WITNESS MARK THE HOLLOW PINS WITH A SCRATCH AWL SO YOU KNOW WHICH END GOES IN AND THE EXACT ORIENTATION OF THE PIN WILL BE REPEATED EACH TIME YOU DO IT (important)
Ok, got your ideas in your head straight, time to take out the hollow locating pins. They stick in one half or the other and can sometimes be simply pulled out with needle nose pliers. If stuck harder, don't grip them hard and try to pull them, use a tap instead. Pick a tap that will just barely engage the ID (english or metric, makes no difference). Just barely get the teeth biting on the tap then use the tap as a striking surface (from the other side of the cover of course) with a long punch to tap the pin out.
Do not warp the pins -- they need to be true & round to put things back together with a good alignment.
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Tape a full size sheet of 120-180 grit sand paper to your wife's formica kitchen counter. Normal sandpaper tears too easy, go get some stiff backed sandpaper. Lowes sells 3M Sandblaster paper which is stiff backed enough for about the same price as normal sandpaper -- looks like wet or dry on steriods and it does the job jest dandy.
(Hey, did you notice the rubber band used to keep your adjuster tips up off the sandpaper?)You want a "medium grit open coat" sandpaper, you need it to not load up and you DO NOT WANT THE GRITS TO COME OFF THE PAPER. Using 120 grit Sandblaster I just brushed the copious aluminum dust off of it with a new paint brush periodically and it was unfazed by the hard aluminum it was removing. You will NOT press hard so your sanding marks won't be all that gross but you don't want it to take 3-4 forevers to remove the needed .010" of material either.
You are going to flat sand that cover "crooked" on purpose. The long narrow bearing does not need nearly as much material removed as the larger bearing end does. Also, there is no 3rd bearing journal on the cover, so you are just sanding to true the narrow and fat middle journal so keep your head on straight as you begin stroking the cover on the sand paper.
YOU DO NOT PRESS HARD, THIS IS INTENTIONALLY SLOW GOING !!
Stop and do a trial fit just as soon as you have clean up (sanding marks) over the entire surface. You don't have to put the pins back in at this rough stage, you are nowhere near close enough for them to matter much yet.
You need this very early reality check
as you likely are not tilting the cover enough. You sand it "tilted" by putting all the finger pressure on the one side. If you need even more tilt put some scotch tape on the edge of the narrow end that you don't want sanded -- you may have to replace the tape several times as it is removed while maintaining your tilt.
Scotch tape in place NOW, please !!!As you do the finger motion checks note the slop is decreasing effectively much more on the long narrow end of the cam journals -- this is your danger zone and why you must use tape and tilt to remove the big end slop while NOT removing all the clearance at the narrow long end.
When your finger checks tell you that you are getting close, stop, clean everything up, put the hollow locator pins back in place and do a full torque on all bolts plastigage assembly check.Amazing, using finger sensations alone you actually got it almost inside factory specifications and WAY WAY inside the maximum wear limits .... fairly quick and easy too.
Ugh .... it is tough not to take off too much on this narrow long end !!!
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This is the outside single half bearing end on the outside of the cam chain --
it always carries load on a refitted journal set and must be considered and measured too. The narrow long end and this end will be what goes into engagement first on any tilt fit job, so consider them carefully as the middle bearing can actually run in air (no engagement) if these two tell it to do so.
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Ok, due to damage this middle journal (the one with the half moon clip) is running in air right now. It is also slightly out of factory spec too. This situation indicates that my sanding tilt on the top cover wasn't quite enough, so when I go for final fitting I need to try to fix this situation somewhat. I will need to take the clearance of the outer two saddle blocks down to .001" or slightly below to get that middle block into factory print range (this means slightly more tilt and just about no more removal on the narrow end)
This is hard to explain verbally -- there is no top half to that outside bearing saddle, so by tilting the sand job you are lowering the middle top half to remove the remaining slop while keeping the narrow long bearing up enough for it to continue spinning.
Go slow here -- going too far means scraping curved bearing journals to fix it and that is way much harder than simply not going that far in the first place.
Next, at this stage and beyond all fitting needs to be done with hollow locator pins in place and all bolts tightened to factory torque specs. Not doing this will cause errors and you having to scrape at curved journals to fix the goof ups.===================================
Or, since you are WAY WAY well within Clymer/Suzuki .0059" acceptable wear limits and only one thousandth off factory specs on only the one middle journal you
could just quit while you were ahead !!!
I'm done ....
You can fart around and spend a whole lot of time
fixing your attempts to make this thing 100% perfect, or you can be happy with "functionally good" and just go on with your life.
You got other things to fix about this engine, so go on about it -- just be happy you got lucky on your first try.
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