SuzukiSavage.com - Forward Controls

verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28886 L.A. California Gender:	Re: Forward Controls Reply #15 - 03/05/10 at 14:11:59 It's normal to have a leak from those bolts if they're loose.
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Routy Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 2280 Winston Oregon Gender:	Re: Forward Controls Reply #16 - 03/05/10 at 16:13:31 Thanks, now if I could just stay w/ this job maybe I could get done before it runs outta oil
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Ed L. Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline "We All go a Little Crazy Sometimes" Norman Bates Posts: 2808 Sunny Florida Gender:	Re: Forward Controls Reply #17 - 03/05/10 at 16:53:59 If you need any tips let me know. I can send you a CD that shows how I did it. It's cool that you are making a set on your own.
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Routy Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 2280 Winston Oregon Gender:	Re: Forward Controls Reply #18 - 03/05/10 at 18:28:28 Thanks for the offer Ed. I'll see how it goes. I just kinda needed a project while its too chilly to ride, and this one has a little challenge in it for sure. But I have the RS about done, except for the brake rod ext. And I only needed to break out the cutting wheel once so far... for an "oops"
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Routy Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 2280 Winston Oregon Gender:	Re: Forward Controls Reply #19 - 03/06/10 at 19:12:35 I got the right side done, works b-u t-ful ! I now got the left side apart. Am I blind, or is the shift pedal, ball, and rod end one assy that can't be taken apart ? Same thing for the tranny lever, ball, and rod end ?
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Ed L. Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline "We All go a Little Crazy Sometimes" Norman Bates Posts: 2808 Sunny Florida Gender:	Re: Forward Controls Reply #20 - 03/07/10 at 13:25:51 You have right and left handed threads on the shift rod so you can remove the rod. The little ball joint that mounts on the shift lever and pedal can't be taken off, at least I've never been able to take them apart with destroying them. I think they are riveted on so to answer the question no you are not blind
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Routy

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Re: Forward Controls
Reply #21 - 03/09/10 at 10:58:18

Ok, I just made an extention for the shift linkage.
Drilled and tapped both ends of a 4" pc of 5/16 solid round stock.
($8 for a 6mm tap ? Wow, I still feel that one !)
Screwed one end onto the RH end of the existing link, and screwed a threaded stud (cut head off 1" bolt) into the other end, works great.

I'm about done w/ the left side now, but the long engine bolts are really too short w/ the added 3/8 plate on the left side. I'm not sure what to do about that just yet. Right now I have 3/8 all thread going thru them. Maybe by leaving the flat washers off, and machining the heads of the bolts back about a 1/4", that'll make up the 3/8.

Then cleanup the plates, and decide to paint, or powdercoat, or chrome. I try to post some pics soon.

Ed L. wrote on 03/07/10 at 13:25:51:

You have right and left handed threads on the shift rod so you can remove the rod. The little ball joint that mounts on the shift lever and pedal can't be taken off, at least I've never been able to take them apart with destroying them. I think they are riveted on so to answer the question no you are not blind Cheesy

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Rich
'07 S40 Blvd stocker, except drilled OEM exhaust and white spacer mod...1/2 (.055)

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Ed L.

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Re: Forward Controls
Reply #22 - 03/09/10 at 18:13:22

My first sets were made out of 1/2 inch aluminum plate and the only way I could make them fit was by grinding down the mounts that the long bolts go thru. I was thinking about recessing the mounts into the plate but didn't think that it would of been strong enough. The way I looked at it was if I ever wanted to go back to normal, what ever that is, all I needed to do was make up the difference with some washers.

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Silver '02, clubman handle bars, Cobra headlight, Sportster muffler, K+N stock air filter, 152.5 main, Superbrace, oil cooler, 1/2 inch aluminium plate forward controls, spark advance, goes like stink

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Routy

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Re: Forward Controls
Reply #23 - 03/09/10 at 20:58:18

Thanks Ed.
If I had a mill, I think I would recess the holes on the outside of the plates, an 1/8" or so to pickup a couple more threads.

Or maybe countersink the holes, then machine a taper on the nuts,...like lug nuts. That would pick up plenty. I'll get it one way or another.

I was getting ready to paint, but then remembered I forgot all about the heat sheild. I want to add a tab for that, and drill the holes.

Ed L. wrote on 03/09/10 at 18:13:22:

My first sets were made out of 1/2 inch aluminum plate and the only way I could make them fit was by grinding down the mounts that the long bolts go thru. I was thinking about recessing the mounts into the plate but didn't think that it would of been strong enough. The way I looked at it was if I ever wanted to go back to normal, what ever that is, all I needed to do was make up the difference with some washers.

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Rich
'07 S40 Blvd stocker, except drilled OEM exhaust and white spacer mod...1/2 (.055)

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