SuzukiSavage.com - Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?

verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28884 L.A. California Gender:	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #15 - 05/08/10 at 14:29:04 M38A1 wrote on 05/08/10 at 11:53:04: bill67 wrote on 05/08/10 at 11:48:53: Sea Foam in the oil. OK, total serious question. Is the Sea Foam comment a running joke? Yes, bill probably has it on toast in the morning. And no, it does work. But for engine work I'd rather use rotella dino diesel oil.
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bill67 Serious Thumper Offline old tired Posts: 8517 genoa city wisconsin Gender:	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #16 - 05/08/10 at 16:21:12 I didn't know your S40 was a diesel vers.
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verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28884 L.A. California Gender:	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #17 - 05/08/10 at 16:25:03 bill67 wrote on 05/08/10 at 16:21:12: I didn't know your S40 was a diesel vers. Not a S40 it's a D650
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M38A1

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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #18 - 05/08/10 at 16:34:39

We went to the local 'Zuk dealer today to check on pricing and availability for parts in the next phase of this problem. This is what we found:

2003 Suzuki Savage
Clutch, fibers set $60 EBC or $90 factory
Clutch, steels, set $50 factory
Spring pack, set $10
Clutch cover gasket $25
Clutch Pushrod $7

Oil Filter $7
O-Ring, Large $2
O-Ring, Small $2
Drain plug crush washer $2
Motorcycle specific oil, $7/qt

I think this ought to cover everything. Do the prices sound in-line? Are there preferred vendors everyone uses for these items I should go with?

Open to all suggestions still on what to do next. I think the obvious approach is to crack the right case open and see what the clutch pack looks like, evaluate and go from there.

Can someone point me to a thread for installation of the longer clutch pushrod? As cheap as that is, we might give it a try if it can be done without cracking the case. But a link would really help to understand it.

On a related note, Sharon emailed me and she's totally bummed about this. She bought the bike with 1100 miles on it and has brought it up to 6600 and now this. With your help, we'll get her back on the road.
.

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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #19 - 05/08/10 at 16:55:46

yes, more or less considering shipping.

gasket $17 a month or 2 ago
you don't have to replace the o-rings every time
the large one if it leaks, i've done it once over the past 3 years and it was the one that came with the bike.
drain plug washer, never.
rotella syn t6 is m/c rated. $19 a gal. at wally world.

tell her that this is to be expected while you are learning the finer arts of riding and maitenance of. Be glad it's simple and inexpensive to work on. and that help can be gotten for a hug and a squeeze.

if she expects perfection then buy a Beemer and marry a german mechanic.

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M38A1

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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #20 - 05/08/10 at 17:00:22

I ride an R1150GS and am dreading the day when a clutch is due. I'm at 76,000 +/- on the stocker now. Being a dry clutch, I literally have to crack the bike in half just to get to it. And it's not a couple hundred buck project either. Ouch.

Can the longer pushrod be installed externally? Or am I just delaying the inevitable of what is pointing towards a clutch pack?

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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #21 - 05/08/10 at 17:40:17

I've gone 46k on one bike and 30k on another.
1st one I put in ebc hd clutch springs when it started to slip in 5th.
Didn't know about the rod until recently.
Now I'm starting to see the same issue on the 2nd bike at about the same mileage. Soon I'll get into it and find out for sure.
But what I'm thinking is... is it needs the shorter rod.
clutch packs wear so that stack up gets shorter. so you have to back off the adjustment till the cam that pushes in the rod hits the inside of the case. then you can't adjust it anymore. so it starts slipping.

that's my take on it.

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Oldfeller--FSO Serious Thumper ModSquad Offline Hobby is now "concentrated neuropany" Posts: 12671 Fayetteville, NC Gender:	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #22 - 05/09/10 at 03:10:25 Longer rod, not shorter. As pack gets shorter, distance from case face increases, requires longer rod. I really didn't know for sure until I tried both ways during my last rebuild, and 1mm longer is the way you have to go.
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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #23 - 05/09/10 at 03:18:38

M38A1,

If you let that dealership put in all those parts you are letting them fleece you good.

You need to resolve to work on your own bike and save a lot of money.

You need to learn how to use search on Tech Section, or just carefully read all the headings and look at the posted materials -- there are pictorial break downs on how to do everything you have mentioned.

=============================

IF you decide to let the stealership fleece you -- tell them you want all the old parts they take out.

For example, I want your old clutch plates if you have no use for them.

Why?

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1273183239

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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #24 - 05/09/10 at 07:15:29

Oldfeller-
We only went to the dealer to check on pricing and availability of the parts for this. We've had no intentions of having them do the work. I do all my own work on the beemer, so this shouldn't be much different.

I'll explore the search function on these items. I mod on a forum that uses a different software package so I'm a little clumsy on this one right now.

I really do appreciate all the information so far. I just need to have Sharon decide where she want's to spend her $$ next, then tackle this thing to get her back on the road.

Again, thanks and keep it coming!

.

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justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #25 - 05/10/10 at 04:59:13 Oil Filter $7 O-Ring, Large $2 O-Ring, Small $2 Drain plug crush washer $2 Motorcycle specific oil, $7/qt I pay around 3 for a filter $2.00 for an O ring? Naaaah.. A drain plug washer? 2 bucks? Thats nuts Rotella T 15-40 costs about 10 bucks a gallon. Works great.
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Routy Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 2280 Winston Oregon Gender:	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #26 - 05/11/10 at 20:25:51 OP said the different gears didn't make any difference in the slippage. Well, it should have ! The faster the engine/clutch assembly is spinning, the less torque it has against it, and the less it would slip. Is there more here than meets the......story ?
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verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28884 L.A. California Gender:	Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable? Reply #27 - 05/11/10 at 20:46:38 What gear do you push start in? (higher or lower) The answer lies in the fact that it takes more hp to go faster.
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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #28 - 05/12/10 at 06:31:59

The answer lies in the fact that it takes more hp to go faster.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
No question about that.

But anytime you lower a gear ratio, whether in the final drive or in the tranny, the engine spins faster, and therefore less torque on the crank shaft/clutch assembly, which in turn the clutch will be much less likely to slip. Its always been that way where I came from Wink

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'07 S40 Blvd stocker, except drilled OEM exhaust and white spacer mod...1/2 (.055)

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bill67

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Re: Issue #2 - Clutch or cable?
Reply #29 - 05/12/10 at 08:08:29

Routy wrote on 05/12/10 at 06:31:59:

The answer lies in the fact that it takes more hp to go faster.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
No question about that.

But anytime you lower a gear ratio, whether in the final drive or in the tranny, the engine spins faster, and therefore less torque on the crank shaft/clutch assembly, which in turn the clutch will be much less likely to slip. Its always been that way where I came from Wink

Surprisingly it works the same way in Wisconsin.

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william h krumpen

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