Voldi, his point with the Rotella syn was that he was jacking his oil change interval up from 5,000 miles to something a lot higher and his mates chided him for excessive build up of minerals in his oil analysis (air borne dust and dirt).

Our bikes don't have good enough air filtration and we lack the bypass oil filtration to really utilize the full mileage potential of Rotella Synthetic (which could be as high as 15,000-20,000 miles on a motorcycle).  So he went back to plain old dino Rotella as he was getting 5,000 miles per change on white jug dino Rotella T and it was a lot cheaper for him to change out.

So, the guy with all the 210,000 motorcycle miles finally concludes that he can buy the cheapest diesel oil (CJ-4 rating) that he can find and still keep on racking up the miles .... hey, he has the miles to have the opinion and I don't dispute his feelings.   Diesel oil is good stuff.

Why do I use Rotella Syn?   My Savage is an air cooled engine that can get into extreme overheating scenarios and get way way hot -- so I like the extreme overheat resistance of the Syn oils.  Plus it "warms up" instantly in the winter
(no warm up lag at all) and I find I like that.

Plus I'm a wicker, and I do like the revvability of the engine when using the stuff.   It makes as much difference in performance as unstopping the air intake system did, which says a lot for the oil actually making a positive change in your riding.

(and yes, I expect folks to call me on this statement if they don't find a similar experience after the first two (2) crankcases of the new Rotella Syn T6 oil -- as the first one will clean all the crap out of your engine and scare you to death because it got all nasty in such a hurry -- all the detergents and soot dispersants will flat give your engine an enema during that first oil change)

Plus I am interested in the wear characteristics of this syn oil vs a known very good dino version of the same oil that was good for 210,000 miles.  You got comparative data on rings, bore and other motor parts referred to here ...  (you want to let your rings & bore wall break in before going to the stuff -- or they never will apparently)

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iw...


============

I wouldn't put diesel oil in any catalytic converter equipped car that is relatively new or that is EVER going to get any form of emissions control testing.   ZDDP will kill any new 2nd generation catalytic converter and all modern cars have them as standard equipment.

Conversely, I have a 20 year old car that I do put the stuff in as my catalytic converter has been shot for over a decade and my 1990 vehicle is not subject to EPA exhaust pipe tests (grandfathered).

============

And yes Bill, we know it hurts.  

At least I'm not twisting the knife or doing any of the mean stuff Verslagen or Justin do to you when you lost an oil war.

Actually, I feel sorta bad setting you up like that  ....

      (fish in a barrel and all)

But it is good to see you "never say die" no matter how bad it gets.

Change it before storage -- why give the crankcase acids 6 months to chew on stuff just sitting there in storage?   Let it sit in clean oil instead.

  The longest I let oil sit in a motorcycle was 20 years,the bike was driven 5 miles a year the  last 10 years of that 20,I sold the bike with 28000 miles on it and the last I heard the new owner had put another 10000 miles on it and it was still running good.

And for those who didn't bother to click on the link given earlier in this endless oil war .....

Daniel,

First, let me assure you - there has not been any significant change
in the Shell Rotella T Synthetic Oil SAE 5W-40 - although you will
begin seeing it as Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Oil SAE 5W-40 in the
near future. It still is (and will be) a diesel engine oil (as
signified by the API C-series specification listings), and still does
(and will) meet the requirements of JASO MA. It also still (and
will) carry the API S-series recommendations for gasoline engines.

However, I do want to address one thing you mentioned. There really
are no API specifications for 4-cycle motorcycle engine oils.

Thank you for your interest in Shell Lubricants!

Regards,
Edward A. Calcote
Staff Chemist
Shell Lubricants US Technical Information Center

"So, the guy with all the 210,000 motorcycle miles (Yamaha FJR) finally concludes that he can buy the cheapest diesel oil (CJ-4 rating) that he can find and still keep on racking up the miles .... hey, he has the miles to have the opinion and I don't dispute his feelings."


 This comparison is invalid.  You cannot accurately compare oil tests done in other differently designed engines with the Suzuki engine, anymore than you can compare tests done between an old Ford design with a newer Honda.  For example, using the same oil and interval changes, the total accumulated mileage on a Honda car engine will be dramatically different than what you will get on an differently designed Ford engine.  The Yamaha FJR 4 cylinder engine is nothing like the Suzuki Savage 1 cylinder engine.

Quote from site member  Serenity3743:

"I used SUZUKI dino MOTORCYCLE OIL, 10W40 in the winter and 20W50 in the summer.  Changed oil and filter religiously every 3,000 miles.  Never even looked at the cam chain and adjuster till I topped 50 THOUSAND MILES..  Don't know if it was blind luck, but I can't help thinking the frequency of oil changes contributed, as well as using the factory recommended oil.  I'm experimenting now with synthetics, however

Its your bike and your decision.  Do you want to be cheap and use a Diesel Oil that has not been long term tested in your Savage, or do you want to go with a known winner, a Motorcycle Oil recommended by the engineers who designed and built your bike?

I stand corrected. I overlooked the "MA." Mea culpa.

  Thats a Shell forum

I vote we let Bill alone. His mind is made up - Klotz is the only acceptable oil for him. Nothing we say is going to change his mind.