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babyhog Serious Thumper Offline Find a Cure for Breast Cancer! NOW!! Posts: 3802 WV Gender:	Re: New Reply #150 - 04/05/10 at 17:30:25 kerosene, thanks for posting on your progress. I haven't posted on this thread (can't offer any assistance), but I've been following along, and interested in the outcome.... good luck to you! So how did your original cam tensioner look? Did you measure it? I'm pushing 5000 miles, and figure I'll be checking mine sometime this summer.
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Re: New
Reply #151 - 04/05/10 at 17:35:00

babyhog wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:30:25:

kerosene, thanks for posting on your progress. I haven't posted on this thread (can't offer any assistance), but I've been following along, and interested in the outcome.... good luck to you!

So how did your original cam tensioner look? Did you measure it? I'm pushing 5000 miles, and figure I'll be checking mine sometime this summer.

I'm at 23k,... still haven't checked it... Huh

...

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verslagen1

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Re: New
Reply #152 - 04/05/10 at 17:41:06

babyhog wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:30:25:

kerosene, thanks for posting on your progress. I haven't posted on this thread (can't offer any assistance), but I've been following along, and interested in the outcome.... good luck to you!

So how did your original cam tensioner look? Did you measure it? I'm pushing 5000 miles, and figure I'll be checking mine sometime this summer.

About 18mm out

keep your ears open sero.

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kerosene

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Re: New
Reply #153 - 04/05/10 at 17:53:51

im at 6700 and I was at 18mm (the point at which you should highly consider changing it I think 21mm is max) way I looked at is; "I'm down right now anyway, so might as well work on everything I can, and since this is one of those things that can give you a LOT more downtime" so... I spent some money...

70 for used (I think Michael refurbs them and makes modifications
130 for new (or 120)

Additionally you get 10 if you send your old one back to him (Michael provides a prelabeld box to send it back to him! I was stunned!! so sending the part back costs you 0.

Also, I don't know much about bikes, but I will say this, the new cam tensioner does tighten the chain A LOT, I remember the old tensioner made the chain wobble a little... the new one doesnt.

Oh! YES before I forget... Michael told me to lay the bike down to do the cam tensioner, I took a pic so you guys can see (it's on my failphone I'll upload it as soon as I get to my office tomorrow)

Also, as far as speedo goes, its really simple to do, and even if it doesnt work you loose 4 $ which isn't much.

Hopefully Michael will get back soon, I will check valves...

just another thing to make the buddy run better.

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Re: New
Reply #154 - 04/05/10 at 18:39:44

kerosene wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:53:51:

im at 6700 and I was at 18mm (the point at which you should highly consider changing it I think 21mm is max) way I looked at is; "I'm down right now anyway, so might as well work on everything I can, and since this is one of those things that can give you a LOT more downtime" so... I spent some money...

70 for used (I think Michael refurbs them and makes modifications
130 for new (or 120)

Additionally you get 10 if you send your old one back to him (Michael provides a prelabeld box to send it back to him! I was stunned!! so sending the part back costs you 0.

Also, I don't know much about bikes, but I will say this, the new cam tensioner does tighten the chain A LOT, I remember the old tensioner made the chain wobble a little... the new one doesnt.

Oh! YES before I forget... Michael told me to lay the bike down to do the cam tensioner, I took a pic so you guys can see (it's on my failphone I'll upload it as soon as I get to my office tomorrow)

Also, as far as speedo goes, its really simple to do, and even if it doesnt work you loose 4 $ which isn't much.

Hopefully Michael will get back soon, I will check valves...

just another thing to make the buddy run better.

Ok, I was going to do the light fix but the link was dead... so ... I ripped apart my light to see what could cause rattle (metal on metal)

First, the little hoodie over the light, that has direct metal on metal... I took some electric tape and ran it across wherever there were marks for the light, I laid the tape there, just enough so it doesnt expose itself... next the housing for the light, it has direct metal on metal with the light, I put some of the rtv silicone on the housing where the light meets the housing and where the screws go in... cant hurt anything but might make the world to stop the rattle...

Also, Michael advised the other way to fix is to put a rag in the light... I didnt feel comfortable with leaving a light next to something that gets really hot and where theres cables (regardless that they're not exposed.) Michael also made one more recommendation, tape the cables together, it will help with some rattle, since they hit against the housing.

Now off to check my valves, woot woot

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Re: New
Reply #155 - 04/05/10 at 21:20:17

kerosene wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:53:51:

Additionally you get 10 if you send your old one back to him (Michael provides a prelabeld box to send it back to him! I was stunned!! so sending the part back costs you 0.

oops

am I embarrassed, I threw that box in to take up space. It's used. Cheesy

sorry for the confusion, gotta remember to tear off the old labels.

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Re: New
Reply #156 - 04/05/10 at 22:24:34

check the float valve 1st
carb in hand or on bike is ok
hook it up to the tank.
2 ways to do this...
with the bowl off, you can use your finger to hold the float up.
turn the petcock to prime
does it leak... no good.
should hold it off
let the float drop and bleed off some gas
hope you put a catch pan under.
ok, 2nd way with bowl on
I'd take off the duct between the carb and airbox so you can see if it's flooding.
take the drain plug out of the bowl
close it off with your finger
turn it to prime
the carb should fill up and stop, check inside for flooding.
if it don't either the float level is incorrect or you got a bad float valve.

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Re: New
Reply #157 - 04/06/10 at 00:01:35

verslagen1 wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:41:06:

... ears open sero.

Always... at this point, I'm near paranoid.... I'll be contacting you soon...
even if it's only preventative...

I just hate pullin' that head cover....
My 302 ford mustang took 2 minutes for both sides!...
My Metro (aka...Suzuki Swift) takes even less!...
Geeez!... it's the worst part of a Savage!...

... if there's worse,... just don't tell me.... Huh

...

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Re: New
Reply #158 - 04/06/10 at 00:03:28

Serowbot wrote on 04/06/10 at 00:01:35:

verslagen1 wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:41:06:

... ears open sero.

Always... at this point, I'm near paranoid.... I'll be contacting you soon...
even if it's only preventative...

I just hate pullin' that head cover....
My 302 ford mustang took 2 minutes for both sides!...
My Metro (aka...Suzuki Swift) takes even less!...
Geeez!... it's the worst part of a Savage!...

... if there's worse,... just don't tell me.... Huh

...

serow.. its not the head... you take muffler off, right peg, detach clutch cable and then take the cam cover.. you'll need a new gasket for sure either way... NOTE: NO HEAD REMOVAL

Michael says you have to take the oil filter out... I didn't and I'm fine Tongue

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Re: New
Reply #159 - 04/06/10 at 00:15:15

Ok, so a tiny update...

I put the light assembly back together... no more rattle from it either...

Checked valves and reconfigured them to .004 (.003 to .005 is spec, so I chose middle.)

Cleaned up some wiring that was annoying me and was visible, cleaned up the cam cover, and misc things like that...

fun times

Baby hog/ anyone else, if you have any questions please feel free to ask...

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jlsmedic Junior Member Offline LIVE HARD RIDE HARD.....LIVE YOUR LIFE Posts: 68 Red Rock, AZ Gender:	Re: New Reply #160 - 04/06/10 at 00:23:39 Kero... I have a sneaky suspision that after you finish and get this darn thing driveable your gonna know how to rebuild the entire bike!!!
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Re: New
Reply #161 - 04/06/10 at 06:06:08

jlsmedic wrote on 04/06/10 at 00:23:39:

Kero... I have a sneaky suspision that after you finish and get this darn thing driveable your gonna know how to rebuild the entire bike!!!

to be completely honest, besides the things that I've done with Michael, I'm pretty confident I could do most things on it right now... as I was was telling Michael last night, yes it sucks that I'm down, but I'm glad because I'll be self sufficient.

"give a man a fish, he'll be fed for a day, teach a man to fish he'll be fed for life"

The only thing I have not really gone into is the head of the engine... but who know's I still have time before the raptor comes Roll Eyes

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Re: New
Reply #162 - 04/06/10 at 07:15:33

kerosene wrote on 04/06/10 at 00:03:28:

Serowbot wrote on 04/06/10 at 00:01:35:

verslagen1 wrote on 04/05/10 at 17:41:06:

... ears open sero.

Always... at this point, I'm near paranoid.... I'll be contacting you soon...
even if it's only preventative...

I just hate pullin' that head cover....
My 302 ford mustang took 2 minutes for both sides!...
My Metro (aka...Suzuki Swift) takes even less!...
Geeez!... it's the worst part of a Savage!...

... if there's worse,... just don't tell me.... Huh

...

serow.. its not the head... you take muffler off, right peg, detach clutch cable and then take the cam cover.. you'll need a new gasket for sure either way... NOTE: NO HEAD REMOVAL

Michael says you have to take the oil filter out... I didn't and I'm fine Tongue

I get that feelin' when I think about splitting the cases so I can mess with the tranny...
just to clarify, kero had just done an oil change, so changing the oil or filter at this time was not warranted.

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Re: New
Reply #163 - 04/06/10 at 18:17:04

verslagen1 wrote on 04/05/10 at 22:24:34:

check the float valve 1st
carb in hand or on bike is ok
hook it up to the tank.
2 ways to do this...
with the bowl off, you can use your finger to hold the float up.
turn the petcock to prime
does it leak... no good.
should hold it off
let the float drop and bleed off some gas
hope you put a catch pan under.
ok, 2nd way with bowl on
I'd take off the duct between the carb and airbox so you can see if it's flooding.
take the drain plug out of the bowl
close it off with your finger
turn it to prime
the carb should fill up and stop, check inside for flooding.
if it don't either the float level is incorrect or you got a bad float valve.

Ladies and Germs, let me introduce you to todays episode of "WHAT IS NOT KEROS PROBLEM" today as our first contestent we kave kerosene's red savage (oooo ahhh goes the crowd)

We test and tested and all ideas failed... including today testing the carb... by fail ofcourse we mean that it passed with flying colors... (claps audience)

Thanks for playing WHAT IS NOT KEROS PROBLEM (cheers crowd)

Ok bad news my puzzeld friend... floater works, tested both ways... when I ha the float bowl off and upside down, i pushed down (to open) on the bobber the gas would flow (slowly since it was upside down... but would flow) I then flipped the bugger right side up and held up (to close) petrol would not flow... maybe 1 or 2 drops here and there... but not to the extent of what I saw with the airbox...

So I put the float bowl back on... took the drainplug off and ran on prim, would not overflow to the air vent side (tilted it a little just to be sure) then I would release the plug let it drain and see if it continues to flow heavly (does not) starts trickling like it did with the carb off entirely (which tells me that the carb is not overflowing...) I tried both a few times just to be sure...

so what's left... the bloody petcock...

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verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28884 L.A. California Gender:	Re: New Reply #164 - 04/06/10 at 19:24:31 errr so you had it apart, for the benefit of the crowd gathered about and cheering... what jets do you got? put it back together, say the magic word and let her rip.
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