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Carb Mix Screw (Read 334 times)
Bubba
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #15 - 10/20/09 at 10:08:42
 
Serowbot, that is exactly what I was looking for...it explains a lot now. I guess it would be possible to get the new Dyna and not even have to rejet huh?
I read on the forum that if I go beyond 3 turns on the air mix screw then it's time to rejet...right?
Thanks guys!
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'06 lt Blue, Dyna Power pipe, air screw 2 1/4 turns, 52.5 pilot w/ bleed holes, 150 Main, 2/3 spacer, Pirelli MT66 tires, Raptor petcock, 412-4006 Progressive shocks
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #16 - 10/20/09 at 10:29:36
 
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 10/20/09 at 02:23:31:
Too lean.  If you want factory settings, don't remove the brass plug.

=============

Remove the brass plug and you let the genie out of the bottle.  Then you have to fiddle with it all the time, because you can.  And it makes a difference when you do, things get better.  And then worse. And then better.

Then you start keeping mileage logs and fiddle by quarter turns and keeping characteristic logs for each setting.

Then you realize that it changes by season too.   And altitude.

=============

The screw should turn easily.  If not, it is corroded in place with brass oxidation and you need to hit it with a penetrant spray like Kroil or WD40 before attempting to force it.

=============

Don't turn it out more than 3 turns or it can vibrate out and fall out when riding.  There is a spring behind it that gives it retaining friction.


I drilled a small hole in the plug and removed the plug. I used a small screwdriver to see if the screw would turn. The screw in mine turned so free that I thought there may have been something wrong. Thanks for the info.

Now another question. Since the screw turns so free what do you do to get the setting on the screw to stay?

<><Fish
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #17 - 10/20/09 at 15:30:37
 
Read the last sentence in the quote.  

Take yours out all the way and see if there is a spring behind it.  Don't lose the little spring, you'd have to buy a carb  to get a replacement spring ....  

(jest kiddn'n -- they'd really make you buy a whole new motorcycle)

Or you could rape a ball point pen or something.
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #18 - 10/20/09 at 16:34:34
 
Who says its moving? Mark it, ride it, check it.
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #19 - 10/20/09 at 20:36:08
 
Serowbot wrote on 10/20/09 at 10:02:31:
Our bikes are jetted to pass emission standards at sea level, where they are delivered...  that makes them a little lean at sea level, but at 5000ft you may actually be a bit rich, or likely close to correct, with stock jetting.

Lean backfire is a common problem, because most populations are at sea level.  
You can get a rich backfire too...
Lean backfires happen when there's not enough fuel in the cylinder to make a good boom, and unspent fuel goes past the combustion chamber into the pipe.
Rich backfires have too much fuel and not enough oxygen for a good boom, and again, unspent fuel goes into the pipe and pops there...

A good indicator of overall jetting is the weather...if popping/backfiring increases on humid days, or at higher elevation, that indicates rich....less popping at those times indicates lean.

Also,.. too low of an idle speed will cause backfire on decel... you might just try raising your idle speed by 100rpm or so, and see if that helps...


Ok, can you point in the right direction to up the idle?  Right now the bike tends to die, especially now that the weather is cold, until it has run for a minute or two.  I have to pull the choke on really cold days.
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #20 - 10/20/09 at 21:03:57
 
While a lot is said about "hot and lean" shortening the life of the engine, remember that the hotter the engine temp is,  the more efficient (more hp) it will run.  And the hotter the engine temps run, the less cylinder wear will occur. But excessive heat could take its toll on valves if anything.
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #21 - 10/20/09 at 21:41:58
 
Routy wrote on 10/20/09 at 21:03:57:
While a lot is said about "hot and lean" shortening the life of the engine, remember that the hotter the engine temp is,  the more efficient (more hp) it will run.  And the hotter the engine temps run, the less cylinder wear will occur. But excessive heat could take its toll on valves if anything.


Just curious, where did you learn this? What is your background in mechanics? I'm trying to figure out 'where you're coming from' or who told you this.
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #22 - 10/20/09 at 22:15:07
 
Tonydtiger1971 wrote on 10/20/09 at 20:36:08:
Ok, can you point in the right direction to up the idle?  Right now the bike tends to die, especially now that the weather is cold, until it has run for a minute or two.  I have to pull the choke on really cold days.

Knurled screw, turns with your finger on the left side of the bike, under the petcock lever...  turn clockwise...

Quote:
Routy wrote on Today at 8:03pm:
While a lot is said about "hot and lean" shortening the life of the engine, remember that the hotter the engine temp is,  the more efficient (more hp) it will run.  And the hotter the engine temps run, the less cylinder wear will occur. But excessive heat could take its toll on valves if anything.


Just curious, where did you learn this? What is your background in mechanics? I'm trying to figure out 'where you're coming from' or who told you this.

I think Versy told him...   and Versy knows stuff...
Just kidding Ridge... messin' with Routy... Grin

Hot engines do run better,.. that's why we warm them up... not overheating, but hot...
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #23 - 10/20/09 at 22:21:02
 
Hot engines do run better,.. that's why we warm them up... not overheating, but hot...

I agree, but that ain't what he said. A few years ago I could have shown him some parts that didn't agree with him either. :'( :'(
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #24 - 10/21/09 at 05:54:49
 
In all this discussion, I notice no one answered the original question. What is the factory setting for the idle mixture screw?
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Eschew obfuscation.

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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #25 - 10/21/09 at 06:11:34
 
My guess is that the idle mix screw is set to whatever it takes to get it to pass emmissions...like I said earlier, mine was set at 1 1/4 turns but the brass cap had already been pulled so I guess it's anybody's guess.
Since I'm a mile high it seems to be pretty happy there ( no backfires and just a little fart on shutdown)
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #26 - 10/21/09 at 06:20:53
 
According to my Suzuki shop manual published March 1995, the pilot screw is preset. For 88 models, the word preset is followed by (3.0).
For 95 models, it says, after removing plug, determine the setting by slowly turning it clockwise & counting the number of turns to lightly seat the screw. Turn the screw ccw to remove it.
NOTE: This counted number is important when reassembling pilot screw to original position.
When installing the pilot screw, turn it in fully but not tightly. From that position turn it out the same number as counted during removal.
Install the new plug in the pilot screw hole.

Taken straight from the book.  Cool
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #27 - 10/21/09 at 07:27:43
 
It is well known, or you can google any amount of info on it.......
Hot engine... cold air ! The more the difference between the two, the more HP an engine will produce.
Add humidity to the cold air, and you will have even more HP.
You haven't noticed, "anything" has more hp on a cold humid day ?
Why do you suppose we run engines at near or above boiling temps ?
Its because we want as much HP as possible w/ as least emmissions as possible, and have less cylinder wear at the same time.

When checking cylinder wear (taper) you will always find the most wear in the front cylinders nearest to the radiator, because they are running cooler. The wear is consistently less as you move to the rear cylinders.

Of course, heat can also destroy an engine,....need I explain ?

BTW, being as you asked,......
I started in auto repair shops as a kid, overhauling engines.
In the 60s I graduated to a GM tech, working at  GM dealerships, more short blocks than overhauls, later retiring from being a Kohler engine mech for a commercial "Walker Mower" shop.

 
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #28 - 10/21/09 at 10:00:46
 
I just checked the specs on the carb in the Clymers.
On page 219 it states that the pilot screw is set at 1 3/4 turns back (at least for model 24C6)
Hope that helps...
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Re: Carb Mix Screw
Reply #29 - 10/21/09 at 18:38:18
 
Serowbot wrote on 10/20/09 at 22:15:07:
Tonydtiger1971 wrote on 10/20/09 at 20:36:08:
Ok, can you point in the right direction to up the idle?  Right now the bike tends to die, especially now that the weather is cold, until it has run for a minute or two.  I have to pull the choke on really cold days.

Knurled screw, turns with your finger on the left side of the bike, under the petcock lever...  turn clockwise...

Quote:
Routy wrote on Today at 8:03pm:
While a lot is said about "hot and lean" shortening the life of the engine, remember that the hotter the engine temp is,  the more efficient (more hp) it will run.  And the hotter the engine temps run, the less cylinder wear will occur. But excessive heat could take its toll on valves if anything.


Just curious, where did you learn this? What is your background in mechanics? I'm trying to figure out 'where you're coming from' or who told you this.

I think Versy told him...   and Versy knows stuff...
Just kidding Ridge... messin' with Routy... Grin

Hot engines do run better,.. that's why we warm them up... not overheating, but hot...


Thank you Smiley
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For all have sinned, and come short of the glory of God: For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.
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