The weather is getting nice for riding, and I got nothing to ride!

Okay, let me give some history first.  My bike is on its 3rd battery in 2 years.  They seem to get drawn down way sooner than they should.  The alternator is not original, because I did a total motor transplant about 3 years ago.  The starter, rectifier, relays, coil, all electrics (except for the wiring harness from the alternator to the rectifier) are original. I did the cam chain adjuster and new cam chain about a month or two ago. In the process, I found the three yellow wires (left side) from alternator to rectifier all had exposed copper due to damaged insulation.  I fixed those with crimp splices and electrical tape.  I also found that the blue wire (right side) from neutral switch to connector under the tank was badly frayed at the clutch cover entry point and I repaired it the same way.  

"Current" problem (pun intended):  After I finished putting it all back together, I rode it around the neighborhood some, no problems noted.  Rode it to town 5 - 10 miles several times, no problems.  One cold morning (27F) I was gonna ride it to work, went out to crank it and it turned over only weakly, not strong enough to start up, so I went to work in the car.  Tried it that evening when I got home and it cranked right up.  Last ride was about a week ago, headed to town on an errand.  Coming down the exit ramp, I noticed the thing just sputtered a little, then it totally died, felt like it just stopped firing.  I tried bump cranking it before it came to a stop, got nothing.  Came to a stop, tried to crank it with the start button, engine would turn but not fire up.  Being as I was only 3 miles from home, I called my wife and had her to bring the car and a tow rope and we hobbled it home that way.  Took battery out and charged it.  Put battery in, tried to crank, got nothing except the two heavy clicks from the automatic decompression action.  Checked spark plug, very white, but of course I can't test it for firing.  Have explored all of the wires and connectors for breaks, corrosion, etc.  Battery is probably not holding its charge, but it does the same thing when I try to jump start it.  Fuses appear good.  Lights work, horn works, turn signals and brake lights work.  Speedometer indicator lights work EXCEPT for the neutral light which would not activate after I put it all back together; I figured it was just a bulb, but now not so sure, could be something wrong at the neutral light junction under the clutch cover?

The Clymer manual details some electrical diagnostics, but most of them are done either with motor running or at least warmed up, which I am unable to do 'cause it won't fire up.

I know I'm gonna need a new battery, but don't want to install one until I find out what's drawing it down.  Any ideas of things to pursue would be greatly appreciated.  Seems like something is grounding or shorting out? or maybe the starter is shot?  If you can suggest any simple diagnostics I can try, please share.  My last resort will be to take it to a Suzuki shop I trust and see if they can diagnose it for me. 

with good everything except neutral lite, I'd begin there.  
But that's only a ground to turn the lite on.

Corrossion on the connectors for those yellow wires can cause battery problems, so splices there would be suspect.
But is it a battery issue?

I'd check out the starter relay.
The starter button has been an issue from time to time.  Can't hurt to clean it.

verslagen1 wrote on 03/18/10 at 07:38:24:


The Clymer wiring diagram for a 2000 shows the side stand diode between the neutral light and neutral switch.  I think it (and through it the neutral switch) is only relied upon to power the side stand relay when the sidestand is down.  Meaning it wouldn't explain the running engine cutout.

Do what verslagen said.  Might check the engine stop switch for corrosion too while you're in there.  If testing the starter relay works and the starter motor runs, then maybe the decomp controller is bad?  Not sure what else can make the decomp coil fire but not the starter motor.

3 batteries in 2 years also says something is wrong.  Maybe regulator is not regulating?

some good stuff in here...
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1099317926/15

Dasch has it right,.....check the basic stuff first, bypassing switches, sillynoids etc. If that works, then start adding the solenoid saftey switches etc. Use process of elimination.

If you do your own trouble shooting, work etc, you should have at minimum..........
1-  12v probe test light
2-  A hand held digital voltmeter
3-  A continuity checker w/ internal battery (could be in volt meter)

(caution, never touch a continuity tester to 12 volts)

Yes,....and most have a continuity scale in them also.

But for trouble shooting, a 12v test probe is probably used more than anything,.... much nicer for probing into wires etc, and getting into tight spots. The digital multimeter is better for technical voltage testing of batteries, and charging systems etc.


serenity3743 wrote on 03/22/10 at 05:16:23:

Before I say "starter relay is dead". Let me just confirm:
car + to bike +
car ground to bike ground
bike + to relay Y/B

If that's it - then... that's it!! Relay appears stuck or burned.
Disconnect relay and check continnuity with ohm meter beetween Y/B and Black contacts. We go from there.
If there is continuity - stuck. Try lightly knocking it with a screwdriver handle a few times. Maybe that releases it - short term solution, but it might get you spinning for now.

When you connect positive battery voltage to the little terminal on the starter relay, (which is what the starter button on the handlebars does)that should close (connect) the large terminals on the relay, which would in turn bring positive voltage from the battery to the starter making it spin.