BurnPbh, give me a call and see if I can help you figure out where improvements can be made. I never tried mine with the oldfeller technique. Nah, WAY to restrictive for a higher flowing than stock setup.
The turbulator is simply the honeycomb screen that is in the air inlet side for the carb intake boot. The length of the individual tubes of the honeycomb structure should be 7 times the diameter of the tubes. Each honeycomb cell does it's part in straighteneng out the air. The summation of deturbulized air exiting the screen, each running in parallel, doesn't necessarily speed up the air as much as it removes the elements from stocl form that cause turbulence and thus slowing down the air to begin with. That is stage 1.
Every bit as important is Stage 2. The air intake boot. The venturi effect caused by a progressively narrowing of the intake between the turbulator and the mouth of the carb does wonders.
So, step 1 (remove turbulence) and step 2 (pre-carb venturi) combine to produce high velocity air which means inreased vacuum. The increased vacuum helps to pull the fuel up through the jet, while the momentum of the faster air atomize the gas better and improves cylinder filling.
Sure, any intake adjustment is going to shift power from one rpm range to another. But that's the great thing about the LS650. 95% of your riding is gonna be between about 1100-4200 rpms. The trade off is that this intake design, when used with proper filtration, works well until the overall design starts to become restrictive at about 5100 rpms. But, honestly, who the hell spends much time riding above 5100 rpms. At times that I thought I was I found out I was only pushing about 4200.
I used what I learned from the successful bike project to make an intake for my '04 Yukon. I spend 98% of the time between 800-3000 rpms. I designed it so that I'm getting some serious air velocity from start off and through my normal driving rpm ranges. I never hit 4800 rpms on the Yukon so I don't care about the the airway starting to get restrictive at that range cause i don't ever drive in that range.
I like having max intake velocity at start off (tons of torque) and at all of my usual riding rpm ranges cause I love the torque. If I wanted to ride with my bike or Yukon at 5000-6000 rpm all the time, I's just go with an open velocity stack.
Regarding the filtration material. Your pulling more air at any given rpm with the turbulator setup so the filtration material has to match the new airflow demands. That the tricky part.
Here's the setup on my Yukon. Stock, the truck was wimpy in that it lacked torque at start off but started to kick in at about 2000 rpm.
First- stock intake: notice how open the free flowing the are passage is:
Modded intake designed for increased air velocity at lower rpms:
There are three taper points with each adding a little acceleration although the narrower length contributes the most amount of velocity increase. I have a turbulator installed at the mouth of the narrower tube. The length of the narrowed portion is the main trick. Make it say 3" longer and I got gobs upon gobs of torque from start to maybe 2000 rpm then it starts to become restrictive. Make it say 3" shorter and torque doesn't kick in until about 1700 but engine runs fine at 4500 rpms (which I never do unless i'm doing 110mph- shift points are about 2800 to 3200). In fact, similar to the bike, half inch increments in length in either direction produce a corresponding change in the powerband. The idea is to determine the powerband you are in 90% of the time and design the intake to maximize flow for that range. This setup in the Yukon gives me gobs of throw-you-back-into-the-seat torque from start thru all the shift points and does great at 85mph. Above 85mph, say 90mph, the engine runs 200 rpm higher to achieve the same speed which is evidence of the intake starting to get to hit the restrictive range. But I don't drive past 80 and spend only about 10% at the speed anyways. Much more fun pulling away at the stop lights and driving around town with gobs of torque.
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