it by decades. So do several others.
Klotz was the first synthetic two stroke oil -- and it was the best two stroke oil (the low smoke was especially a nice feature) and I both used it and liked it in a Yamaha RD 400 for years.
I liked Klotz 2 stroke oil ... but I would not pay the $12 plus dollars a quart for Klotz for a 4 stroke motorcycle engine.
The reason nobody tests or knows anything about Klotz in the 4 stroke world is that it didn't exist for 4 strokes until a couple of years ago and even now it is considered a "racing only" oil.
All the claims Klotz makes for their Super Techniplate Technology were developed and proven in two stroke engines ... nobody knows what exactly it supposedly does for a 4 stroke engine anyway
as the old two stroke claims all had to do with making a good gas mixture and burning cleanly and then leaving a misting post combustion residue in the jug that lubed cylinder walls well.
How Klotz super techniplate technology helps a 4 stroke Savage engine (unless you got a skeeter fogger like one of us here does) is completely beyond me.
Mobil 1 was originally made exclusively as a group 1 ester based oil made from natural gas but some information about them beginning to use some super refined dino base oils (the new legal definition of synthetic allows this) in order to be able to price compete against all the other newer group 3 synthetic oil brands.
So it goes -- economics declare that group 3 is the new reigning "synthetic oil".
Mobil 1 also isn't a single additive formula any more -- the additives used vary according to the weight base and the intended use. Plus Mobil will change the stuff internally with no prior warning to their user base. (and they catch hell about it too)
If you use Mobil 1, use the motorcycle version of it.
T6 Synthetic Rotella is JASO tested and rated for bike use (sez so right on the jug) so the standard T6 blue jug stuff is good for your Savage.
Which is "better"? I can't say. No hard data exists as
no one will run synthetics in a bike long enough to really use them up, much less push them to the failure point.
So any proper weight range synthetic will work as well as any other since you will always change it too early anyway.
No, I can't say which is better. That's Bill's turf anyway - all them unsubstantiated claims of Zero wear and all.
I can say which synthetic oil is cheaper and does a good job of keeping your engine degunked and your clutch and gearbox operating well.
But lots of others here in motorcycle land say the same thing so I don't need to.
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Tappets. Cam chains. Cam lobes. 16000 to 1800 PPM of ZDDP is needed. Read your bottles as darn few modern oils have this much ZDDP in them now-a-days.
Use a ZDDP Booster product like this one to maximize the service life of your wear components.
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All I can add to the discussion is the wicker endorsement which doesn't mean much to most of you since you never break 5,000 rpm ever.
Rotella Syn spins it up good and shows very little wear and damage in very abusive situations. It can withstand any heat a spun up Savage can generate and not break down.
And I do change my oil twice a year now, even if it isn't really necessary.
I am simply chicken that way, sorry.
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