They considered the clutch pack "worn out" and replaced all the friction plates completely unnecessarily every time they ran out of pivot travel.


 
I did not know that. I know that as the clutch on a car wears, the toe play in the pedal goes away, so the clutch has to be adjusted looser.

Sure you do .... remember all the endless bitching about that the "worn out" clutch plates people took out of the bike all measured well within the Clymer/Suzuki service specs?

Duh, they were still useable plates -- nobody had tripped over the clutch rod length thing or the fact that Suzuki sold clutch rods in 1mm longer increments for this very reason.

Our bikes have a limited adjustment range on the clutch adjustment and on the rear brake adjustment that require you to DO SOMETHING so as to be able use up the rest of the friction material.

As the plates wear the whole stack gets shorter.  As the stack gets shorter the bearing plate on top of the stack (and the rod) moves away from the static cover.  As the distance increases the rod must get longer.

But I would be perfectly content to have it ass-backwards if that is the case.  But I don't think so, which is why I keep an engine on my desk next to my computer so I can go look at confusing stuff like this before typing -- saves me from embarrassing myself any more than is necessary.  But I do reserve the right to be occasionally wrong (because on this one I might be).

Also, your rod wears a bit on the end that sticks out as it rubs against the powdered metal pusher while the engine is turning and the clutch is held in.

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 10/25/09 at 04:46:04:




Id have to have one opened up & hold the parts in my hand to get it. Well, to have a CHance at getting it. It took me quite a while to understand, not accept but realize exactly WHY the car clutch did what it does, as I adjusted them out( car, truck, ehh,, big pressure plate & a throw out, sameeey Sameeey)

AHAAA! Eureeka, I think it just flashed "Up there"..So, as the plates get thinner, the Stop for the rod moves to the center of the bike?

Phelonious, where does your side case mounted lever sit in the total span of actuation as marked on the main case by the two marks?

Folks have theorized that the clutch lever can break the little powdered metal eccentric portion when it starts binding against the case or jacking at the end of the rod at an extreme angle.

You are likely dealing with the same rod situation we are talking about -- but you can discover that on your own by your own methods.

  There is no crappy oil.

Good deal! I'll roll with it and see how well it does.