Try this link. www.tandyleatherfactory.com They might have your stuff. I am going to do some leather work this winter and would be interested in what you find. I do know that the web site has a bunch of info on treating, dyeing, etc. leather. They also said the way to shape leather is to soak it in water and form it, let it dry and it will stay in that shape. Your seat is already molded!  

Ive had $$$ & Ive had free time, but never did I have both at the same time.

100% pure Neatsfoot oil is THE best leather threatment available.
It has been used for well over century.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 01/05/10 at 15:03:03:

I've worn brain-tanned leather (and helped make it), it's about the consistency of a chamois, and soaks up water just as good.  The oil in it is probably what made the water bead off the sidewalk, but the tanic acid(?) in it is why they use it for tanning, to break down the fibers a little, and make it softer.  Probably wouldn't do much for the seat, but make it stink, and they DO stink!

LANCER wrote on 01/06/10 at 11:01:57:




I agree absolutely.  I've used it for years.  My brother and I bought new, very heavy leather bomber pilot jackets when we were in our late teens, 40 years ago.  He did not treat his leather with anything, however took good care of it otherwise.  After the first 5 years, I treated mine with a MINIMAL amount of Neatsfoot oil once a year, every year.  His jacket dried out and cracked so badly, he threw it away. Mine still looks like the day it was new, except for normal crease marks.  After about 35 years, the stitching started to come loose in the high wear areas like the pocket seams, cuffs and where the heavy zipper assembly attaches to the leather, so I took it to a specialist who re-sews this sort of thing, and he was amazed that the jacket was 40 years old.

I've used a lot of leather conditioners. I like mink oil for shoes and a touch up after I've cleaned the leather. Saddlesoap is lanolin with soap - to clean leather and treat it - really just a cleaning setup with minimal treatment - like a saddlesoap glycerin bar - same thing. Neatsfoot oil is a good oil for new leather and old leather. Carrige harness is soaked in neatsfoot oil for the first treatment - then only used after leather was rained on and needed a restorative. I've also used it heavily on leather boots- good for a day in the snow, but water still gets through - just more slowly (same as mink oil). My favorite is Leather New Balsam - a 1 step treatment -  for new and old leather.  
Leather gets wet and the oil being lighter than water lifts and the water sneaks in. Oils slow it up, but that is all. Leather can't be waterproofed. You can only make it resistant to water.  
Another way to go about it is by coating it with a flexible covering (polyurethane based perhaps). Silicon might work- never tried it except on suede.
I've just let leather dry and re-oiled it. Mink oil has to be thick to stop water and then is not so good to sit on. Finished colored leathers are not as receptive to oils and take more time for the conditioner to soakl in.

Goodluck- carry a rain cover - plastic bag for an emergency cover!

tcreeley wrote on 01/07/10 at 18:27:14:


There's a thought,.. what do horse people use?...  They been dealin' with wet leather for centuries...

Here's Tcreeley's saddlebag store link...
http://www.horseloverz.com/search.php?si=off&ss=leather+care